Stains, Paints, etc

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Old 07-01-05, 10:57 AM
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Stains, Paints, etc

I understand stain is the only way to go on horizontal deck surfaces, but on my privacy sides and rails, is paint so much worse than say an opaque stain? I hear the opaques are prone to peeling too. All I know is I sure see a lot of painted steps and railings in front yards. Painted houses too.

And what about marine spar varnishes or urethanes? Why good enough for a boat but not a deck?

Thanks,
confused
 
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Old 07-01-05, 04:22 PM
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I'd say my stain vs. paint decks was split about 50/50 last summer
I'm not sure why you think stain is the only way to go
I think either way is fine, just don't get the cheap stuff from the big boxes

You could use marine quality finishes if you want
It's hardly worth the effort and expense on a deck though
The price of the product is kind of high for that much square footage
 
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Old 07-01-05, 06:34 PM
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Interesting. I'd just heard that paint is far more prone to peel than stain, since it sits on the surface rather than penetrates, so as the wood releases humidity it pushes the paint off. But I don't get why paint is good enough for a house but not a deck.

So let me ask you, if you wanted a solid color for your deck would you go with paint or stain? What's a good paint, something like an oil enamel or a latex? Should it be a "deck" paint?
 
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Old 07-02-05, 06:58 AM
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Ah I see
Well...that's all true, but I think it needs to be put into perspective
Paint is more prone to peel in as much as stain will not peel
However, properly applied and maintained quality deck paint shouldn't peel

A cheap slapped on stain won't "peel"
It may look like...not good, but it won't "peel"
A cheap slapped on paint could peel really fast

It really needs to be a deck paint as a deck has to put up with a lot of abuse
Foot traffic, direct sun, snow, standing water.....

If I wanted a solid color for my deck I'd have no hesitation in using Sikkens Rubold DEK

In fact, I don't don't think I've used anything else on customer's decks in years
If they want it painted that is
My customers and I have been very satisfied with it

It's an oil-based
I would not use a latex on a deck
(I do live in New England on the water so it's a but rough on decks)

Proper prep is a big part and you'll want to follow the directions

For stain I have used Cabot and Cabot prep products almost exclusively for years
Also oil-based
Excellent performance also
 
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Old 07-02-05, 07:53 PM
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Okay, thanks for the good info.

I've been debating my treatment and color scheme options for a while now. I live in a densely populated NJ suburb with lots of colonial houses, which IMO lends itself to a less rustic, more formal look. I also have high privacy sides on two of the three sides of the deck, with a "normal" 40" rail facing back. Everything abovce structural isknotty white cedar and clear red cedar.

In a perfect world I'd paint/stain the lower part of the privacy sides opaque gray to match the house, the upper lattice part white to match the trim, the spindles white to match the trim with the top rail stained brown to match the floor, and a rich brown transparent stain for the floor for contrast.

I'm just a bit afraid of the complexity, especially if it'll need to be redone every two years or so.

I think I'll start by using the Cabots since they offer an opaque and semi transparent option. I'll do the sides fully in gray opaque, and the entire rails and floor in semi transparent brown. Then the next time I can add in the white, as an opaque stain or paint if I desire.

Sound like a sensible plan? Will an opaque white stain cover a semi transparent brown, if thats how I chose to go later? And is there anyway to add a sheen or richness to the normal matte stains?
 
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