lazy susan nightmare


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Old 04-25-18, 06:23 PM
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lazy susan nightmare

I'm doing a kitchen for my daughter. It's a very small kitchen (maybe 10 x 12)
Got the floor down and the wall cabinets hung no prob.
The base is another story
The lazy susan cabinets they bought are the 'frameless' type. Looking at it from the top, it looks like a pie with a piece cut out. I have never done these and so far, not making out very good.

To complicate matters further ,each lazy susan is not attached to anything on one side(stove on one end of kitchen, dishwasher on the other side lazy susan.
I know I have to brace it. The counter tops will be Quartz.

I assume these need to go in last ? (since there is nothing to attach them to either except the one adjoining cabinet, which isn't installed yet.

My problem is I cannot for the life of me get the darn thing BOTH level all the way across the top front face to the cleat on the wall AND plumb.
If I get the face that will attached to the one cabinet next to it plumb (so I can pull it tight to that cabinet, it's not level when I check from the top of the front face to the cleat on the wall behind that will support the countertop.
If I fix that, then the side that needs to mate to the neighboring cabinet is not plumb.

The problem appears to possibly be with the top face of that 'v' opening on the cabinet. It seems actually higher at the tip, than it is out a the edge (as in the wide part of the piece of pie).

I openly admit I have never installed this type of a lazy susan. When I did my own kitchen about 5 years ago (which is about 3 times this size, I also installed several lazy susans, but they actually had a cabinet frame around them.

Any tips are appreciated.

Is it possible that I have a 'bad' cabinet and no matter what I try, it's just not going to get both plumb and level?

Thx in advance
 
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Old 04-25-18, 07:37 PM
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On the lazy susan, you should have ordered some side panels if you knew nothing would be going on either side. You will need to make done out of plywood. Cut them out of any kind of 3/4 plywood and make them the same size as the sides of your other base cabinets. They do not need to be stained or finished, no one will see them after they are installed. Cut the shape of the toe kick out, just like the base cabinets are. You can pocket screw (1 1/4" screws) the plywood sides to the back of your face frame on each side. You can add a 2x2 onto the back bottom edge of each side panel so that you can screw them to the floor from behind... or use pocket screws and screw them to the floor from the dishwasher/stove side. (Easier to get to)

Once you are sure the face frame is in line with the rest of the base cabinets and it is sitting square (very important) the fasten it to the floor. You can the add a 2x4 to the back wall that is level with the top of the rest of the base cabinets. In view of the countertop, you might also want to add additional framing to box in the perimeter of the lazy susan and add more surface area to the top edges of your side panels so they have something more to glue to.

Some installers will identify the high spot on the floor first before they even start, then measure up from there and snap a level line (or use a laser level) on the wall (back edge of base cabinets) before they start to help with aligning the base cabinets and make shimming easier.
 
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Old 04-27-18, 08:12 AM
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HI,
thanks for the reply. I do have high spot identified via a laser level. I cannot fasten anything to the floor as it's new porcelain tile, wall to wall. So now nailing/screwing to floor is possible. I'm not sure I can really use a construction adhesive either, but for now I digress on the fastening part. I understand what you're thinking and was kind of headed in that direction anyway.
not sure why no sides were ordered , but I can make em up

This is very small kitchen. If I am standing in the middle of the room, facing where the sink base goes and go around the room clockwise from L to R the layout is:


24 base cab
30 in oven
36 corner lazy susan #1
5 in filler
39 in sink base (should be centered under window according to plans)
9 in base cab
2 in filler
36 in corner lazy susan #2
dishwasher 24 in
15 in base cab (this is the high point)

that's it. (except for the usual ... old house, corners not square, walls not plumb etc etc, which I fully expected

So I'm thinking I need to start with the sink base centered under the window and
work out to the susans at each corner, essentially placing the susan's LAST.
Then align them properly so the faces as properly plumb and they meet the
adjoining cabinets on that wall where the window is.
After that I have the break on each opposite wall (L and R with the stove and dishwasher)
Then, the 24 and 15 in base cabs on the ends.

Does sound reasonable?

Assuming so, that still leaves me with the issues I am having with these lazy susans in getting them both level and plumb. I have only tried one and am going to try the other.
But as I said in my prior post, when I get it level, it's way out of plumb (like 1/4" from bottom of cabinet face, just above toe kick to the top of the face.

When I have the sides plumb, Running a level across from the cleat I have on the wall for countertop to the 'tip' of the inverted 'V' ie. the corner ^ it's level, but then it drops away as I head out to the edges of the cabinet face where I need to mate it to the adjoining cabinet. I can't have it this way because that high point will snap the counter top , right?

If I then level the susan so that it's level all the way across the top face frame out to the cleat, then my plumb is way off (which I also can't have as the faces of the two cabinets won't mate then.

So i'm kind of screwed here either way. I don't think I'm missing anything or doing something incorrect.

Sorry for the lengthy reply

Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated?
 
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Old 04-28-18, 10:14 AM
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When you attach the sides (same size as other base cabinet sides) to the back side of the lazy Susan Susan face frame, it will help plumb and level it. Your error could be from a crappy level or user error. I don't know why else you would be having a problem. Clamp and screw base cabinet face frames together with finish screws before you screw them back to the wall tight.

You need good levels to set cabinets. I use a 24" and a 78" usually. And your laser needs to be good, some crappy ones have poor tolerances like 1/4" in 25'. That's garbage. And a torpedo level has no place setting cabinets.

I would suggest if your laser level can be placed on the wall or on the corner bead somewhere, leave it set up as you install. Snap a chalk line on the back walls before you begin (to align the back of the base cabinets) and use the laser to help you double check if the fronts are too high or too low. It's not uncommon for a wall to be out of plumb so you may need to shim the back of a cabinet away from the wall rather than screwing it back tight. If the wall is out of plumb and you screw the base cabinet back tight it will raise the front off the floor and now the cabinet is no longer level or plumb.
 
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Old 04-30-18, 05:58 PM
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Thanks for the replies.
I have 3 levels and 2 laser levels. All read the same. It's the cabinets. COnfirmed it when the sink base was the same (higher in middle than at the edges .... and significantly (at least to me
Anyway, I appreciate the input. Took your suggestions on the sides. We did get the cabinets all installed/plumb at the faces and level as best we could seeing that the sink base and both lazy susans were about an 1/8+ inch higher in the middle
 
 

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