stain or just sealer?


  #1  
Old 08-25-05, 09:24 PM
netnet
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Smile stain or just sealer?

Hi all. A handy man came to give an estimate on our old cedar deck being powerwashed and sealed or stained today becasue I just bought my first house and do not have time or knowledge right now to do it myself. He said that although cabot is the top of the line, he still would not use a stain personally, but rather just a clear ROLL ON sealer because they are longer lasting than the sprays. His reasoning was that the stains peel after a while, or even if you don't wait for it to peel and you power wash it every year, the power washing makes it peel. Either way, you can never get en even nice stained look again becasue it's alwasy going to be stain on top of peeled stain and it won't look right in a few years. This makes sense but on the other hand I see so many people with nice colored decks. Is he telling me that everyone has this trouble or is there a way to maintain a stained color well through the years. Thank you so much for taking the time.
 

Last edited by netnet; 08-25-05 at 09:26 PM. Reason: typos
  #2  
Old 08-26-05, 04:45 AM
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I applied a clear finish to my cedar deck. The product will not peel and does not need to be sanded (or presurre washed) year after year before a re-application. I chose a clear finish to retian the natural colour of the cedar.

By the way, pressure washing your deck is not recommended as it damages the fibres of the wood.
 
  #3  
Old 08-26-05, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by netnet
Is he telling me that everyone has this trouble or is there a way to maintain a stained color well through the years. Thank you so much for taking the time.
I'm not sure what he's telling you, but I don't think it is %100 correct

He may not use a stain
I don't know why
I have been using stains on decks for years (...and years)
They last a long time
Much longer than any sealers I have used
Things like Thompsons Water Seal I have used at a customer's request
I was not impressed
At all

An older deck I especially would recommend a stain
Maybe a "clear" that has a slight tint to it if the cust. want "clear"
Older decks (IMO) don't look even with a true clear, but rather need a little tint to even them out

I live/work in a harsh environment for decks
Very wet foggy mornings, bright sun later, snow in the winter
It's tough on decks

I have never, ever, seen a stain peel
Even on well over due decks (often it's almost too late by the time they call me)
I've heard that it happens, I've just never seen it
On my work or on old decks that I'm to rescue
I've never had stain peel up when I've power-washed a deck

I have seen sealers peel up

I often stain over previously stained decks
That is easily more than 75% of my deck jobs

So, if that's your question, is it OK to stain my deck, then yes absolutely %100, I'd recommend it
I don't know what this guys talking about
I'd recommend Cabot oil-based stains, as they work well and last a long time, no peeling!
No offense to the guy, but I think I'd find someone else for the deck
The statement he made that I quoted above in incorrect
 
  #4  
Old 08-26-05, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by em69
By the way, pressure washing your deck is not recommended as it damages the fibres of the wood.
For routine maint. I would agree, avoid the PW if possible
Also for the average homeowner w/o PW experience I would agree, the fibers can easily be damged
Also for your cedar deck with a clear stain I would agree, I would avoid PW if at all poss.

But around here there are some decks that require it for routine maint.
I'm on the corner of river and ocean here, the land of rust and mildew
Sometimes it's un-avoidable

It's also a great way to prep a deck for a new finish
In the proper hands a PW can be used with no damage to the wood
 
  #5  
Old 08-26-05, 07:45 AM
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Clear sealers rarely ever last as long as stain. Generally the more pigment in the coating the longer it will last. As slickshift said stain does not peel. Pressure washing won't make it peel, however misuse [too much pressure - wrong tip] of a pressure washer can strip the stain/sealer from the deck. The handyman might prefer to use clear because it doesn't take the time/skill to get a good looking job.
 
  #6  
Old 08-27-05, 09:31 AM
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Just to add to the above comments... Stain or semi-transparent stain is cautioned to peel if it is applied too thick... so much that it doesn't soak in to the wood pores like it is suppose to.... when applied thick... it acts more like a paint.. sitting on the surface... which eventually peels.

It might just be the history on how you guy misued it. Most sealers aren't suppose to work as long as stains accross the board.
 
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Old 08-27-05, 04:45 PM
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Just to clarify as it appears I misinformed you...
I applied a stain, not a very dark one though. I called it "clear" but that was incorrect as it definitely changed the colour of the wood.
 
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Old 08-28-05, 08:24 AM
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So what exactly did you use?
 
  #9  
Old 08-28-05, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by em69
I applied a stain, not a very dark one though. I called it "clear" but that was incorrect as it definitely changed the colour of the wood.
Most of the "clear" stains I use have a bit of color in them
Even a true "clear" would change the color a bit though

I don't even call the "clear" stains clear to my customers, it just gets confusing
I say it has a slight golden-brown tint (or whatever I feel the "clear" lends to the wood)
 
  #10  
Old 08-28-05, 11:52 AM
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As slickshift said most clear stains/sealers will change the color of the wood. Even as poly/varnish will deepen the color and shine the wood so will clear sealers change the look of the lumber it is applied to.
 
  #11  
Old 08-28-05, 07:59 PM
PhilC
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Most brands have a selection of wood toned, semi-transperant, semi-solid, and solid color stains and nearly the same choices in Weatherproofing Wood Finish and WATERPROOFING WOOD FINISH (Water and Oil-based)

The choices can get confusing. One importantstep is to access the decks condition as it is. If it is severly wheathered or stained with discolored areas, than these must be considered. One way to test the wood is to pour some water on the deck and watch to see if it is absorbed or not. If it just beads then the deck will not have proper absorency to any new finish you decide.

I personally use Wheatherproofing oil-based wood toned transperant stain, which you can find in toned (Natural Cedar, Redwood, etc ) or clear finish. First though I use a midew remover or deck refinisher (stain remover) if needed and then a combo cleaner bightener conditioner, which preps the deck and opens the grain so the new finish absorbs evenly. All require only the use of a hose, possibly a brush and enough time to dry completely before moving on. You'd be surprised at how new appearing just using the cleaners will make your deck look. The penetrating oil-based wheatherproofer gives me the best of what I like, A good seal, slight color tone renewal, and long term water protection.

9 times out of 10 no preassure washer is needed, as they tend to do more damage than good, and remember that what I consider to be most important is the wood prep and cleaning prior to refinishing. And use a PENETRATING finish vs a film forming (semi-gloss, Gloss) as I have found them to last and wear much longer with no peeling worries.

Good Luck
 

Last edited by jst4advice; 08-28-05 at 08:13 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-09-10, 05:58 AM
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I have worked with Cedar for 35 years. You can try Sikkens.
 
 

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