Brick patio extension


  #1  
Old 11-13-02, 01:37 PM
dantaz
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Question Brick patio extension

I've built a few patio extensions out of brick and now my in laws want me to do theirs which is great...the issue is I've levelled the terrain as much as I can and am about to put down the gravel/sand base...I need to slope it away from their existing patio and slightly to the west as it was grass and was creating a muddy area (even in Arizona) near the existing patio...my question is what is the best way to ensure my slopes stay as true as when I begin my efforts laying the 20 lb 1'x1' concrete slabs? Would you use the straight 2x4 method or should I run a grid of string lines, using my string level? I worry that the string level method will allow for the strings to sag and give e inaccurate readings...in the past I simply used a 4 ft level, a long straight 2x4 and constant rechecking but as the other projects were for folks less of perfectionistic and for those who didn't have such an odd slope/drainage challenge...any suggestions other than to move to Austrailia and just forget the whole thing? ; )
 
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Old 11-13-02, 05:13 PM
C
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I rather like the idea of a 4 foot level and straight 2x4. It seems that making sure that the gravel base and sand base are sloped correctly will give you what you need.

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Old 11-13-02, 05:23 PM
L
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Whether you use a 4' level on a long straight edge (I prefer a piece of angle iron to a "straight" 2X4), or the string level, you still have several issues that need to be explained to the in-laws.

First, no matter how perfect the job is when you complete it, give it a year or two of rains and dry spells and the pavers are going to move around. Some will rise, others will drop. Using a sand base will allow you (or them) to remove the guilty ones and reset them.

Using a 4' level -- once you have things set and the level tells you things are level, rotate the level end for end, and read it again. If the level is out of true, now it will tell you that one end is high. To "cure" this, adjust the pavers so that with the level in one direction it tells you the left end is high, and in the other direction, it tells you the right end is high by the same amount. NOW it is level.

String levels -- Just like any vial level, if these are out of true, rotating it 180 degrees will give you a different reading. Just like above, adjust things so that in one direction it tells you it is high an the left, and in the other direction, it shows high on the right by the same amount. The key to string levels is to hang them in the center of the string. If your string is spanning 20', hang the level about 10' from each end. This will be the lowest point of the string, no matter how tight you have it stretched.
 
  #4  
Old 11-16-02, 04:46 PM
zinger
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brick patio

Use a water level. Put your level mark on a 2x4 stake, then lower it an inch or two, do the same thing on the west side. Lower it another inch or two for the drainage. Nail a 2x4 on th e two stakes at your marks. Then use another 2x4 to level from the existing patio to the lower board.
 
 

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