We have a kitchen cabinet that has separated from the wall and starting to come off. Just curious if you have any ideas on how to repair before I get into fixing it. I’ve never installed a kitchen cabinet before, but from what I can tell the piece of wood on the inside top is still attached to the wall (in the studs I think). But is the back of the cabinet like a thin piece of “wood” (I don’t know what to call it) that’s like stapled into the wood on the side of the cabinet? If that’s the case, how does this thing stay up? It really relies on those staples to hold the thing together? Doesn’t seem very strong to me.
I'd unload it *now* before it comes crashing down and someone gets hurt.
The top of the cabinet should have been stapled or nailed into the hanging rail (the thicker board at the inside top of the cabinet) by the manufacturer.
The best way to fix it is to take the cabinet down and restore the sides and back to their proper position, fastening them in place with staples or small nails. Then I would screw down through the top into the hanging rail. And I'd put a couple of finish nails through the sides into the ends of the hanging rail. Given the cabinet has already been compromised, I'd also add a couple of corner brace brackets screwed into the side of the cabinet and the hanging rail, right at the top of the cabinet.
Carbide has good advice. Because of the staples you probably can't just push the cabinet body back into position with the back. That box probably needs to come down so it's easier to work on. Some quality glue would help add some strength when reinstalling. I would also put some nails or screws vertically down through the top into the mounting strip.
Angle blocking or some steel angle brackets inside would also add a lot of strength. I'm assuming the cabinet box is particle board so it's not terribly strong on it's own so it's easy for fasteners to break free. Many fasteners (nails, screws) are better to spread the load out than putting in just a few larger fasteners.
Thanks for the advice guys…I worked on it yesterday and got through it ok. Took it down. Put a bunch of screws in it. shot it with the nail gun a bunch of times, reinstalled it back into the wall with longer screws, and put in two L-brackets in the top corners. One piece I thought was funny was the far right side. It looked like the three screws there were supposed to go into the stud, but they barely made it into the sheetrock. So I put in longer screws there too to hit the stud. I’ve obviously never done this before, but I still think the whole concept is a little odd that so much of the structure depends on this flimsy piece of “wood” on the back of the cabinet. I’m assuming better quality cabinets must have wood for the back piece? Anyway, thanks again. Here are some updated pics.
Should have been glued originally when it was put together. But probably wasn't, or it wouldn't have come apart. And glue (construction adhesive) would have been a real good idea when you reassembled it, so that it never happens again.
[color=#383a3b]Hi All,[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Looking for some assistance with attaching/routing wood veneer to a pantry cabinet. Here is the situation:[/color]
[color=#383a3b]- I am going to install a pantry cabinet, the left side is not flush
- [/color][color=#383a3b]Plan was to install wood veneer to make it flush so the granite will have a strait edge flush against the pantry rather than a squiggly cut
- [/color][color=#383a3b]The veneer is slightly thicker than 1/8" thick (0.140” on my caliper), but the gap is 1/4" deep. [/color][color=#383a3b] My plan was to use contact cement on both pieces and then route the edge smooth with my new Milwaukee portable router and flush bit. Two issues with this:[/color]
[color=#383a3b]1) The back of the cabinet (where I would rest the bearing of the bit) is not flush. I am thinking here to put double sided tape with an appropriate thickness wood to make it flush so I can have a good edge to rest the bearing - thoughts?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]2) Even with the veneer the cabinet will not be flush. I am thinking to get just regular unfinished veneer, then put the finished veneer on top - thoughts? [/color]
[color=#383a3b]Home Depot by me carries 1/8” (nominal) plywood but have to see what the actual thickness is in person. L[/color][color=#383a3b]ast thing I want to do is create the opposite problem (veneer sticking proud of the cabinet).[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Below are some pics to help frame the discussion. Thanks for your input![/color]
[b]Design with pantry in question on the right:[/b]
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1801x1273/design_veneer_d89ae92367085a65264c0c8d7264dcd28490b35e.jpg[/img]
[b]Here's the gap - goal is to even that so the granite sits flush:[/b]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_4500_e295746ff5ab63df7ac2a4fe59dfdcd5fb0eeabe.jpg[/img]
[b]This is the veneer panel. Measures 0.140" (slightly larger than 1/8")[/b]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_4497_1__d5661541d0311f9b3a34fc6a1f01080ce264e271.jpg[/img]
I need to install a filler above the dishwasher and very little room to screw it into the adjoining cabinet sides, was thinking about 3m tape or magnets, any helpful tips would be appreciated.
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_2971_dish1_d67f44b0de98a9e826fbcc7b2897c37deff658e4.jpg[/img]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/img_2972_dish2_8dafda5dfadd6e81cce013d0955f70ad121e684a.jpg[/img]
11-24-22, 04:53 PM
