staining a pressure treated lumber deck

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  #1  
Old 04-09-04, 06:53 PM
milli
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staining a pressure treated lumber deck

I just found out that Pt wood needs a special stain to be able to penetrate the wood fibers.Read this in the DIY e-mail I get. What specific brands and types of stain should I buy. I'm building a small deck (8x11) outside my bedroom and want to make sure it's finished properly.
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Old 04-09-04, 07:01 PM
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Go to a good lumberyard/hardware store and ask for suggestions. Read the labels on the containers and make sure it's recommended for use on PT lumber.

When I say "good lumberyard/hardware store", I'm NOT talking about Home Depot or Lowes.
 
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Old 04-09-04, 07:12 PM
milli
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PT lumber stain

thanks Dave for you reply.... I live in Sacramento and only go to Home Depot or Lowes!! Do you think Ace would qualify as a good store to get info
 
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Old 04-09-04, 07:42 PM
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Ace has good paint but I have used and know people that have used their stains and they are garbage. They will tell you its the best but trust me..... Pre treated lumber just needs to age be fore you stain it. Use a product like Sikkens or Deck scapes sw or if you really want the best try TWP. \
 
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Old 04-09-04, 10:02 PM
milli
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staining a pressure treated deck

thanks again for the quick response.... in doing a web search for PT lumber I get so many opinions... the lumbermills have web sites that suggest not staining at all but using a pigmented sealer.... they suggest two weeks of dry weather b4 treating..... the deck will be in close proximity to my spa... actually surrounding the platform that the spa is on.... the dogs use that exit from the house to get to the outside........... I think that staining is high maintenence and with a sealer that has pigment I might have a deck that's not the PT green.... your opinions please
 
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Old 04-09-04, 10:38 PM
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milli --

Drive a bit -- GO TO Meeks!!!

There's one in Rocklin, one in Vacaville, one in Stockton ...

Depending on where you are in Sac., one of those 3 is less than 40 miles from you.
 
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Old 04-10-04, 05:48 AM
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milli-

If you were in San Jose, I could recommend the ACE Hardware I've used for over 20 yrs. Their people know their stuff - or can find out. They don't just babble something to you and move to the next customer.

If you really have to use HD or Lowes, spend time reading the instructions on the cans. If it doesn't mention application to PT lumber, keep looking.

I'll be at my ACE later today and will ask them for suggestions. I'll post whatever I can find out.
 
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Old 04-10-04, 07:23 AM
milli
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pt lumber staining

Dave and lefty thanks for all the info.... Dave I would appreciate your asking your ACE person and I'll be watching out for your response... lefty.. Meeks lumber huh? will I work in Roseville so it wouldn't be out of my way to find it in Rocklin if I can't get any info elsewhere....
It's not that I must go to Lowes or Home Depot, it's just that those are the places I've been frequenting
Some of the web sites mention that to stain is high maintenance...... what do you think?... would a pigmented sealer be more durable? the deck will get dog foot traffic, human foot traffic and some overspray with the sprinklers
thanks
 
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Old 04-10-04, 09:56 AM
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Well, they say you learn something new every day and today was no excpetion.

ACE sells a semi-transparent oil based Deck & Siding Stain called WoodRoyal that claims to be "perfect for dry pressure treated lumber". It costs $18.95 a gallon here and comes in a pretty wide range of colors.

The store manager was as surprised as I was.

I've never used it so I can't comment on the validity of their claim, but it might be worth a look.

Good Luck
 
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Old 04-10-04, 02:21 PM
milli
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pt lumber

Thanks for the info..... thank you so much for asking the ACE people.......
I'll let the forum know what I decide
Millicent
 
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Old 04-10-04, 02:30 PM
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Glad to help. Please let us know how it works out for you.

No biggie about asking "the ACE people" but if I ever called Harry an "ACE person" he would probably cut off my contractors discount.
 
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Old 04-11-04, 09:32 AM
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The Meeks Lumber in Rocklin is at 4243 Dominguez Rd.

Hope that helps.
 
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Old 04-11-04, 11:04 AM
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Good luck with the Ace Stain.
 
