Redoing Staircase: carpet to painted wood

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Old 03-29-17, 11:02 AM
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Redoing Staircase: carpet to painted wood

So I am wanting to redo my staircase by removing the terribly old carpetting and then just painting and sealing the treads black and using beadboard for the risers - then a carpet runner stapled to each tread but not the risers (To avoid slipping)

I unfortunately do not have the budget to be able to afford new treads or even make new ones myself.

So I am looking for a way to make my existing treads work for me.

My issue is this: I've run into a bit of a problem where there is a decently sized gab between one side of my treads and the stair banister (The otherside is fairly flush.) It seems the original builders just stuck drywall between the tread and the staircase and even attemted to shape the drywall to make it look like an extention of the bullnose.

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So I was thinking of trying to use quarter round trim up the sides of the risers and down the side of the tread to cover the gap?
But as far as how to extend the bullnose and not just have a weird gap beween the trim...wood putty maybe?

I've has some suggest filling the gaps with wood and silicon caulk. Others have told me to just give up and recarpet (which would look terrible...3 different carpets - yuck)

Anyone have any creative ideas? It's all getting painted anyway...just need to make it look normal.
 
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Old 03-29-17, 11:38 AM
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Usually there a side skirt installed over the sides of the risers that would cover the gap to the treads and risers, then new wood added to the treads and risers.

Going to be tough to get all those nails/nail holes resolved as they exist.
 
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Old 03-29-17, 01:29 PM
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I agree it's going to be a pain to cover everything, but I bought like 8 gallons of water+wood filler - so hopefully after I yank out every staple, tacking strip, and hammer in (or remove and replace) any uneven nails - I will sand the hell out of it and then basically just be pouring that wood filler on each tread and riser...after it dries I'll sand some more. According to other DIYers this will even put the surface.

I'm really just looking to make this work - no matter how much physical labor is involved. I would obviously trim both sides to make it even, but it's figuring out a way to connect the trim around the bullnose of the treads that I'm stuck on. The treads themselves and the existing risers aren't in deplorable shape and I'm really not keen on recarpetting.
 
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Old 03-29-17, 02:01 PM
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It would be a bit of work but you could either cut up an old tread or make a bullnose piece of wood to slip in the gap at the front, held in place with glue. The quarter round would take care of the rest.

Not sure what wood filler you bought but I wouldn't apply it any thicker than needed. IMO it works best if you just tightly skim over the wood and then sand it all off except for the voids.
 
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Old 03-29-17, 04:01 PM
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What was there before as the unpainted area had something on it.

Wood filler will do nothing for you it will crack out the first time you walk on the stairs. I would chunk out some more of the drywall and get some 1"x3"x1/2" stock and stair step it all the way down set just below the tread level and behind the bullnose so you can caulk it tight and paint. On the other side, a nice bead of caulk and paint.
 
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Old 03-30-17, 03:43 AM
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I assumed the filler was only to be used in the holes and gouges ??
 
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Old 03-30-17, 03:50 AM
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8 gallons of it??? That's a bunch of nail holes and gouges
 
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Old 04-02-17, 08:28 AM
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Could you explain your idea a bit further? By "stock" I assume you mean stock trim and by "chuck out more drywall" are you meaning remove the drywall and fill the gaps with stock trim or are you suggesting to add in more dry wall and cover the top of the gap even with the tread with the stock trim and then caulk both sides to seal it tight and paint?
 
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Old 04-02-17, 04:30 PM
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Remove more drywall so that when you place your trim it is slightly below the current tread and riser depth. That way you can caulk the seam along the tread and risers for a more finished look. Find standard 1/2" thick stock that has the edges slightly rounded over. Visit a lumber yard for choices as the box stores may not have what you need.
 
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