Planning a deck

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-19-04, 07:09 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ashland, MA
Posts: 237
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Planning a deck

OK, I am beginning on planning my deck and will be removing the old crappy 8x10' beast that is there. I plan to build it myself and would like to really beef up my knowledge on the build. My neighbor knows the codes and should be able to help in that respect. My questions are:

1) If going 18 feet from the house, what do I need to do for footings? I was going to do footings at 8ft and 16ft with a 2 foot overhang. All 6x6 posts with 4ft deep poured sonotube.

2) Any good plans for a basically 1 level deck of that approximate dimension? 19' along the house and 18' out? I will do a 45degree set of steps at one corner away from the house (wide like 5 ft)

3) What to put under the deck to avoid water runoff (under) to move the dirt etc? I may also pour cement later on and make a small low level shed underneath.

4) Any other advice? Cost for basic materials (ballpark) for the 18' x 19' deck??

Thanks all. e3

By the way, I was going to do my own siding and you all helped me a ton to learn however, my wife's old high school friend reps for a guy and he is doing the siding for over $4Grand less than every other quote. His workmanship is beautiful. If in MA and want vinyl siding let me know. I am very impressed with his work and he came all weekend to keep the progress going.
 
  #2  
Old 04-23-04, 02:09 PM
pjb1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Beams at 8 and 16 are fine. My deck is 16' deep, and I put beams at 7&14 with a 2' cantilever. Used 2X8 joists - 16" O.C., and it is solid as a rock, no bounce. Yours will be a foot longer on the spans. You could always go 2X10 on the joists if your real picky on the vibration issue, but that's up to you. That 5' diagonal corner is going to need some pro help though. The normal rectangle with a 2' overhang and diagonal corners will only give you 2'10" length on the diagonals. Hardly enough. Sound like extra beams or posts and some fancy design. Can't help you there
 
  #3  
Old 04-23-04, 02:45 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ashland, MA
Posts: 237
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the help. A few nights ago, I went into design mode and drew up a plan. I am going to do a 2x10 ledger, posts at 10ft and 20ft from the house, use double 2x12 for the beams, and 20 ft full length 2x10 joists. I am not going to cantilever anything. I will invest in the time to dig all 6 footings and will have a solid fricken deck. The idea for the large 1 level deck is to have 2 + tables BBQs so I want the strength and NO bounce. Plus the build and the BOm is easier using full length joists. I also opted to NOT put the stairs at a 45 degree. It displaced a post and that messed me up, plus laying it out on the ground last night showed me the close proximity to the driveway with the steps and I want this to enter/exit from the front yard. (more inviting). So that made it easier. I am going to start laying it out, measuring it, and marking the holes positions. Got cement coming so I got work to do. Thanks for the help and any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. Peace: e3
 
  #4  
Old 04-26-04, 11:57 AM
pjb1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
How wide?

Sounds like your going with three posts per beam. How long are the beams? One extra footing per beam might help, and is not too much extra work.
 
  #5  
Old 04-26-04, 01:19 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ashland, MA
Posts: 237
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Not too much more work huh? Sorry, I am wicked sore from digging 6 4ft deep 12" footings yesterday. My hands hurt! Anyways the beams are 19 feet long so the span between the posts along the beams is 9.5 ft center to center. Then the 19.5 ft long deck is about the same in span between the posts. I swear when done, I can use this deck as a parking lot.
 
  #6  
Old 04-27-04, 02:23 PM
pjb1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Just a few more questions. Sounds like your posts are going all the way to the ends of the beam. Many designs have the beam sitting on top of the posts, and overhanging 12" to 18 ", so the posts are less visible on the sides of the deck. Also, is this deck going to be high off the ground? I was just wondering about the 12" footings. Most builders will use 10" or even 8". I can see where 12" holes would be tough. What did you use, a bobcat with a front end auger?
 
  #7  
Old 04-27-04, 06:29 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ashland, MA
Posts: 237
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I was going to do an overhang but decided wanted to bring the posts up (6x6) and use them for the railing system. That way it would be wicked strong. Also I plan to design (or use a design) some semi-reclining benches along the rail and wanted it real strong. I used the 12" footings because I wanted the wiggle room for placing the posts on top with the galvanized holder thingys (technical term). I actually just used a post hole digger (manual) and a 5 ft diamond bar to dig the 12" holes. My wrists and shoulders are sore but stronger from the work. I enjoy hard work but damn that sucked. 6 of them. I was planning on bolting the beams on each side of each post and then the joists on top of them. I was going to do 2x12" beams but may settle for 2x10s to make cutting easier.

My neighbor did an overhang and his deck looks nice but I am thinking about how this is a pretty good sized 1 level deck and wanted the strength to put a ton of people on it. And who knows, maybe down the road I need to just do a little bit of beefing up to accomodate a hot tub.
 
  #8  
Old 04-29-04, 02:39 PM
pjb1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
With a "ton of peole" and that long between posts, go with the 2X12' beams. Good point on the wiggle room. It always helps. Once you put youre strings back up to find the center of those footings, you will be surprised on how much you drifted off center when digging your holes. I had five footings, five feet apart, and used 8" tubes and 4X4's. I was very carfull to be centered on the holes. I barely made it on a couple. Hit a rock, and that auger can drift an inch or so and you nver know it. Good Luck.
 
  #9  
Old 05-12-04, 10:57 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Ashland, MA
Posts: 237
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the help folks. I am almost ready to starting putting down the decking boards. I used all 2x10" joists, beams, ledger. I used 6x6 posts and 12" sonotubes. I just finished 1/2" lag bolts on the ledger, beams last night and am on my way. I will be putting a row of blocking this week between the joists beforehand too. I decided not to bring the 6x6 posts up as railing posts. I did rest the beams on the posts though. Should be a pretty strong mofo. My new question is:

1) With the new PT lumber (I think it is impregnated with copper?) what should I use for the decking screws (material) and how long will my bolts/nails last in the frame? (hot dipped glavanized)

Thanks: e3
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: