Shoe rack build how to configure box's.


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Old 01-05-22, 03:38 PM
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Shoe rack build how to configure box's.

I am making a shoe rack with seat on top.
See attached drawing for what I am doing.
(drawing not to scale, not even close[img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img])
The 1/2in and 5/8in ply is what I have on hand, the 5/8in mdf I will be getting.
Where I am putting the 1/2in ply for partitions is where I am confused.
If I make the bottom row and attach the the sides and partitions to the top and bottom mdf piece.
How to build the next row?
I can't nail from the underside of the bottom row into the partition piece.
I will be gluing and brad nailing.
 
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Old 01-05-22, 04:07 PM
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I'd suggest you build 3 rows of boxes and then simply stack them one on top of the other. I'd also suggest you use 3/4 mdf throughout.
 
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Old 01-05-22, 06:51 PM
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yea thought of that, but then stacking would double the thickness where stacked.
If using 3/4in then stacked would be 1..5in.
Why 3.75in throughout?
 
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Old 01-05-22, 07:02 PM
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3/4", not 3.75". Because anything thinner is going to split and/or you are going to have brad nails shooting out the sides, even if you are careful.

What's the big deal if its doubled in the middles? If you don't want to build seperate boxes, you could change the layout of the middle section so that the verticals in the middle section are offset, rather than looking like a bunch of cubes.

And it's going to need a back on it, or some blocking that attaches it to the wall.
 
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Old 01-06-22, 05:07 AM
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You are really constrained by using the materials you have chosen. About the only ways you can attach the vertical 1/2" dividers is to shoot brads in at a 90į through the top and bottom. It's not a strong attachment but it can do. The other option is to install blocks or quarter round on either side of the joint.

If I were building this I would use thicker material like full 1" and route slots in the horizontals to slide the verticals into. That would allow a lot more area for glue contact and the verticals would be physically captured in the slots.
 
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Old 01-06-22, 06:15 AM
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Similar to PD, make the perimeter and maybe the center all thicker wood to structurally support then make egg crate dividers to fit inside.

Actually I have similar but it's a low bench with two shelves only, no dividers.


 
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Old 01-06-22, 04:57 PM
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Xsleeper, I just may using this method. It will be strong for sure since I am not using a back. (3.75in typo)

Pilot Dane, I may also use this method. using 1/8in dadoes to locate and give more surface for glue. Then use quarter round to secure.

Marg1, like this method but bit beyond my level for the size that I am building.

PS: there is no way to brad nail it from top and bottom anyways. The opening height will be approx. 7in.
 
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Old 01-06-22, 07:09 PM
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If you are not using a back it will not be strong... I highly recommend you put some blocking in at least 2 or 3 of the top boxes so that you can screw it to the wall and hit a stud. When someone sits on it, it's possible that it could rack diagonally and collapse without something to prevent it from getting out of square.
 
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Old 01-06-22, 08:19 PM
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I didn't mention that for sure it will be secured to the wall.
I may just put a back on in case it ever needs to come out.
Usually everything I build is over built. (heavy)
 
 

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