Coronado vs Superdeck vs Cabot

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  #1  
Old 12-06-05, 09:34 AM
J
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Coronado vs Superdeck vs Cabot

OK. I have a brand new 850 sq ft. pressure treated deck (Southern Pine - bought at Lowe's). the decking boards are 2" x's (if that matters). Deck boards have been down between 1 - 2 months. I have built in benches. I have a lot of wood.

I need to seal/stain the deck. I have read and read. I know I am going to use a stain (rather than a paraffin-based Thompson or Olympic water sealer).

I am comparing Coronado's Maxum line of products with those of Superdeck and Cabot (my local paint store dealer first offered the Maxum and only showed the other brands when I asked, as if they were pushing the Maxum).

The paint store told me I will need to pressure wash and "clean" (with a cleaner they said I can buy from them) to remove the "Mill" finish (green color) from the PT wood (with a month of sun and little rain, much of the "green" color has now faded anyway)

I really like the reddish color of Heart Pine wood and am thinking of Semi-Transparent stain, but a clear would be fine too as I want the wood grain to show through (I like nice wood grain).

Now because of the surface area I am conquering, I really want to minimizing the amount of reapplication I have to do in the future and more importantly, I want a product that can be applied easily.

So the Maxum line comes in a 1) Sheer Naturals Translucent Deck Stain with "core/shell" technology 2) Maxum Semi-transparent Deck Stain & 3) Maxum Solid Color 100% acrylic Deck Stain (I really want to avoid this one as I think it would hide too much of the natural grain).

The Maxum line (so they say) has excellent open time, lap resistance, substrate wetting allowing applications over previously coated wood with oil-based stains (not an issue for me), wet wood friendly (may be a big issue as the North GA winter rains have started), Low Temp Cure, freeze/thaw stable, and of course, ideal for PT wood.

The Superdeck brand claims beautiful finish, penetrating oils, mildew resistance, water damage protection, Extreme UV protection, and ONE-COAT coverage. Superdeck comes in 1) Transparent, 2) Semi-transparent, and 3) Pressure-treated forumula (which does not say whether it is clear or semitransparent, or even opaque).

Cabot sells 1) waterproofing (which is a silicone sealer and I imagine about as much use to me as "T" or "O" brand sealers); 2) clear solution (oil or water based transulcent finish); 3) Deck staining (oil based and apparently either clear, semitransparent, or even more opaque); and 4) Solid color decking stain.

So my questions are:
1) Does anyone have an opinion on the three companies listed above or have a suggestion for another manufacturer I might consider looking into.

2) should I go with an oil or water based stain (what are the adv/disadv of both). Remember I want longevity, but also with an 850 sq ft area I also want ease of application)

3) I have not read anywhere on this forum (although I have not read all 75 pages of deck advice, but thanks) any talking about pressure washing or cleaning brand new boards to remove this so called "Mill finish". I do agree it is a good idea to remove lumber yard markings and other "stains" acquired during installation. But what exactly do I need. For example, Superdeck has a Wood Cleaner (probably what I need), a wood stripper (probably not what I need at this time) and a wood brightener (which I imagine is an oxalic acid based cleaner to remove rust and other stains.... i.e., so called "wood bleach"). Cabots carries the same three "cleaning" products.

4) can anyone give pro's and con's to different application methods (roller, sprayer, heaven forbid a brush)........

5) finally what about the underside of the deck such as the framing boards. Is it just the surface of the deck boards that need application or do I need to try and get to the frame boards and the underside of the deck boards. Will it hurt the deck to not have that part sealed? Underside application might be possible if I can spray applicate, but if I have to brush or roll, then "there ain't no way"..........

Thanks in advance for your consideration,
Sincerely
J
 
  #2  
Old 12-07-05, 07:57 AM
M
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#1 - I have only used a little of corondo products and wasn't impressed BUT I may have only used their cheaper coatings. I'm not familiar with superdeck. Cabot has some good stains.

#2 - Depending on the region oil stain usually has better protection but when I worked in fla I found that alot of sun can be hard on oil and the latex out preformed. There are also waterborne stains like SWPs deckscapes.

#3 - Clean surfaces stain/paint the best. If you use a clear or transparent stain you might want to use a deck brightner.

#4 - Spray is usually easiest but care has to be taken to not coat anything but the deck. It also usually works best when using clear or translucent stains. If you roll you will still need a brush for some areas also depending on the finish the rolled portion may need to be brushed out so everything looks uniform [not usually necesary]

#5 - It is always better to coat the underside but the majority of decks have no stain on the underside.

The heavier the stain the more and longer the protection. A solid color stain will outlast a transparent stain but I prefer seeing the grain and usually save the solid stain for an old well weathered deck. The price of the coating is usually a reflection of how long it will last.
 
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Old 12-07-05, 02:20 PM
J
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thanks

Thanks Mark.
I guess the most difficult thing I have found is actually figuring out the differences between the three stain making companies, as in what is the actual difference in their formula and is there any evidence to suggest one might out perform another.

Unfortunately, to my knowledge, there is not a "consumer reports" web site for paints and paint companies. That would sure make thing easier. Of course, I have a couple of degrees in Chemistry, so I might understand/have an interest in some of the technical aspects more so than the average DIYer. I will probably end up buying based on price, availability at the local paint store, and "colors" available (semi-transparent at the most).

I will let eveyone know my experiences. In the meantime, I see a handful have read this thread, so if you have any comments, suggestions, experiences, I would most appreciate them.

Thanks again
J
 
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Old 12-07-05, 06:44 PM
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Don't forget the old adage 'you get what you pay for' Not a steadfast rule but usually the more a deck coating costs the longer it will last. Cheaper is not cheaper if you have to do it more often.
 
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Old 12-08-05, 07:17 AM
J
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yeah, by "based on price" meant that I will likely buy the more expensive of the options........

I may shop frequently in the big boxes, but when I buy outside, it is because I am looking for or need the quality and realize that to get the highest quality I often have to pay the higher price...... of course, shopping around is always worth the phone call.... and I have found you can actually haggle in this country (done it a lot in the Carribbean) when two high end stores offer the same product. You just tell them what you are going to pay for the same product at the other store and somehow, 50+% of the time, they are able to meet or beat that very price........

Does spraying really get the same coverage and "coating" that rolling or brushing provides? I am not that worried about getting the stain on the ground around the deck as I have major landscaping to do following the project.
 
  #6  
Old 12-08-05, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jaymes
....Does spraying really get the same coverage and "coating" that rolling or brushing provides?


It depends. More material can be applied with spray BUT it is also possible to get coverage with less material. When practical I like to spray a heavy coat and then use a roller to help work it in. Sometimes when applying this way you will spray another light coat over the rolled out finish.
 
 

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