I have three of these iron shelf supports that support 75 lbs each when attached to studs per manufacturer.
Now that I have everything marked out I'm not 100% sure where to place the supports. Right now I am thinking put one in the left corner because there seems to be a 2x4 there. And then just place one more on the far right, both spots marked in red. The blue horizontal tape represents what I am thinking in terms of the shelf height and location. So it will run from the left corner and then stop flush with the far edge of the gray vertical divider I have on the floor.
I'm terrified to drill through this tile. I guess in hind sight I could have drilled some test holes before tiling just to confirm. I did use a stud finder before the tile and marked those with tape on the crown molding. My magnetic stud finder did not work through the tile but my electronic stud finder, while not perfect, confirmed the marks above after checking 100 times. The pictures may look a little weird because of the wide lens.
Anyhow, does that make sense to just use two brackets as marked? Thx
Many times the stud locations can be confirmed from the other side.
Here's the problem with the corner.... yes.... there is stud in the corner but it's typically there as a nailer. There may not be a full studs width to mount to.
That means you may need to put the bracket tight to the corner and drill slightly on an angle towards the corner.
I would put my top holes in the tile joint. If a mistake is made it could be fixed.
Unfortunately you have three brackets where four would look more uniform.....
and they're black which makes them stand out.
Looking again.... I may lean towards putting the three brackets out on the wall and get something different for the wall end.
Ug. I need to think about this more. Fortunately I can drill into the wall and transfer up to confirm which is good.
I hear you about maybe not having enough room in the corner. 4 brackets would look more symmetrical than 3 for sure. But if I’m doing 4 I can probably just do two to reduce the risk of messing on of them up. I guess I can drill a few very small feet holes near the corner behind the dryer to see how much room I have to work with. I’ve been dragging this remodel out for a good year now and hit a new snag every step I take.
sayluv You can fasten your brackets wherever you like... but what you might not know is that subway tile stacks so tight that the rows practically touch each other. So its not easier to go into the grout lines at all. You still need to drill a hole if you intend to fasten into a grout line.
I still haven't done anything but I drilled a few test holes in the corner and with the width of this bracket it looks like I have just enough room to hit a stud/wood in the corner if I want to go that rout.
So maybe an alternative mounting scheme could be considered.
Attach a horizontal board across the tile so that screws hit the various studs with bracket screws installed from the back side facing forward, That way you can install the brackets where you want them independent of the wall studs!
I've been putting off drilling through this laundry room tile for way too long. I will need to drill one hole through the grout which will be my first hole, then I will drill through the tile for my second vertical hole once I know I hit the stud.
This is on our second floor and then there is an attic above. I have been in the attic before doing work to replace our bathroom fans. This was a few years ago but I'm pretty positive the outlets from the bathrooms etc are run up to the attic for some reason.
This is my concern when drilling here. Attached to the stud I need to drill into there is the dryer 220 volt way below. But on the other side of the wall is our son's bedroom and there is an outlet attached to that stud as well. I have used my stud sensor with electrical detection and it shows that there is power running up the wall into the attic.
My questions is, how are this wire(s) attached to the stud? I am assuming they use those giant staple things to attach them to the side and there are no safety mechanisms for me to avoid hitting them with the drill if I miss. I have used the stud detector 100 times and marked where I think the right and left edges are but I'm really stressing about drilling into this stud. I may just be overthinking it or maybe not. I really need to have one of the shelf brackets there or it's going to look dumb.
Anyhow, if I go through the grout and use a little bit and feel for the stud will this be safe to do? Thx
Your stud will typically be either to the right or left of that 220 box. You could take the plate cover off and look which side it's on. Move over 3/4" and plumb up to your spot to drill. The wire could be stapled or not. Either way you control how deep you drill. Once your thru the tile and drywall you stop drilling. That's like 7/8" deep. And your fasteners should be no more than 2" long, to avoid hitting wires.
Plumbing is usually in the middle of the bay, and electrical is generally attached to the sides of the stud, as long as your in the middle of the stud you could drill a 1" dia hole through it with no issue, but you have to know where that stud is!
Ok, very helpful tips and make a lot of sense. I'm just spooked because I installed a new light above our bathroom sink once and had to drill a new hole. Of course I hit a drain pipe coming from upstairs because I'm dumb. It was an easy fix for the plumber thankfully though will minor wall damage.
got the brackets installed without getting electrocuted! I just need to fab a shelf, get the tile floor installed, and paint the walls and this 1+ year rehab will be done!
Good morning everyone. I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas like I did.
My wife would like to have bookshelves built along an outside wall in my living room which is about 17 feet long. The room is heated by baseboard hot water and the wall where she would like the shelves is a heated wall. My question is how much will the room's heat be effected if that wall is under shelving? The other heated wall is about 14 feet long. And is there something that could be done to make it work other than moving the baseboard heat, which does not excite me at all? Also, we got down to 3 degrees overnight this past Friday so it does get cold here in SE Pa. Thank you very much and I hope you have a Happy New Year too!
When it comes to projects, angles are my kryptonite. :wall:
I'm currently building some 10in deep floating shelves out of 1.5" thick butcher block. As you'll see in the pics below, I have to do a bevel cut on one end at 52 degrees to match the pitch of the stairs. My miter saw will only tilt to 45 degrees. What's the best/safest way to do this, whether it be on the miter, a table saw, a circular saw, or something else?
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1280x960/shelf_1_3cea98ed3b37c0dc6fde7d57521b77a6260bc758.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1280x967/shelf_2_a811c60d519baddadb1203a3d6b3cf3933deae77.jpg[/img]