Old T+G porch replacement


Old 08-05-05, 04:50 PM
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Old T+G porch replacement

I live in Cleveland,Oh and my house was built in 1917. It had a front porch that was covered by a roof and awning, it consisted of T+G(painted) on a frame of 2x6s. Due to rot, I tore it off, replaced the frame/joists with PT 2x6 and laid down 1/2" PT plywood over that. there are rooms in my basementthat are underneath the porch. The new frame is pitched away from the house for water to run off.

My question is: what would you recommend to use for the flooring?
Do I go with T+G again and paint that? Is there something better for this application?
Thanks in advance for any insight.
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Old 08-06-05, 06:44 AM
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Personally I would go with either a composite decking, CorrectDeck would be my first choice. If that's too pricey for you, treated 5-1/4" boards would be a good choice as well.
Old 08-09-05, 09:06 AM
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Excellent, TY for the advice!
Old 08-10-05, 07:11 AM
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Whatever flooring you use, make sure to put down 30lb felt between it and the plywood.
Old 08-10-05, 04:40 PM
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Do not put any material (wood or composite) over plywood

Even with felt in between, the water will stay on the deck, cause mildew, rot, and you-name-it. Unless you completely close the porch in from wind, rain and snow you will have a problem.

If you want the rooms underneath dry, spaces between the deck boards just won't work.

There are some T&G composites meant for porches, but the requirements for pitch and amount of water they can handle, plus a pretty expensive price will give you 2nd thoughts.

Your original deck was probably made with 5/4 T&G pine and painted which was real common 50-100 yrs ago. This allowed the water to run off, but likely needed painted more often than was done and hence, the rot.

Recently, I helped a woman with a summer cottage near Lake Michigan redo a similar porch. By the way, this "cottage" is about 4,000 sq ft and the wrap around porch was 150 ft. The previous porch was just as yours was, (rotty and in continual need of repair) A nearby cottage used the T&G composite that I mentioned above and ripped it off the next year. To be fair, that application was parallel to the house, which does not allow water run off.

The solution was to use Tigerwood. Tiger may be a brand name as the wood is also sold under the label "Kingwood" If you ask at a lumber yard, have them check with their suppliers. (It's like IPE but lighter, with dark grain streaks). It is also kiln dried, unlike IPE, which is green. Nothing wrong with IPE, but Kiln drying made Tiger a better choice for T&G. The Tiger was 1x4 milled T&G. The net cost was about $1.85 per linear foot (remember this is 1x4, not 1x6). That puts it in the same price range of most composites.

Both sides of the wood were stained with a transparent stain. The excess stain was wiped off. Like IPE, it was wiped with lacquer thinner before coating. Additional coats of stain are a waste because they will not penetrate. This particular porch recieved a brownish stain. Against the turn og the century architecture, dusty rose siding of the house and grey trim, it looks beautiful and will last a long time. It will probably need stain every few years.

For this type of solution to work, the joist must be parallel to the house and the porch boards running perpendicular. There must be a slope. This porch is 10 ft wide and slopes about a 1-1/2" from the house to the front edge.
Old 08-10-05, 05:13 PM
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Thanks for all the information, I actually finished the job today but already had some of the T+G down before the post about the felt paper.(So no felt paper)
I went with 1x6x8 pine T+G, the boards are perpendicular to the house and have a decent pitch to them, used a Porta Nailer to nail them in.
Fortunately the porch faces in a way that rain almost never reaches it and only the worst snow storms seem to. Looks like I will just have to keep up on the maintainance to prevent future problems.
Again Thanks for all the input.

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