Deck prep for staining


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Old 08-26-02, 06:02 AM
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Deck prep for staining

I FINALLY finished my deck last weekend. Actually, the decking was completed last year, and the rails and stairs this year.

Used PT SYP for decking (5/4 X 6) which was "Thompsonized". I believe all of the thompsonizing wore off in the year it was sitting out in the weather this past year.

I will be using Cabot's semi-transparent deck stain and will brush it on. Spoke to the rep at Siperstiens (Cabot retailer) and he recommended I use Olympic brand cleaner (contains NO bleach) using a pump sprayer and simply hosing it off.

My question is do I still need to powerwash? I was going to purchase a pressure washer specifically for this deck, but the Cabot rep told me I didn't need to. If this is correct, can I get away with using the cleaner, and just spot-sanding the rough spots?

My thought was that if the stain/sealer didn't hold up, I could always powerwash NEXT year if it is really needed.

Thanks!!

Dave
 
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Old 08-26-02, 12:38 PM
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Hi Dave,

Please take some time and read the posts in the "fastening deck boards" post. Your answer re the Thompsonized wood is there. If water still beads at all it should be stripped off in order for the new stain to penetrate propery. A stripper spray, light brushing, and hosing off should do the trick.

fred
 
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Old 08-26-02, 01:57 PM
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Thanks! I did read the other posts, however, my question remains.

Assuming water DOESN'T bead up on the deck (I know for a fact it doesn't on MOST of the deck) will using a cleaner and hosing off be sufficient prep before staining? I may spot sand where there are noticalbe blemishes.

Thanks.

Dave
 
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Old 08-26-02, 02:24 PM
trailer_fan
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Dave,

To be honest, I did both with a brand new deck, and it was probably overkill. In my case, it is a redwood deck about 300 sq. ft. I first sanded it using 60 grit paper (never go above 80, it reduces how much stain in absorbed) in my random orbit sander. I thought it would take forever, but honestly it took about 3 hours to do the entire surface of the deck and the fascia boards, which wasn't bad. I used about 10 sanding discs, so I figure you can get about 25-30 sq ft out of each disk.

If you decide to sand, be sure to sink the screws deep enough into the decking to avoid sanding the tops of the screws....you will strip off any protective coating and end up with rusting screws very quickly!

I then used a cleaner / brightener product on the deck, mostly to remove any tannin bleed, etc. that the sanding didn't get. Those two combined made the surface absolutely perfect for staining / sealing. However, I believe that sanding would have been enough on its own, since I did the water test after sanding, and there was no beading what-so-ever.

That's my $0.02, for what it's worth
 
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Old 08-26-02, 03:21 PM
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Dave,
If water beads anywhere on the horizontal it needs to be stripped. I use a PW but a stiff brushing and hosing off will work.
Any previous sealer(paraffin) may repel your stain.

Sanding is generally not required at all. Only if 'fuzzies' develop or there are very rough edges.

Trailer_fan,
An oxalic acid wash and a pessure washing would have cleaned your deck like new in less than an hour.

fred
 
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Old 08-26-02, 08:02 PM
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Fred,

Trailer_fan here, sorry, my username is different on my home computer for some reason....at any rate, I completely agree. In fact, the cleaner I used was an oxalic acid based cleaner / brightener. However, since it was a new deck and there were a lot of splinters & rough areas from the mill and/or my installation, I decided to sand the whole thing so I can walk barefoot on it without risk of splinters.

Under ordinary circumstances, I would have just used the cleaner and skipped the sanding step. It has been my experience in the past that I only need to sand a deck every 10 years or so, if it is properly maintained.

I'm somewhat nervous about using a pressure washer, as I've heard that it is best left to professionals (horror stories about inexperienced homeowners doing some real damage to their decks), so I opt for the cleaner with a stiff brush and some elbow grease

Thanks for the feeback.
 
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Old 08-26-02, 09:34 PM
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Hi glyons,

Glad to hear you used the correct cleaner on your redwood.