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Old 04-11-04, 10:18 PM
milli
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pt staining

thanks to everyone for their input into my dilemma.... I went on to the Consumer Reports website and looked up deck staining..... they say that 1. the pressure treated wood has to be dry and that they found a product called Cabot works far a above the rest..... but I'm still going to Meeks as well as Ace to talk to people and read labels
Does anyone know the brand Cabot and whether it's sold in my area ....Sacramento California

Millicent
 
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Old 04-12-04, 02:39 PM
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Cabot's is good. So is Sikkens, Wolman F&P, ReadySeal, Menwood, and TWP. Most all these are oil-base penetrating stains. The toned ones usually offer more uv protection than the clears.

fred
 
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Old 04-12-04, 06:04 PM
milli
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pt staining

well I went to home depot to just read labels.... some recommend sanding the wood prior to staining or using a pigmented sealer. Also using a product that removes previous stains, paint or sealer prior to staining. Again to allow the stain or sealer to penetrate......
any thoughts on the deal
Millicent
 
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Old 04-12-04, 06:54 PM
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Sorry milli, I can't help. I personally don't like PT decking and also never stain, paint, or seal my decks. Maybe I'm weird, but I like the weathered look.
 
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Old 04-12-04, 07:20 PM
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Milli,

Since you are building new, all you need to do is wait a couple weeks to make sure the wood is dry. No need to sand or remove anything.

Now select an oil base stain and brush on or roll it on with some back-brushing to even it out.

fred
 
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Old 04-12-04, 07:49 PM
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Re: pt staining

If you're just building you shouldn't need to strip. Just let the wood dry, use a good cleaner, let that thoroughly dry and stain. I don't do nearly as many decks as some of these guys but the last few times I've stained I've used Olympic Maximum Redwood in semi-transparent and have been pleased with the outcome on my mom & dad's deck and the last two decks I've had. I get it at Lowe's when they have their summer promotions and saves a bit of money... paid about $12-$13 gal last time. Seems to make three years like clockwork which is about as long as I feel I can expect. It's not that it looks bad after three years but I just a bit faded. You can see photos of it after three years by clicking the link below my name and then choosing the DECK THREE YRS LATER option.

It's time to restain the deck at home this summer and I may try Wolmans because it's one of the brands Fred thinks so much of and it's available locally but would be real surprised if I get more than three years from it.
 
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Old 04-12-04, 07:58 PM
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The last thing you want to do is start sanding PT wood. My decks of choice are composites and redwood. Never do a thing to the composites, other than tell the owner to clean them regularly. The redwoods I seal with SuperDeck initially -- it's on the owner after that.
 
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Old 04-12-04, 08:09 PM
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Re: the Olympic Maximum,

read the post by Scromer, 4-8-04
 
  #22  
Old 04-12-04, 09:04 PM
milli
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pt staining

Wow just when I thought I had a plan I hear more horror stories.....FEWALT ... I read the post you told me about posted on 4-8.... it makes me fearful to blindly try the Olympic stain..... Scrollmaster... I really enjoyed seeing the before and after pix and the decks look great... and that is with Olympic as well.... WOW///
I wonder if it could be the part of the US that made it discolor. Or if it was not dry enough??
Anyway please feel free to put more imput
the deck will be about 11 1/2 by 8 with a small portion going around my spa and it's pedestal
Well what I do know is I will let it dry out prior to doing anything..... How will I know when it is DRY
Also, has anyone heard of using a colored sealer and not a stain
millicent
 
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Old 04-13-04, 05:26 AM
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Milli,

Unfortunately, pt lbr is usually bought wet due to the chremical process. I'm not sure about the newer AC2 pt lumber, but I'm guessing it s still wet when bought also. Wait at least two weeks for the surface to dry before finishing.

"sealer" is really a misnomer. After a deck is insrtalled, it can't be sealed, because we normally only finish the top surface. And film based finishes(acrylic and latex) only seal the surface and will peel in a year or two. This is due to moisture in the wood - now or from wicking and absorbing from underneath and ends.

Remember. pt lumber is going to last probably 15 years or more. (My one deck was built in '78 - it looks bad but the 2x6 lumber is still structurally sound.
SO, the real reason we stain, etc. is for aesthetics and ease of maintenance, not really to preserve the wood. I only recommend oil base penetrating toned stains.

Lefty actually gave you a good suggestion. For your small deck, have you considered composites?? If I were to replace my older deck it would be with a composite surface with comp. or vinyl ballusters and rails. I used a composite for the small deck/walkway up at my pond, Epoch's Evergrain. It has a nice wood grain surface and it will only need to be cleaned occasionally.

fred
 
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Old 04-13-04, 06:01 AM
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milli-

Yes, geography makes a difference. Sacramento is even worse than San Jose during the summer. Those long, hot, days with no rain between Apr/May and Nov/Dec. are brutal on decks.

