Gloves for Paint, Solvents, Acids, etc

I am looking for an alternative or a tougher/reusable solution to the disposable gloves. They really must handle Solvents, Acids, corrosives and I would prefer that they go down to the elbow or further. I am tired of paying money for the gloves that simply tear and or become brittle after a single use.

I don't have much money but find myself using these gloves all the time. I wouldn't mind spending some money on these gloves if they will meet my needs and would be safe. I find that good tools save money when compared to the less expensive alternatives.

Any help?

 

Go to a real hardware store and discuss your needs with knowledgeable help.There are a variety of gloves for your needs made by a variety of companies and distributed by various hardware and paint companies.

At hardware stores what they carry is not all that is available to them and they can easily order anything they do not carry.I assume the same goes for paint stores.Ace,for example,which I have worked has in the warehouse far more than what is in most stores inventory and does handle chemical resistant heavy duty gloves.Ordering is free,the gloves would be added to an existing order for that store and come with the next delivery.

These types of gloves have various specific abilities and resistances so you need to talk to someone not just go to big box stores and grocery stores and buy what's in stock with no assistance.

 

Well they have to be impervious, and I would like them to last through many projects and many years. I wont be covering them in paint or anything, but would love them for when I am using heavy cleaning agents and other type work.

Unfortunately Loews and Home-depot not only don't have the knowledge for a product that is suitable for this, but also does not have the expertise in this area. They sell VERY caustic chemicals (acids and strippers), yet they have no other protection other then gloves and a full 3m Face mask. They have no understanding of what filters to buy for these face masks and generally only sell ones for Painting (6001 or 6022). I bought the 6003 for bleach and other harder chemicals, but the stripper odors tend to get through. The local store that specialize in Painting, Stripping, and Cleaning had the 6003 3m Filter in stock (but not the 6004). They had no clothing that would protect your skin from caustic splashes, and splash resistant protection is either the full face mask, the Ventilated Eye Protection, or the full 3M face Mask (over $150). 1/8th -> 1/4 water/bleach mixture will make your eyes burn.

I have had HORRIBLE luck with most stores. They generally give BAD and HARMFULL advice to people when dealing with these chemicals.

Examples: -- RANT --
- I have had situations where the individual suggest that I wear a paint protection suit for stripper and acids. If I was stupid enough to follow his advice any acid/solvent spilled would of soaked right through and not only burned me, but would make it very difficult to not cause extreme pain/burns removing the cloths. He then recommended I buy some rain suit and DIP it in the chemical to see if it would melt!
- One "Paint Expert" recommend that I use the OIL based Drylock paint in the Basement! If I had not continued to look into the topic, my house would probably be on fire, or Blown up, and I would Probably be DEAD!
- One Person suggested that I apply the Muriatic Acid with the mildew mixture mixed together. The Mildew mixture had Hydrochloride and an acid would of made the neutral Hydrochloride into the acidic Chlorine GAS!
- One Person told me to clean up my basement floor with bleach. However the Dog/Cat urine essentially was Ammonia! My Girlfriend followed their advice and pored the bleach on a small area of the floor that had been used for many years. After poring a bit on it, she came up and told me that it was bubbling! Luckily we had the Ventilation set up to draw in air from the floor and push it directly outside. I was close to calling the fire/hazemat units.

-- END RANT --

I appreciate the advice I just can not rely on HomeDepot Dude to tell safety information on cleanup when using heavy chemicals! I need more information then what the HomeDepot "Experts can provide!"

 

If you are using acids, strong corrosives and similar items...then you should be going to an industrial safety company. Don't expect a person who is 19 or 20 or even 40, to be able to advise you. Local hardware stores (and big box) are only used to dealing with homeowner issues.

This is not typical DIY info you are asking for......

Are you a meth maker?

Just kidding..but seriously, you are in the wrong forum.........

 

Nope, cleaning up a Mold/Mildew Basement! I had to use Vinager to neutralize the ammonia (turns it to salt) then clean up the Vinager, then use Bleach to Kill the Mildew/Mold, Bleach and Soap to clean up the loose latex (non waterproofing), loose masson, dirt, etc... on the walls, then regrade the driveway with driveway patch and driveway crack filler, regrade around the house (with a shovel).

Now I have to dig around PARTS of the foundation (outside) and put on roofing/foundation sealer (tar), fix gutters, fill in huge gaps and fix massonary with a bunch of different products, and then continue to wash the latex paint away with strippers and soap/water. Then I need to wash the entire thing with Acid (which I have to make sure all of the strippers, bleach and soap is removed, and then paint it with a indoors sealer. Drylock has been my friend.

However I am running out of money, and the chemicals I am using really are NASTY! Got to know your chemistry (and call poison control) for additional information. This is a total MESS, and I have been working on it for most of the summer! Luckily we have a outdoor firepit so most of the wood is either cleaned and put in the garage/workshop or chopped up for future fires!

