Oak finishing help.


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Old 01-28-19, 08:48 PM
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Oak finishing help.

Good evening, so I was tasked at building a trestle style dining room table and bench. Easy task for the most part. I drew up plans from all aspects formed a cut list all I needed was to buy materials measure twice cut once... Nothing goes as planned!
the top was to be made of red oak (I'll attach photos) at first not having the proper tools I was at the mercy of precut lumber, no way to true or join edges to be glued and pressed together. I over came that obstacle however. The table was to be built 84"L x 43"W. I priced material and became dislexic. The table painstakingly was built at 74"L x 43"W. It wasn't until after the hand planing, 80 grit dry and damp sand that I realized my mistake.

The question I have is, needing to build a new top, with learned mistakes and more capable tools it's hard to find lumber wide enough to minimize amount of gluing clamping and joints to square and true plus framing and squaring...ugh! I'd like to use 1"x12" but that's impossible to find and 1"x6" will do the job just twice as many boards. However there is oak 3/4" plywood in sheets of 4'x8' this would save hundreds and hours of time but would it finish and stain as nice as the solid lumber even if I framed it with solid oak lumber? I've attaceatpicyure you can see the end goal... I've just never thought of staining plywood kind of makes me cringe any input with result pictures would be greatly appreciated!... Pictures are not load darn technology. Anyone have success staining oak plywood with the same gorgeous results as true lumber?
 
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Old 01-28-19, 09:01 PM
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Oak plywood stains up just like oak... and as long as you look the sheet over for imperfections, dents, drag marks, etc... before you buy it... and don't scratch it during transport... and don't set your can of Coke on it and spill it, and be sure you wipe any wood glue you use off of it... you will be fine. It does not lay perfectly flat, however... oak fiber core will be flatter than plywood, so look for that. It looks like mdf in the middle, veneered on both sides. Then you need to be sure you don't sand thru the veneer if you band the edges with solid wood.

You will also know the frustration of cross cutting plywood. You need to cleanly score it with a knife and square to cut it down to 84"... and use a fine finish skilsaw (60 tooth carbide) and a guide as you cut... then stay 1/32" on the waste side of the line you scored with a knife so that it doesn't chip... clean and square that edge up to your scored line carefully with a belt sander.

If you use oak veneer fibercore or plywood, I would not recommend you use any 80 grit this time around... stick with 120 and 150.
 
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Old 01-29-19, 12:17 AM
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I'd like to use 1"x12" but that's impossible to find
Make some calls to a "real" lumber yard and inquire what is available, it may not be on the rack but they can get anything.

There are alternatives to the limited supplier that the big box stores provide!

Using plywood material creates other issues, now you have to deal with edges to finish!

Just something to consider!
 
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Old 01-29-19, 04:40 AM
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IMO the edges aren't a big deal, you can either use oak 'tape' which irons or glues on the edge or tack/glue a thin strip of oak to the edge of the plywood. I normally do the latter. While I prefer solid wood, there are times where plywood makes good sense.

btw - welcome to the forums!
 
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Old 01-29-19, 05:09 AM
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Thank you.

So currently I cannot get the pictures of smaller top to be posted. However, it is solid oak lumber 6 1"x 6" cut to size joined and edge glued baned with 1"x 3" oak mitered like a picture frame. Someone requested this table after buying a piece I built last year. I am not sold on going the plywood route it seems cheap and kind of cheating. Not a big fan of big box stores lumber it seems poorly milled and over priced... Gotta find a good mill
 
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Old 01-29-19, 05:23 AM
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Here are instructions for posting pics - https://www.doityourself.com/forum/e...-pictures.html
 
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Old 01-29-19, 05:25 AM
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Plus the reason you don't use wide boards is that they tend to cup with age, and wider boards will end check as they age due to expansion and contraction.

That's why boards are glued up from much smaller boards in the first place. The way I have done it is to glue up 12" boards from smaller ones, then run that glued up board through a thickness planer. Once you have your glued up 1x12s then you fasten them together with biscuit joinery... clamping pairs together... then clamp one pair to the next, and so on. Bar clamps are a must. Then you carefully sand the joints to avoid making any dips or depressions.
 
 

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