Fuzzy Wood - Help


  #1  
Old 09-02-02, 08:10 PM
Spencer2000
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Unhappy Fuzzy Wood - Help

Saturday we powerwashed our porch and now that it is dry, in places it has kind of a fuzz on it. Our plans are to seal with Olympic Maximum tinted sealant, but what do I do about this fuzzy wood. My husband says to forget it and continue on, but I do not want to waste our time and money if there is something we need to do about this first. This is a 12 year old large deck like front porch that had never been cared for and I am afraid our attempt to give it a face lift might of left us with yet another problem. Also, one more question, I am interested in using a solid color white stain on the post and the tinted sealant on the floor. Would you recommed the solid stain for the post, or should I steer clear of this and use the sealant for the entire porch, post and all. Your help would be greatly appreciated, as I need guidance. Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 09-03-02, 05:23 AM
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Spencer2000,

The 'fuzzies' develop from usually older wood and a slightly too high pressure on the PW.
In two or three weeks most of them will disappear. But on hand rails, benches, and anywhere there may be bare feet I hand sand lightly with 60 or 80 grit paper to remove them prior to staining.

I like the two-tone look also and on one of our two decks I have
used Wolmans Extreme white on the posts and balusters. It is an acryic stain(pricey) and hopefully will last five years or more on these horzontal pieces. When it comes time to redo them due to any peeling I will sand lightly and re-apply the white. Much easier than strippng them.
One more sugestion - cover the deck boards well when applying to the verticals!

fred
Deck-Kleen Powerwashing
 
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Old 09-03-02, 06:53 AM
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Re: Fuzzy Wood - Help

Spencer2000,
You definitely want to fix the "fuzzies" before staining/sealing. The sandpaper works really well but stay with the lower grit like Fewalt outlined. If you have many places to do, may be easier to use a sander.

You mentioned it has never been cared for. Are you saying it has never been stained or painted to seal it? If it has, make sure your deck will absorb water droplets so you will know it will abosrb the stain. Check the vertical parts as well because they typically will endure better than other parts for repelling water. If it does not abosrb water readily you will need to sand or strip any previous finish.

I've had very good results with Olympic Maximum stains. It is what I used when we built my own deck. If you care to see what Olympic Maximum Redwood semi-transparent on pressure treated wood did with my deck go to...

http://community.webshots.com/user/llewopd

In case you didn't, you also may want to use a deck wash and brightner before staining to bring appearance of the wood up. This can really enhance the appearance of older wood and make a difference in the appearance of the stained finish. If so do this before sanding and many times that will take care of much of the fuzzing caused by improper powerwashing. Test the cleaner and/or brightner on a hidden part of the deck first. Be sure to read and follow instruction on the container for best results.

After you prep your wood and are ready to stain you should test the stain choices on your wood. With a 12 yr old deck it's not likely you have left over scrap to take in to the supplier to test, so I would suggest after narrowing your stain choices to bring a can of each home and test each on a hidden area to see what it looks like on your wood. Take back what you don't want. I just dip a wadded part of paper towel and rub that on the wood for each stain I want to check. You will be surprised how often this changes folks mind.

If you apply stain with a sprayer be sure to backbrush so it will spread evenly and produce a beautiful overall appearance. This also helps force the stain into the wood. Get a helper, one spryaing and one brushing and you'll save a bunch of time.

And remember, a properly used powerwasher can be a handy tool, especially on a larger deck. I power wash my new deck regularly just like I did my previous decks and have never had a problem. I recommend less than 1000psi with the widest angle nozzle, (probably 40 degrees) and keep that wand back from the wood. If something won't clean this way then come back and scrub with a brush.
Good luck and put some photos for us to see will ya,
Dennis
 
  #4  
Old 09-09-02, 06:01 AM
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Just finished cleaning the majority of my deck (still need to clean the outside rails and stairs) with Olympic deck cleaner, and have developed fuzzies. Deck is only 1 year old (pressure treated SYP) and was never powerwashed or stained (other than the "thomponizing" that was done in the factory, or wherever they do that). My plan is to lightly sand as described above, however, wasn't sure why I got the fuzzies. Can one year of weathering cause fuzzies after cleaning, or is it from the bleach in the cleaner? Assuming I finish cleaning the deck in the next day or so, I will stain next weekend. Any chance of these "fuzzies" disappearing by then, or should I plan on sanding?

Also, noticed that where I ran out of cleaner and had to stop and buy a SECOND 2.5 gallon jug, there were areas that seemed cleaner than others, and especially where some drops of cleaner fell. Does this need to be re-cleaned to get a more uniform appearance before staining?

Thanks!!

Dave
 
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Old 09-09-02, 06:29 PM
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Dave,
Lot of it may tend to dissappear over time but I have this thing about staining fuzzies, I don't think doing so is wise and we always sand lightly over them with a kinda rough grit paper. As for not cleaning well the first time, when I have decks that need a 2nd cleaning we let them dry before doing so.
BTW - I was in our local Sams Club today and they had 23 of the 2.5 gallon jugs of Olympic Deck Cleaner for $2.50 ea, they must have found some left over I guess. Fred (fewalt) recommends the Biowash products and would try their cleaner but I don't know anyone here that sells them or maybe they are a dealer direct company. I would like to find a very good alternative to cleaners with bleach though.
Dennis
 
  #6  
Old 09-10-02, 03:33 AM
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Dennis,

At least locally, the Lowes/HD don't sell oxygenated bleach deck cleaners. I buy mine at regular paint(Duron,Dulux) stores. I've even seen it available at a large Ace hardware store too. It comes in powder form and is easily dissolved in hot water. Wolmans and Cabots both market it. It doesn't bleach the color out of the wood. Apply with a pump sprayer.

'Fuzzies' - they'll go away in a couple weeks. You can sand them if you like, especially on hand rails. Actually, on one of my own decks I donned a heavy leather work glove and just rubbed over them.

fred
 
 

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