Raising a vanity top
#1
12-26-17, 11:51 AM
Raising a vanity top
Hi All, I need suggestions on raising a counter top without raising the whole vanity,I have to go up approx. 5” once the old top is removed.
Geo
Geo
#3
12-26-17, 01:04 PM
I am putting a new granite top on the existing cabinet which is currently 29” H , I want the finish top to be approx. 35 1/2” so I need a spacer the will fit on top of the finished edge of the cabinet 5” or so.
Geo
Geo
#4
12-26-17, 01:19 PM
Group Moderator
A 5" spacer between the cabinet and the granite is going to look a little strange. Needs to be fairly strong to hold the granite up and fully supported. Plus there is a sink involved too ?
#5
12-26-17, 01:34 PM
Member
#1, Why does it need to be higher?
May sound rude, but I can not imagine adding a high dollar granite top to those low end cabinets.
If I had to do it I'd be removing the counter top and the whole Vanity and adding onto the bottom of the vanity, not the top.
That way it could be cover up with a new kick plate or baseboard.
May sound rude, but I can not imagine adding a high dollar granite top to those low end cabinets.
If I had to do it I'd be removing the counter top and the whole Vanity and adding onto the bottom of the vanity, not the top.
That way it could be cover up with a new kick plate or baseboard.
#6
12-26-17, 02:23 PM
Group Moderator
I have to do this same exact thing for a customer next month. She is tall, geting older, and is tired of bending over so far on a short vanity and they don't want to replace the old one.
I would build a 5" thick box to fit on top of the existing one... use pocket screws to connect the two around the inside perimeter while the top is off. Add false fronts onto the front of it to match the reveals of the drawers. And hopefully your sides are not exposed, because if they are you will need to add a veneer to the sides to cover up the seam between your existing cabinet and the side of the new box. That won't look very good unless you skin the whole side panel to make it look like it's one piece.
I would build a 5" thick box to fit on top of the existing one... use pocket screws to connect the two around the inside perimeter while the top is off. Add false fronts onto the front of it to match the reveals of the drawers. And hopefully your sides are not exposed, because if they are you will need to add a veneer to the sides to cover up the seam between your existing cabinet and the side of the new box. That won't look very good unless you skin the whole side panel to make it look like it's one piece.
#7
12-26-17, 03:39 PM
Well if you were 6’6 , after awhile you get tired using a 30”H vanity,I understand the quality of the cabinets,I have plumbing ,drains etc that I was hoping not to disturb but I guess that’s the only option,other wise it will look like a hack job.
Thanks anyway
Geo
Thanks anyway
Geo
#8
12-26-17, 04:31 PM
Member
I'm with Joe on this one. In spite of what X explained that he needs to do for a customer, it seems more expensive than a new vanity. So long as the sink stays in the same vertical plane all the plumbing will only need to be raised with tail pieces for drain and longer supply lines.
#9
12-27-17, 05:55 AM
Norm, to much plumbing involved, drain runs through all the cabinets and then down the wall on the right side of the cabinets,raising everything up is the easiest,also my next idea is to install new 30” doors and a new filler piece above.
When it’s complete I’ll post a pic of the finish product ,but not until Feb. some time.
Geo
When it’s complete I’ll post a pic of the finish product ,but not until Feb. some time.
Geo
#10
12-27-17, 06:33 AM
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I understand what you want, it's called an adult height vanity. A couple of thoughts:
The cuts are more complicated but you could make the extra 5" stick out at the front at a slight angle. Making the extension at an angle might make it look like it was original or planned.
Of course a standard top would not fit, it would need to be fabricated to size.
Another idea is to use your existing doors and drawers and just build a new, taller face frame. It looks like you could have standard 1/2" overlay instead of the euro look. It's fairly easy to build a face frame if you have a Kreg jig.
The cuts are more complicated but you could make the extra 5" stick out at the front at a slight angle. Making the extension at an angle might make it look like it was original or planned.
Of course a standard top would not fit, it would need to be fabricated to size.
Another idea is to use your existing doors and drawers and just build a new, taller face frame. It looks like you could have standard 1/2" overlay instead of the euro look. It's fairly easy to build a face frame if you have a Kreg jig.