Actually, the PW isn't as bad as what you've heard. I've only damaged one customers' deck board due to a clogged tip and my 40 degree tip acted like a rifle for a moment! The toughest trick is not leaving fan marks by hesitating in one spot, but even those can be 'feathered' out. Some older wood can be a problem and leave a rougher surface if you get the pressure a little too high.
That's when I might lightly sand over just before staining.

fred
Deck-Kleen Powerwashing
 
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Old 08-27-02, 02:41 AM
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Dave, you may be right about Olympic Deck Cleaner but I used some of it earlier this summer and I seem to remember it having that bleach smell about it. If that is important to you I would check label to make sure. My deck is pressure treated and had to go untreated more than a year before I could get to it. It had grayed and under a large oak tree it was also very stained. The product more than did a beautiful job for me and I have no complaints. I followed with a semi transparent redwood stain which I sprayed and backbrushed. I have some shots you can see at http://community.webshots.com/user/llewopd
Dennis
 
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Old 08-27-02, 05:06 AM
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scrollmaster,

As information - the olympic cleaner you used contains sodium hypochlorite (bleach), which actually bleaches the natural color out of wood. An oxygenated bleach is much better to use and is basically harmless to you and your surrounding plants.

I did a test two years ago on my PT ramp to my shed.
The oxalic is best for redwood/cedar but I tried it on PT wood anyway. You can see the results in this picture:

http://community.sierra.com/WebX?233...osure=.ef8fd8d

fred
Deck-Kleen Powerwashing


PS - what's a Terk42 do for the Dishnet system?
 
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Old 08-27-02, 07:45 AM
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Dennis,

I love the pictures of the deck! Would you mind sharing what stain you used (not only the manuf. but also the exact product, color, etc.?) I think it is the color I was trying to go for...

-Geoff
 
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Old 08-27-02, 09:45 AM
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Fewalt, Scrollmaster, Glyons (trailer_fan),

Thanks for all your help!! The guy at sipersteins told me there wasn't any bleach in the olympic cleaner, but I will double check before I buy it, and look for oxegynated bleach as an alternative.

I will use a stiff brush to agitate the cleaner, then hose it off. Assuming no water bead-up, I will then apply stain with a 6" brush.

Dave
 
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Old 08-27-02, 01:55 PM
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Geoff, I used Olympic Maximum semi-transparent Redwood. Sprayed it on and backbrushed. Best hint I can drop here is to take some scrap wood from your deck if available, clean it with whatever product you are going to use and have the supplier put a sample of every color you are interested in to see exactly how it will look on your wood. Do not depend on their color charts.
Dennis

Originally posted by trailer_fan
Dennis,

I love the pictures of the deck! Would you mind sharing what stain you used (not only the manuf. but also the exact product, color, etc.?) I think it is the color I was trying to go for...

-Geoff
 
  #13  
Old 09-04-02, 06:43 AM
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I did find a few deck boards that are actually beading up (thompsanized pt pine which has been sitting unprotected for over a year) and I was rather surprised! Will the Olympic Deck cleaner remove the factory-applied sealer to allow the stain to penetrate, or do I still need to use a stiff brush or sand?

Obviously I will know if it's still beading up after I wash it, but I would rather know ahead of time what I will need to do.

Thanks.
Dave
 
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Old 09-04-02, 11:48 AM
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Dave,

If your deck boards are still beading water, it needs to be stripped off. You'll nee a stripper containing sodium hydroxide. The Oympic(bleach) will kill mildew, but it will remove all the natural color from your wood. Did you check out my previous picture link?
Be careful with the stripper, sodium hydroxide is lye. Use gloves and wear eye protection. You can roll it on, let set, and pressure wash. You can scrub brush it in lieu of pw, then hose it off. Protect any greenery around your deck.

fred
 
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Old 09-04-02, 01:45 PM
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Fred,
I'm sorry I forgot to answer your question about the Terk antenna. What it does is provide local channels by attaching on to the dtv or dishnetwork outside dish and hooks up to the existing dish lines so you don't have to pull new cable for the antenna. You just put an inexpensive diplexer at the receiver to seperate the TV signal and hook that to the TV in. Works great. I have the Terk 42 because that works with my system and location. There are other model numbers for different circumstances and locations. You can go to their website and find much more info. www.terk.com
Take care bud,
Dennis

Originally posted by fewalt
]

fred
Deck-Kleen Powerwashing

PS - what's a Terk42 do for the Dishnet system?
 
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Old 09-04-02, 02:55 PM
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Dennis,
I did do a search and checked it out after I had asked. I even worked my buddie's store (Sat TV and cb's) while he was on vac last week. And one person came in and ordered one! Don't know his reception results yet.
Thanks again,
fred
 
 

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