Shelf support advice needed
#1
Member
Thread Starter

I had a pantry built by a carpenter who made boxes of plywood and then installed them in. To support the shelves, he drilled small holes and then gave us the pins that go into the holes. All was well for a few months. Now, one after another the shelves are dropping. I mean the pin sags and the shelf drops. In one instance, the pin ripped the plywood.
This is a pantry. Lots of cans and jars that have quite a weight. It is intended for those purposes.
I am hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. I need to do something there that will allow me to do it in such a way to put the shelves back. I know we can put a supporting piece of wood on each side and be sure of it. The problem is, this in an awkward corner and if I attach wood shelf supports, one of the shelves will not go in.
Of course the carpenter that did this is long gone. This is now a dyi project.
please help.



This is a pantry. Lots of cans and jars that have quite a weight. It is intended for those purposes.
I am hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. I need to do something there that will allow me to do it in such a way to put the shelves back. I know we can put a supporting piece of wood on each side and be sure of it. The problem is, this in an awkward corner and if I attach wood shelf supports, one of the shelves will not go in.
Of course the carpenter that did this is long gone. This is now a dyi project.
please help.




Last edited by PJmax; 08-16-19 at 05:52 PM. Reason: reoriented/resized pictures

Top Answer
08-16-19, 06:57 PM
To add to what Pete said, if the sides of the cabinet are bowing out you need to add a fixed shelf in the middle... a non-movable shelf that is screwed to each side to prevent the cabinet from spreading.
Also, judging by the right side of the photo, those shelves are probably tremendously overloaded and are bowing under the weight. If that's the case you would either need to be more reasonable in how much you put on a shelf (this ain't a steel grocery store shelf!) -or- use thicker shelves that won't bow, -or- get more shelves so that you have a shelf every 6", and don't have any with double decker products on them.
I think Norm's solution and Pete's shelf supports are both good ideas too. I use the exact same shelf supports that your carpenter used and have never had a problem with them.
Out of curiosity, how wide are those shelves on the left? Shelves that are too wide ought to only have light items on them.
Also, judging by the right side of the photo, those shelves are probably tremendously overloaded and are bowing under the weight. If that's the case you would either need to be more reasonable in how much you put on a shelf (this ain't a steel grocery store shelf!) -or- use thicker shelves that won't bow, -or- get more shelves so that you have a shelf every 6", and don't have any with double decker products on them.
I think Norm's solution and Pete's shelf supports are both good ideas too. I use the exact same shelf supports that your carpenter used and have never had a problem with them.
Out of curiosity, how wide are those shelves on the left? Shelves that are too wide ought to only have light items on them.
#2
That type of construction is not sufficient for pantry storage of canned goods for that type of material. to fix it you need to put full supports (perhaps a 1 x depth of cupboard) on all three sides of each shelf. You will not be able to change shelf height after.
#4
The fix is rather easy. All you need to do is screw 1 x strips on each side and the back to support the shelf. Cost would be less than $25 for wood and screws. We can draw a diagram if you're not sure as to what I mean.
#5
The problem is that the side walls of the pantry must be bowing out. Those slide-pins in plywood can take a lot of weight as long as the shelf fits tight...... side to side. I'd imagine the shelves have excessive room now.
If the shelves are a tight fit side to side....... redrill new holes and use more supports. The supports in the picture below are better if the shelves fit a little loose. The supports must fit tight in the hole.
If the shelves are a tight fit side to side....... redrill new holes and use more supports. The supports in the picture below are better if the shelves fit a little loose. The supports must fit tight in the hole.

Saphira2021
voted this post useful.
#6
To add to what Pete said, if the sides of the cabinet are bowing out you need to add a fixed shelf in the middle... a non-movable shelf that is screwed to each side to prevent the cabinet from spreading.
Also, judging by the right side of the photo, those shelves are probably tremendously overloaded and are bowing under the weight. If that's the case you would either need to be more reasonable in how much you put on a shelf (this ain't a steel grocery store shelf!) -or- use thicker shelves that won't bow, -or- get more shelves so that you have a shelf every 6", and don't have any with double decker products on them.
I think Norm's solution and Pete's shelf supports are both good ideas too. I use the exact same shelf supports that your carpenter used and have never had a problem with them.
Out of curiosity, how wide are those shelves on the left? Shelves that are too wide ought to only have light items on them.
Also, judging by the right side of the photo, those shelves are probably tremendously overloaded and are bowing under the weight. If that's the case you would either need to be more reasonable in how much you put on a shelf (this ain't a steel grocery store shelf!) -or- use thicker shelves that won't bow, -or- get more shelves so that you have a shelf every 6", and don't have any with double decker products on them.
I think Norm's solution and Pete's shelf supports are both good ideas too. I use the exact same shelf supports that your carpenter used and have never had a problem with them.
Out of curiosity, how wide are those shelves on the left? Shelves that are too wide ought to only have light items on them.
Norm201,
Saphira2021
voted this post useful.