Chemicles are not my only problem. The wireing of the house is a fire hazard (in parts), and the old owner was a contractor that took short cuts when doing his own house. So there are open and un-needed junction box's that he had because when he wanted another light/outlit, he would often just add a junction box. He also stapled allot of wires to the bottom of the studs (instead of cutting holes). This puts strain on the wires and can cause shortages. I have one wire barely stapled running from one side of the basement to the other.

To make things worse are the surprises! Example, Instead of insulating the pipes in the extentions crawlspace, he simply opened up a vent in the hot air ductwork. So my furnace is pumping hot air under the house in a crawl space that has an open vent outside for ventilation!

When he added the furnace, he cut a huge section out of one of the floor joists to run a hot air duct! The floor joist he cut a hole into is hugely compromised and is one of the main joists the Fridge sits on!

He also put on the roof. He knew it was leeking for years, but did nothing to fix it. Long story short, a huge section of the walls had to be fixed, a new roof and the floor joists had to be lifted with a jack and parts of the foundation had to be torn out and replaced!

Luckily I am on Disability and can spend the months it has taken to get to this point (most of the finished basement has been removed, the tiles removed, glued on carpet pulled, etc)...

Even working on the rooms damaged by the water from the roof had major issues. He never removed the outside plywood, so moisture got in between the sheetrock and the old outside plywood. He didnt do proper painting setup, so I have paint on every peace of molding there is! What doesnt have paint on it, has huge claw marks on the wood because of his cats!

The basement was finished correctly, except that something cracked and/or ruined the masson between the cinder blocks, and the grading to the house was not right because when he added the addition he didnt care to make sure the ground sloped away from the house!

When someone did the driveway, they didnt grade it away from the house. This lead to all of the rain water on the driveway beign pushed into the house's foundation!

Yesterday, I found that the wood supporting the fuse box was rusted, and that the fusebox is dangling by the wires!

I inherited the house from my fiancee's late husband. She didnt realize all of this until I started to complain about the horrible urine smell coming from the basement! To make things worse, the basement sub pump failed and the entire finished basement was submerged into 3 feet of water! He also covered up large area's of damage to the foundation to re-morgage the house.

Life here in DIY land is swell! I keep my mind on with "fun" projects like building a home server and network station! I just bought a lower grade belt for the belt sander to sand the old distressed pallet wood I used for the table top! The palet wood is beaten and has some amazing characteristics because of this! It will look amazing when I am done!

 

Nothing you have mentioned,including muriatic acid, is beyond the capability of better grade chemical resistant gloves available through hardware stores.You mentioned Home Depot and Lowes but not real hardware stores with knowledgeable help.Keyword knowledgeable,if you don't like what you hear either ask to talk to someone experienced or go elsewhere.

It really isn't possible to recommend a specific glove,brand etc as there are many and this is a job specific situation and only you know all the details.Some glove brands are national some are regional,some are distrbuted by national concerns others by manufacturer reps.

You may need more than one type of glove for all these projects.You also may want to discuss purchasing a quantity such as a dozen pairs and ask for a discount,something not possible at a big box store.

With all that you are doing you should establish a relationship with a local independently owned hardware store.You are going to need assistance and knowledge,something not available at a big box store and you are not saving significant amounts of money shopping there.Most items are at traditional retail pricing with only "headline" items at a real discount,plus how much is it costing you when you buy the wrong item or an item that doesn't do the job as well as the better quality item would.

 

The Home Depot and Loews higher grade chemical resistant gloves work. However I usually only get one use out of them. The solvent grade gloves they sell are $8 or $9, and generally last me one day. I was hoping for something more expensive that will cut costs.

One of the local hardware stores recommended talking to a janitorial supply company. There are a few in town, and they may have something better! I was hoping that someone would have some experience in this area and be able to recommend something specific.

I have been using latex gloves for most of the washing, but they tear allot and I just finished off a box. They are not expensive, around $9 for 100. However they will not handle the solvents and acids.

I have been using a deck brush without the handle for allot of the cleaning. I could add a handle and apply the acid with that. I can then just wash it with a hand sprayer. Unfortunately I have not heard of anything other then water to dilute/nutralize the acid. However Drylocks instructions just say to rinse the concrete before panting.

I dont know if I have any lime because of the paint, so I was going to wash all of the walls with the acid. I was hoping this would also help clean up the left over paint a bit more. I need to check to see if applying these acids on latex paint is dangerous. I have a feeling it will loosen the latex paint and I will have to remove it, then reapply more acid!

 

I've gotten some items from these folks and have been very satisfied:

Gloves Made Of Materials Designed to Keep Out Harmfull Chemicals

Northern also has a selction:

Chemical Resistant Gloves | Gloves | Northern Tool + Equipment