DIY home owner , first time attempting crown molding
I have a octagon Tray ceiling with inside corners greater than 90 degrees.
I measured the angle Starrett ProSite Miter Saw Protractor. It described a miter cut of 23 degress. ( verified 134 angle). Used "Bench dog" crown molding jig and a Hitachi miter saw.
I cut the molding, "upside down and backwards" according to instructions ( and utube).
When I placed them on the ceiling corner ( test molding), there is a gap. What am I doing wrong ? I am at a loss..
Is there step that I am missing. I dont think is my miter saw, seems to cut perfect 46, 90 deg angles).
Please direct me in the right direction. Thank you.
Ed Bonti
I measured to be miter cut of 23 deg (136 deg) When I mitered ( upside down and backwards) to 23 deg, there is a gap as pictured.
You probably are not holding it on the saw at the same spring angle as you are on the wall. From the looks of it, both pieces on the wall need to move up 3/16" or so. That will close the gap.
And generally you should be making test pieces for your corners.. 1x4s or similar to test your miters. Lay the short pieces of 1x4 flat, cut your 23s... put them together, hold them up, see how they look. If you need to adjust the angle, figure it out on the 1x4 first. Its cheaper than crown. So your angles could still be wrong if you haven't tested them that way.
And I will often make a 16" long block from 1x4 that is the exact height of the rise of the crown, and i use that as a fence behind every piece of crown i cut. Kind of like a crown stop on the base of the saw, but on the fence instead. That ensures I'm holding each piece at the right spring angle as I cut it, as long as the crown and my block are flush with one another when I cut.
You also need to remember that the corner tape on the drywall affects the measurement. So, if your crown has a 3" rise, you might need to mark the wall at 2 7/8" because the ceiling-wall corners aren't perfectly square.
Not necessarily. Unless you have checked your angles with some 1x4, the angles on the crown could be wrong. Your little protractor is laying on the mud that is built up on that 135 degree corner. If your 1x4 test pieces are longer, say 2-4 ft long... it will give you a better idea of how the crown will fit. You make the cut on the 1x4 with it laying flat on the saw, then when you hold them on the wall, the 3/4" side of the 1x4 is against the wall. If the miter on the 1x4s doesn't look right, you need to dial in the angle a little better. It should be 22.5 if all things were framed perfectly.
xsleeper. I went back and measured my riser more carefully. It read 3 7/8. ( I had 4 in. before). I adjusted, per your suggestion, 1/16 because of mud imperfections. I just moved projection line ( riser line) up about 1/4" and it shows almost perfect, but good enough for me. Thank you for your guidance.
Hey Gang... I started working on what I thought was going to be a very easy job that has left me scratching my head. I'm hoping on some advice. I'm handy but I am [u]no carpenter[/u] by any means.
OK, I'm currently finishing half of my basement. In the utility room I left the original concrete slab. The other side I'm finishing I had dry-packed, over which I put down 12x24" rectified edge porcelain ...tile over a Ditra heat system. It turned out great.
I was left with a finished tile floor that's 1" higher than the original slab at two doorways. My plan was to build a simple wood transition ramp from a 1x8 that I could finish and fasten to the slab with PL.... This room is functional and doesn't need to look pretty.
I ran the board through a planer until I got nice clean 1" x 7-1/2" (true size boards)
Having used sleds before... Since this is a one off job... in this case I fastened a 1x2 under and along one side of the board. I believed that I could run this through the planer and I would be able to shave off material until I was left with a nice tapered transition. What I experienced instead was that the planer forced down the higher side of the board, flattening it out and fighting against the taper.
I've seen many a tapered transition out there and figured this was the way to do it. I'm hoping someone might be able to provide me with a straightforward way to achieve what I thought would be a simple taper....
Maybe I need to ditch the planer and approach this in a different way altogether?
Or perhaps I'm missing something altogether? I've done a lot of big reno's... One thing I. know for sure is that there's a lot I don't know :)
Here are a few pics of what I'm dealing with.
Thanks all.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/1_845a93fcdabcc1d51834b9b7e8c8770c49f47562.jpg[/img]
[i]Here is the transition[/i]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/2_534f6c6c6a553e82cc55b655649477ad152abfb2.jpg[/img]
[i]I fastened 1" x 1/8" flat bar steel against the face of the transition to protect the tile from chipping[/i]
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/3_7a55cea94eb4f339519ef7775fc471f25f359f9c.jpg[/img]
[i]Fail[/i]
Hi and thanks in advance for your advice...
I am planning out my new baseboards and window and door casings.
I have 8 foot tall ceilings. What would be the best dimensions for the wood trim around the base, doors and windows.
I bought a few pine 1X6s for the base to preview, but they look kind of tall. Was thinking of 1x6 base and 1x4 to frame the windows and doors..
Trying to decide before I get started staining.
Thanks for your advice.
I'll attach a picture of the trial 1x6 base.
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1199x900/baseboard_1x6_c96c76eb3777cb98f7ed0fc35cff77ea7dc8ee10.jpg[/img]
[i]This shows 1x6 i am thinking about as a base. would a 1x6 base look too tall against an 8 foot ceiling?[/i]
12-21-20, 07:21 AM
