Composite Decking

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Old 07-29-04, 07:34 AM
fpuma
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Composite Decking

I am looking to install a Timbertech composite deck. The deck I am looking at will be 22x16. What is a rought price for the decking planks I need. Do these come in 22 foot lengths? I would love to be able to cut out the seems. Are their railing systems really expensive?

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Old 07-29-04, 12:28 PM
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The best thing you can do is call your local dealer for Timbertech and have them quote you the prices you are looking for.

There is so much variance in the prices of wood/composite lumber across the nation that the only way you'll get accurate pricing is to call a dealer.
 
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Old 07-29-04, 08:38 PM
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I could be wrong but i believe the longest board is 20'. If you want to lay the planks longways along the 22' side, you could purchase 12 footers and place a seam in the middle. You'll have some waste but 22' is a hard # to work with when it comes to waste. This is what i mean by putting a seam in the middle of the deck. Measure to the 11' mark and use a board on edge to make your seam. You can either sandwich the board between 2 floor joists and make the height proper for the other intersecting boards to meet flush....or you could rip a board about an inch and a half and use that as a seam under a doubled joist. The latter is the way i layed out my 34' porch. It looks real clean that way and i'm happy with the way it looks. Just remember to leave an even space when the other boards meet this break (for expansion).

I know some people here will not like this way but i'm curious as to how they would lay it out without all those seams.

Another thing i found while doing this deck is this.... I wanted a "screwless deck" where you couldn't see any screwheads so i tried three fastening systems that enabled you to attach the boards either from underneath or between the seams. None of those fastening systems worked to my satisfaction. The "Tigerclaw" clips from Home Depot were the worst. They went into the sides of the boards with terrible difficulty. The other "side mount" system used a stainless clip that gets screwed into the sides of the boards near the point where the board meets the joist. Only problem with that system is you have to pre-drill the side mount holes....and you better make sure it goes in straight or you'll "bump" out the material in the plank which may be visible after you lay it in place. The other problem is the clips themselves. You see the shiny stainless clips between the planks after it's applied.
The 3rd fastening system is from "Deckmaster". This system utilizes a bracket that gets screwed to the joist, then the plank from underneath. The problem i had with this is when you screwed the plank down, it pulled the board. No good. ( I imagine this would work better with real wood planks)

So, the only alternative which everyone recommends against doing is using galvanized trim nails to fasten the planks down with. Screw what they said.....i used PL adhesive on the joist and tacked the boards down with a trim gun loaded with 2 1/2 galvanized trim nails. It went fast and you can't budge the planks and you hardly see those ugly holes caused by using screws. I just rubbed some material dust (from cutting the planks) in the nail holes and gently tapped using a wood dowel.

We'll see if this deck holds but i talked to three people who fastened their decks in this manner and after 4 yrs, the planks are still solid. Apparently it's working, but in the worst case scenario, if the boards become loose, then you screw them down and deal with those ugly holes.
 
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Old 07-29-04, 10:53 PM
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Every composite that I'm aware of comes in lengths of 12', 16' and 20'. No, you aren't going to get 22' boards. Don't put one seam down the middle -- it looks like really ugly brown stuff that smells bad!

I would do it with 12' and 16' boards, laying a 16' from one end and half a 12' to finish that line, then a 16' from the other end, and half a 12' to finish that line. All of your joints are going to fall on joists that are 6' in from an edge. Or just use 12's, and stagger the joints in a very random pattern. As long as no bord is less than 6' in length, it'll look and work very well for you. PLAN CAREFULLY!!
 
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Old 07-30-04, 06:14 PM
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I just was working with Geodeck composites and its all 12,16 and 20' lengths. Seems all the rest are the same. And yes the railings are DAMN expensive. 6' level railing is a bit over $100, 8' is around $150 and the stair railings are more then there level railing counterparts. The deck was 10x24, 2 sets of steps, 2 6' stair rail kits, 2 6' rail kits, 3 8' rail kits, 5 post sleeves, lots of 12" facia trim, all 20' T&G cut in half so there was 0 waste, plus the end plugs. All the framing was with KDAT (kiln dried PT). The total materials was around $3k. On a sidenote.. T&G is nice for hiding all the fasteners since its nailed with SS nails just like T&G wood. But.. it has to be 24"+ off the ground.
 
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Old 07-31-04, 08:14 PM
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When i'm finished with my porch, i'll post pics and then you can tell me if it looks like crap.
 
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Old 08-05-04, 09:31 AM
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Buyer beware problems w/ wood flour composites

Before you buy a wood flour based composite, please read the articles at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. One in particular is a link to the national class action suit against Trex (must reading).
 

Last edited by twelvepole; 11-20-04 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Link to personal commercial website
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Old 08-21-04, 02:35 PM
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Deckmaster

I used Deckmaster with Rhino composite decking per instructions and the pulling was not a problem. By placing them on alternate sides the pulling from one counteracts the other. I also painted them flat black after installing them and you could not see the shining from the strips.
 
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