Trying to improve my long narrow closet and I really like my two Ikea Kallax shelves (2x8 cubbies), about 70lbs each, but would like them off the floor. My closet is 118" long so two of these fit perfect. I was looking for a way to wall mount them, and then put the clothes rods underneath. Then I wouldn't have to bend down to access the cubbies I could easily grab clothes off the rods. I had a few ideas, but looking for input so I don't have everything come crashing to the floor. I only put sweaters, shirts, etc, so beyond the shelf the added weight is minimal. I was using this closet design as inspiration to give you an idea what I was going for.

My random ideas...

1. Install steal shelf brackets to the wall and place shelves on top? Not sure this would support the weight.
2. Build a table for the Ikea shelf to sit on with legs to the floor using 2x4s?
3. Don't think the ikea shelf is strong enough to simply add legs too, but also an idea
4. Ditch the ikea bookcases and build regular closet shelves

Thanks for any ideas.

 

Two strips of 1 X 4 pine could be added to this shelving units, one under the bottom and one at the top so it could be mounted like a kitchen cabinet.
Pre finish the brackets before installing and make sure to pre drill the holes to mount it to the wall making sure it's screwed to the studs not just the sheetrock using cabinet screws..

 

Thanks for the input, I'm trying to wrap my head around your suggestion.

1. Were you suggesting brackets underneath attached to the wall and bookcase rests on top of them with the added 1x4 support?
2. Or attach 1x4s and then add brackets attached to the bookcase and screw it into the wall?
3. Or am I attaching the 1x4s to the back of the bookcase and screwing into the studs through the attached 1x4?

I was also thinking of installing a ledger to the wall and then resting the bookcase on it and then drilling into the wall to give it added support?

 

Your shelves were not designed to hang on the wall so you need to strengthen/add the back. In the picture below the back is sized to fit inside the "frame" and is securely fastened to all sides using pocket screws. Search for Kreg jig for the pocket holes or drill the holes from the sides.
I'm showing a picture of a full back, but joe's suggestion of 1 x 4's at the top and bottom will work also. The stronger the better.
You do not want the cabinet to separate from the backing or the top and bottom cleats (obviously)

A ledger is not a bad idea either, anything you can do to help support the cabinet.

 

Thanks that helped! I'm feeling pretty good if I follow these suggestions it will not fall down and crush me.