Ceiling storage in Garage beams 2x4 trusses HELP
#1
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Ceiling storage in Garage beams 2x4 trusses HELP
Hello everyone
I'm trying to add ceiling storage to my garage. I purchased a Newage ceiling rack 4ftx8ft and after reading the instructions have some concerns. The instructions state that the mounting brackets must be lag bolted to ceiling beams and further states that if the house has engineered beams that I would need to install a 2x8 cross beam in between the engineered beams.
When I went into the attic space where I'm looking to install the rack, I found that the beams are 2x4's. They are not engineered beams like the rest of my house. I'm attaching pictures as I have no idea if these beams can handle the load of a ceiling rack. Please help. The beam length is 10ft long and 24" on center.
Thanks!! Jerry
I'm trying to add ceiling storage to my garage. I purchased a Newage ceiling rack 4ftx8ft and after reading the instructions have some concerns. The instructions state that the mounting brackets must be lag bolted to ceiling beams and further states that if the house has engineered beams that I would need to install a 2x8 cross beam in between the engineered beams.
When I went into the attic space where I'm looking to install the rack, I found that the beams are 2x4's. They are not engineered beams like the rest of my house. I'm attaching pictures as I have no idea if these beams can handle the load of a ceiling rack. Please help. The beam length is 10ft long and 24" on center.
Thanks!! Jerry
#2
There are no "beams" in your photo, only trusses. Most trusses have bottom chords that are made to handle about 10 lbs of live load per square foot. Live load is what it can safely handle in addition to the weight of the drywall, roof, wind load, snow load, shear, etc... that is already placed on it. So since a 4x8 area is 32 Sq ft, (if the live load is 10 lbs psf) as long as you do not place more than 320 lbs on your storage rack, and that weight is distributed evenly, it can safely handle it. If you overload it, you could have problems.
The truss mfg or another structural engineer are the only ones that can tell you for sure what a safe load would be on those trusses. Could be 7 lb live load... could be 10 lb... no way of us knowing for sure.
The truss mfg or another structural engineer are the only ones that can tell you for sure what a safe load would be on those trusses. Could be 7 lb live load... could be 10 lb... no way of us knowing for sure.
#3
I agree with Sleeper that you should be OK with some weight hanging from the trusses. As he said distribute the weight evenly, and do not step on the shelf. Ensure the bolts are not overtightened and don't drill too large of a pilot hole.
The engineered joists the manufacturer refers to look like the picture below. You don't have engineered joists, but I want to point out that the shelf system cannot be attached directly to engineered joists.
The engineered joists the manufacturer refers to look like the picture below. You don't have engineered joists, but I want to point out that the shelf system cannot be attached directly to engineered joists.
#4
Yes, that's probably why they suggest the perpendicular 2x8 blocking. When you say the mounting bracket must be lag bolted, that would be a concern if the holes for the lag bolts are too big. What size lags?
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That's what gets me. The whole house is made with the engineered joists as you have pictured so I was shocked when I looked in that small attic space and saw 2x4's...
The lag bolts are 3" by 3/8.
Should I bolt 2x10's across the 2x4's? Would that strengthen the beams? Meaning, would that distribute the weight across all of the 2x4's rather than just using lag bolts on one 2x4??
Thanks for the help!
The lag bolts are 3" by 3/8.
Should I bolt 2x10's across the 2x4's? Would that strengthen the beams? Meaning, would that distribute the weight across all of the 2x4's rather than just using lag bolts on one 2x4??
Thanks for the help!
#6
Engineered joists are generally for floors, sometimes rafters, while trusses are commonly 2x4s and are engineered for ceiling joists and roofs. Nothing inferior about it, it's just the method of construction used. Their strength comes from their design. Adding a 2x10 wouldn't do much more than add the weight of a 2x10.
Dont know how your bracket works, but your trusses will do the best job if you install the 4x8 rack perpendicularly (across 4 trusses in the 8' direction) rather than parallel to the trusses (where it would only be mounted to 3, if it's 4' wide).
Can't see your bracket of your instructions so we are just guessing.
Dont know how your bracket works, but your trusses will do the best job if you install the 4x8 rack perpendicularly (across 4 trusses in the 8' direction) rather than parallel to the trusses (where it would only be mounted to 3, if it's 4' wide).
Can't see your bracket of your instructions so we are just guessing.
#7
You're OK if you just install the brackets as instructed. It's better to attach the brackets perpendicular to the trusses as said.
The only thing I would advise is find the center of the truss lower member using a nail or a small drill bit, after using a stud finder.
The only thing I would advise is find the center of the truss lower member using a nail or a small drill bit, after using a stud finder.