dry brick path install tips


  #1  
Old 09-02-03, 05:12 AM
T
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dry brick path install tips

Hello,

I'm working to install a "dry" brick/paver path at front house entrace. It runs about 13' from steps to the asphalt driveway in front of house. At steps it is 5' and then flares out to approximately 13' as it flows into the driveway. There is a gentle slope downwards from the steps to the driveway.

So far, I have dug out the dirt and placed 4' of crushed stone (12b stone). I've also lined the curved sides with iron edging.

I've ordered solid brick pavers that aborb moisture. They measure 3.5" X 7.5". They appear fairly porus and soft.

I've done the reading, but there is no substitute for the quick tips from "do-it-yourselfers" out there. Before moving further, however, I would appreciate some advise on the following:

1. Do I need to add an iron edge between the driveway and the pavers, or is the driveway a good edge and will keep the pavers secure. I will add that the ashpalt driveway edge is not all that smooth and is a bit jagged.

2. What is the best way to lay the bricks? Should I run a whole pavers along the edge first and then cut as necessary to fill in, or can i simpy go side to side in typcal fashion (such as those on walls) in laying the pavers?

3. Can I cut the pavers using a diamond tip blade with a conventional circular saw, or do I need to rent one of those "Wet" saws you see on home improvement TV shows?
If so, any tips on cutting with the circular saw - how tight can you make the cuts?

4. Do you recommend laying the synthetic plastic weed barrier? If so, where should it go - between the crushed rock and sand layers or between the sand layer and the pavers?

5. I've noticed that water drains to the edge of the driveway and eventually moves away or gets aborbed into the sub material and.or soil. Do I need to run a corrugated pipe to move the water or will all be OK once the pavers in. Will the water go over the pavers once it is all done, or will it still seep down to the rock and then move that way?

6. Since there is a slight slope downward from steps to the driveway, what is the best way to level the path before laying down pavers? If it were level, i could build a screed and do it that way, but since it curces and goes down, this is somewhat of a challenge (at least for me anyways).

7. What is the purpose of putting in a layer of sand? It is for leveling or does it enhance the base? How thick should the layer be (1" or 2") ?

8. Once the pavers in set, shoud sand be swept into the cracks or should I use a mixture of sand and portland cement? I've read about both, but not sure what benefit would be provided by use of portland cement.

I've asked far too many questions,,,,thannks in advance.

tom
 
  #2  
Old 09-02-03, 07:01 AM
C
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Sounds as if you have your project well laid out.

Here's a how to on dry walkways.

http://www.doityourself.com/brick/br...-e2gar0152.htm

Do I need to add an iron edge between the driveway and the pavers
The driveway should be sufficient, if the bricks fit tightly.

What is the best way to lay the bricks?
There are several patterns. Being a penny-pincher I would tend to use the one that wasted the least brick.

http://www.bia.org/pdfs/7steps.pdf


Can I cut the pavers using a diamond tip blade with a conventional circular saw, or
If you have many to cut, I would rent a saw. You might eat up yours with all the dust.

weed barrier?
Yes, use the landscape fabric under the sand layer.


Do I need to run a corrugated pipe to move the water
This depends upon how much water there is. If it is a problem now, it won't be better later. Judgment call. Some water will run over the brick, some will soak in. Overall, it creates some water shedding problems of its own.


best way to level the path
The edging that you mentioned would be the best. Level it when it is installed and screed across it. Take a look at the *.pdf file I linked.

layer of sand
It does both. I recall the depth to be an inch, but look at the links.

should sand be swept into the cracks
Yes, sweep sand in as mentioned in the documents. The portland cement would be too little for bonding, and the landscape fabric should keep most of the weeds out.

've asked far too many questions
No. Actually, there is no limit to the number of questions permitted.

Hope this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 09-02-03, 09:22 AM
T
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Chris, this is tremendous help and additional referene info provided. This is a great forum! Thanks again!

Tom
 
 

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