I am installing a new newel post, rail, and balusters. In my layout I tried both a two and three balusters arrangement per tread as typically calculated. My problem is that with the two baluster layout I exceed the 4 inch maximum code spacing at either end, with the three baluster layout per
tread I come too close to the wall to paint in the future. What would be the correct solution to my problem. I attached a sketch with three options. Thanks for the help!!!
Option B... 3 ballusters per. If you would have chosen wider ballusters you could do 2 per. Painting is not an issue you can always cut in behind with a brush.
Thanks for your help XSleeper. I am going with Option 'B', I laid out a few of the balusters temporarily and it looks great. I appreciate you help and experience.
Got a question XSleeper. I am going with option B, Would you shift the set of baluster to the right to even out the space at the wall and at the newel post? This would cause the lead baluster on each step to fall out on the nosing and not in line with the riser below.
No. You might shift it slightly toward the newel, but not to even the space at the wall, and not if it makes every 3rd balluster fall fully on the nosing. They really should not extend beyond the face of the riser. At a maximum, it could extend 1/4" past the riser so as to be centered on the face of the riser, but more than that will look odd. Personally I prefer the way it is depicted in plan B where it is exactly lined up with the face of the riser.
Thanks XSleeper I was thinging the same, it might look odd extending into the nosing especially to a stair pro. 99% of the people wouldn't notice, but it would really upset me if someone like yourself walked in and said aren't those forward balusters slightly forward of the risers (LOL). Thank you for your keen insight, it is much appreciated.
Hi. My wife got rustic black iron pulls for our kitchen cabinets and I installed them in the center of doors instead of the corner. Do people do it this way? I just heard you are suppose to put in corners and i think they look good in center but she is telling me now that’s not the way it should be.
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1st the question. I'm recalibrating my radial arm saw and putting on a new cutting surface. In the past I always used contact cement and it works well. But is there any other method to attach the cutting surface to the table top? I have absolutely no other use for a can of contact cement. It's expensive and does not have a long shelf life. I'm using luan subflooring for the cutting surface. And would there be any advantage to doubling up on it?
EDIT...BTW the table top is particle board.
This should go into another section but since it was part of the job of getting the luan I'll just attach it here. Why can't car designers and engineers use the their heads or has their knowledge been drained by the advertising and marketing people? I have an SUV. A big Chevy TRAVISTY. The interior can easily fit a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. BUT the hatch opening cannot! What's up with that. Just another reason why I'm sorry I bought that car.
01-26-21, 11:12 AM