If you can learn to like the appearance, a composite deck would probably be a better way to go.
 
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Old 04-13-04, 04:27 PM
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A small deck like yours (8 X 11) is going to cost less than $200 for the decking material if you were to opt for one of the composites. You might have to add a few joists, depending on how far apart yours are now, but that's less than $100. Spend $250 to $300 on it once and be done with it. That just make sense to me.

WHICH composite you choose (there are something like 35 or 40 of them out there!) will determine what it looks like and how much it costs. With Meeks right there in Rocklin, you can look at 8 or 10 different brands, and they probably have brochures on 8 or 10 others.

Just something else for you to think about.
 
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Old 04-14-04, 08:20 PM
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Dude $200 No way, 8 1/2 x 11.

I just bought today materials for a 8'x5' PT deck and it cost me $479.83.

Granted the deck is 3' off the ground and I will be using a post and rail railing and a 4' wide staircase. Ohh and I'm also using 2x10 for framing and of course 2x12 for my stairjacks.

But there is noway he can build a deck that size w/composites for under $200
 
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Old 04-14-04, 08:31 PM
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WHOA kennylonif --

Read my post again. I said "The decking material" (in a composite) would run under $200. That doesn't include all of the framing material to build the deck!

The DECKING MATERIAL for your 5 X 8 deck (40 sq. ft.) shouldn't have been over $75. The framing material, the stuff to build the railings, and probably some steps -- sure -- that's going to be in addition to the decking material.

$480 for the material to build a 40 sq. ft. deck from the ground up -- you didn't do too bad!
 
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Old 04-15-04, 06:54 AM
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Originally posted by fewalt
Re: the Olympic Maximum,

read the post by Scromer, 4-8-04
Hey Fred,
Interesting experience with Olympic Maximum. Don't know what the difference is but I haven't been unhappy so far the times I've used it. Seems to give three years on the button. My present deck is completely shaded and receives some but not a lot of sun. My mom & dad's deck and my former deck are totally exposed and each made three years. All these were PTP and not cedar. I used a good deck cleaner and on before initial staining and stripped and renewed before subsequent restains and followed can directions.
I do want to try the Wolmans though. If I can get more than three years it would be nice. I've been tempted to try the new composited deck stain but would rather wait till the smaller deck needs restaing and try it there because of the initial expense of the product.
Thanks,
Dennis
 
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Old 04-15-04, 04:40 PM
milli
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pt lumber staining....

I went on the Cabot web site and was told just to let the lumber dry out for about 3 weeks b4 staining.... use a semi transparent stain.... and make sure the ends of the boards are stained and sealed as well as the boards themselves. I'm stuck between Cabot and Olympic.
Why should you use a cleaner prior to the initial stain?
I'm going to price the composite 2x4's and 2x6's today and tomorrow and just see how much more they would be.
thanks
 
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Old 04-15-04, 07:33 PM
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Re: pt lumber staining....

They will be more expensive initially but not that bad on a smaller deck and not having to spend time and money restaining every 2-3 years is worth something as well.

As for using a cleaner on a new deck... It just cleans oils and grime, etc on the lumber from the mill to distributor to the lumber yard to you, not to mention the construction process itself. I've never stained a new deck without using a cleaner first. I used the Olympic Deck Cleaner last time and worked very well but really prefer to use something without chlorine.
 
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Old 04-16-04, 04:49 AM
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Good advice from Scrollmaster,

I don't like to use chlorine bleach either (actually bleaches color out of the wood), but I do like the oxygenated bleaches.
Sodium percarbonate, much safer to use!

Milli,
You may have some problem finding 2x composites. Most of the decking material is 5/4.
The Evergrain I used had to be pre-drilled for deck screws. It was as hard as a rock. I threw a small piece in the pond to see if it would show any swelling, Well, the stuff is so dense - it sank.

Scrollmaster - 2 to 3 yrs is about it for any stain. Alot depends on surface prep and of course, exposure to the elements.
There are a couple products (regional) that allow recoating after a year or so, but I have not tried them.
Here is a contractor forum you may be able to view w/o logging in:
http://www.deckcare.org/forums/index.php?s=

fred
 
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