The white baluster in the pic is damaged and needs replacing. I need to create the white baluster dimensions and re make it from the unfinished one. So I have to cut some off the square off the white one and attach it to the unfinished one. What is the best way to do this?
OK thanks. This makes sense. The white baluster already has a center hole, so I'm good with that one to start. But to get a center hole in the unfinished baluster...what is the best way? I figure that if I'm off by even a hare, without machinist's precision, they won't line up square when screwed together.
My current thinking goes like this: I start by drawing an X on the cut end, and drilling at the intersection? But if my drill bit isn't perfectly level....?
With a wood dowel I'd drill the hole a little oversized and rely on glue to take up the slop as you get it aligned, with a screw you'd have more leeway.
If you need the top part of the unfinished one to be the same as it is now, just cut it off a couple inches long. Then cut a section of the white one off. Glue the white section onto the cut end of the unfinished one. Then glue the part you cut off the top back on.
I get the impression straight cuts might be easier for you. Use a long clamp to clamp the pieces together.
Everything has worked out well, thanks for the tips. I did use a dowel plus glue with an oversize hole for easier line up.
I have another baluster repair to do, so speaking of glues I was using 2 part epoxy which is perhaps over kill, but, I ran out of it. I do however have a caulk tube of 2 part masonry repair epoxy, which appears to be a similar material.
Would there be any reason I can't use this this on wood repair?
Replacement would be best but if you need to reuse it, a small dowel and a lot of glue will put it back together. Be sure to take a damp rag and wipe off any excess glue so it won't interfere with the paint job.
If necessary smearing some joint compound over the dried glued up joint and then sanding when dry should make the repair disappear.
Good afternoon,
I am a reluctanat, as-needed DIY'er, so my experience is limited. I inherited this nightmare from the previous owners and have had very few contractors interested in helping me resolve these issues. There are two main issues.
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[*]The flat roof next to the pitched roof has caused an excessive amount of water to both roll off of the roof & to pool on top of the roof. I have had a variety of issues from the ceiling caving in to a recurrence of termites. My idea to correct this issue is to only have the slope in one direction (away from the flat roof), but I have had so much trouble finding a roofer who has a framer on staff or a carpenter to reframe the roof. The last roof pic shows the one-sided roof that I was hoping to achieve.
[*]The entire structure is a converted carport/garage. There seems to be quite a few issues with the structure. It's roughly 12" below the rest of my house & my deck out back, so it keeps getting flooded. I'm suspecting that the flooding is coming from standing water under the deck, but I have no guess as to how the termites are getting in. I have been treating the exterior walls (in the accessible parts of the yard & have not seen any tunnels). I have also drilled holes in the walls to spray pesticide inside the walls. Now, for the 2nd time, the termites have gotten to it.
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My questions:
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[*]Is the one-sided roof a good idea? If so, are there any other considerations that need to be taken into account if I go that route? None of the contractors have recommended gutters or anything else to account for the change in the flow of the water.
[*]Would it be a waste to get this structure elevated & then repair the termite damage? I have had some contractors recommend tear it down & rebuild, but I don't want to be without one of these rooms for months or a year (I really can't). Currently, the termite damage is the wall that the doors share & the room on the right.
[*]If the termites have eaten the wall and frame around the doors, is there a temporary solution for securing the doors? I had one contractor tell me that he could put in a 2x4, but I don't see what he would be nailing it n2. Even the header looks like it may have been compromised, so I have my doubts about what I'm being told. I don't want to be on the hook for demo to this guy & then be without both rooms for some reason. If it is possible, I would be willing to do so until I make a decision.
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Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm so overwhelmed!!!
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Hello,
I am currently in the final stages of renovating our condo and I have a question about replacement cabinet fronts. I have attached a number of pictures from my bathroom cabinets that are approximately 20 years old and you can see the plastic is peeling on many of the drawer faces and on the top of the cabinet doors (see attached pictures).
My question is how best to repair or replace these? Should I try and find pre-constructed ones that are painted white from the factory? Can this plastic be taken off then painted?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I have 2 bathrooms that both have this problem.
Thanks in advance!
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