sticky deck

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  #1  
Old 07-30-03, 11:23 AM
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Question sticky deck

I have a covered wooden deck. About 2 years ago I sanded it down and restained it with a Behr stain that I had the color matched to the existing color. But, it came out sticky. Over the past years the stickyness went away. But, it is very dirty because it was sticking to everything the touched it. The guy at home depot said it was because I didn't use the Behr cleaner that apparently opens the wood pores?

Well, I want to fix this. What would be the proper method so I can avoid the stickyness?

Thanks,
Shawn
 
  #2  
Old 07-30-03, 12:58 PM
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I'd be willing to be that the reason that the product stayed sticky is because it never dried. It may have been applied too thick or the weather too hard and it skinned over trapping the solvent in the finish.

This sticky material will have to come off in order to make a proper environment for whatever you use to work.

There are several posts about different products to clean and treat decks. After a while, some of the pros will be along.

HTH
 
  #3  
Old 07-31-03, 02:15 PM
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Use a pressure washer on it, make sure you use a fan spray and not a pinpoint. See if that cleans it up a bit. I would sooner pressure wash a deck then use some of the more harse cleaners because they raise the grain in some kinds of wood.
 
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Old 07-31-03, 04:57 PM
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Want the 'stickies' to go away. Don't use the Behr again!!!

The Behr should be stripped with a deck stripper. You want to get down to the bare wood, as many products will not work over a previous stain/problem. Strippers alone don't generally raise the grain. It's usually too much pressure. As Hellrazor noted - use a 40 degree tip on the pw.

When it's all clean and dry, go to a regular paint store and get a quality stain: Sikkens, Cabots, Wolman F&P, Suderdeck, or Readyseal if available in your locale. You should find one of these in your area.

fred
 
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Old 08-01-03, 04:27 PM
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Thanks for your repsonse.

Chfite - You may be correct. It was my first deck that I put this stuff on. I had sanded it down and was trying to cover it up all in coat. I probably should have used two coats? Thinner?

Hellrazor & fewalt - What exactly do you mean raise the grain? When they built the deck I don't think they used the most quality wood. But, not sure what you mean by that exactly.

I had originally thought I'd just rent a floor sander again and sand the sucker down again. What do you think of that? Is the stripper better?

Are these other products that "open the pores" of the wood really that effective or useful?

Thanks again
 
  #6  
Old 08-01-03, 05:34 PM
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denverlynx,

There is usually no need to sand a deck. Especially if you have face nailed galv nails or screws. You will remove the coating and end up with rust spots on your deck. And how do you get a floor sander under any rails around your deck? Professionals will not use a sander.

Raised grain or 'fuzzies' occur when water and or too high water pressure is used on wood. Then it may need a light sanding with 80 or 100 grut paper.

A stripper, usually containing sodium hydroxide, will remove most stains - along with the pressure washer.

Two coats of stain? You need to read the instructions very carefully. Most quality stains will advise one coat only. This is because the second coat may be repelled by the first. Then you end up with a congealed mess again.

Don't worry about opening the pores of the wood. A good penetrating oil base stain will be absorbed into the wood.
Like I mentioned above, strip it, let it dry, then apply a quality product.

fred
 
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Old 08-01-03, 09:44 PM
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Like Fred said -- "Behr? Why??" (There are much better products out there, and NONE of them start with a "T")

Also like Fred said -- when you did 2 coats of stain, you probably did yourself in. (Well, that's KINDA what he said -- I just took a little literary liberty here!! Fred will forgive me, I HOPE!) A good stain is also going to seal the wood -- a second coat has no place to go -- hence -- sticky!!
 
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Old 08-03-03, 04:09 PM
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Ok, ok...no need to rub my face in my Behr mistake anymore! I'm not going to use it again!


The reasoning behind my wanting to sand the deck is because we are under strict water restrictions due to the drought here. My neighbor is a chicken hawk and will turn in her own family if they water on the wrong or the wrong things. And watering the deck down with a power washer is falling under the wrong thing. I just can't risk a $400 fine. I might as well have it replaced with the stuff that doesn't require staining for that price.
 
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Old 08-03-03, 04:27 PM
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"Call your City Fathers"

denverlynx,

Last year and the year before we also had water restrictions. However, contractors were exempt and were still allowed to use water to pressure wash (improve your property).
You may be allowed to use water to clean your deck - give the city/town a call. Maybe you can thumb your nose at 'old chicken hawk'!!

fred
(glad I have my own well)---------------------that still pumps water.
 
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Old 08-04-03, 04:34 PM
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Thank you Fred! I did call and can in fact use the power washer to re-stain my deck.

Plus, I found that Cabots is sold right across the stre from me and they will give you small samples to take home to match to my current color. The guy said stain is much more difficult to match colorwise. This place also has a small 2000 psi power washer to rent to me.

So, my last concern is just to get the proper stripper.

Out of curiosity, if do happen to gouge the wood with the power washer. What would be the best way to repair it? Just some of that wood filler?

Thanks again,
Shawn
 
  #11  
Old 08-04-03, 07:47 PM
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Shawn,

You won't gouge the wood with a 40 degree tip on the PW.
I've only ever damaged one board - my tip clogged and shot a laser jet stream into a very old plank. The owner had already replaced three or four rotten planks and he told me he would fix it - no problem - it was a 20 yr old deck. If you do get some 'fuzzie's, just lightly sand with 80 grit paper.

Careful with the stripper solution: wear eye and skin protection. Most strippers are sodium hydroxide (lye). Oh, and cover any/all delicate pplants and shrubs, and rinse off well.

good luck,
fred
 
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Old 08-11-03, 11:19 AM
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Just one last question. I promise! I got down to the wood and realized that the deck was made out of pine 2x4 s. Could this affect how the stain will react to the wood?

Thanks,
Shawn
 
  #13  
Old 08-15-03, 09:18 PM
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Unhappy Sticky decktwo/too

We just had someone stain our new deck addition (Home Depot Bauer' s paint) and guess what its sticky. It doesn't stick to your shoes but it feels awful walking across it. It would probably leave an oily stain on clothes.
We used chocolate color and it looks very nice but ...
The idea of having to strip it off or even pressure wash it is very depressing. It was the last part of a long project.
We still need to do our old deck to match and now I think I need to wait but for what???

Any hope that it is just the humidity and it will dry after a couple of weeks.

Or will Home Depot do anything about it. LOL.

Any ideas?
 
  #14  
Old 08-16-03, 06:04 PM
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"We just had someone stain our new deck addition"

"We just had someone stain our new deck addition"

P99,

Did you pay to have someone stain your deck??
If so, and if it doesn't dry in three or four days, call them back!!!


denverlynx,
Even PT wood is Pine, usually SYP - Southern Yellow Pine.
Pine has a tendancy to stain blotchy on finished furniture. But it's usually not a problem with outdoor decks.

fred
 
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Old 08-18-03, 09:51 PM
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p99,

I had some luck with a Home Depot and one of their lousy sub-contractors. They messed up a small installation of a wood floor.
I filed a complaint on the HD website. It was sent to the store manager who sent me a reply. He had one of his guys come take a look at it and sent another installer out to pull it up and replace it.
 
 

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