Flashing to Deck under Sunroom
#1
06-04-06, 05:42 PM
Flashing to Deck under Sunroom
Hi,
I attached a ledger board 3 inches below my sunroom which is built on top of a deck. I have 2 - 6 ft sliders and siding the rest of it. I took off the old trim board and lowered the new ledger board of the new deck 3 inches for drainage.
My question: How to I get the flashing between the sliders/siding and between the old deck. I bought a 20 ft by 8 inch roll of copper flashing at Lowe's. I really want to get under the slider/siding and down the old ledger of the old deck and wrap it over the new ledger board of the new deck. Also, if I can get under slider/siding how far do I need to go 1/4 inch, 1 inch, etc.
Any solution would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I attached a ledger board 3 inches below my sunroom which is built on top of a deck. I have 2 - 6 ft sliders and siding the rest of it. I took off the old trim board and lowered the new ledger board of the new deck 3 inches for drainage.
My question: How to I get the flashing between the sliders/siding and between the old deck. I bought a 20 ft by 8 inch roll of copper flashing at Lowe's. I really want to get under the slider/siding and down the old ledger of the old deck and wrap it over the new ledger board of the new deck. Also, if I can get under slider/siding how far do I need to go 1/4 inch, 1 inch, etc.
Any solution would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#2
06-04-06, 06:47 PM
Group Moderator
That's a hard one to call without seeing it. It's very likely that your door has been sealed to the subfloor with sealant, and you won't be able to tuck anything underneath it. It's also possible that you might have a pan flashing underneath your door. If that's the case, any flashing you add underneath the door would only have to go behind the face of the pan flashing.
So I guess the first thing I'd suggest is that you tear off any siding or ledger that is underneath the door, and get back to the building paper or sheathing.
If the door was installed correctly, you "should" be able to cut the building paper horizontally about 2 or 3" below the door threshold, and simply tuck the flashing underneath the building paper.
If there is no building paper below the door, and no pan flashing under the door, well then we call that "out of luck". The best thing you could do is lay the flashing against the sheathing up to the bottom of the door and seal the top edge as best as you can with sealant.
The problem with trying to tuck underneath the door is that it will do absolutely no good if you can't seal the front edge. If you tuck under the door and don't seal the front edge well, you'll actually be helping to direct water under the door- the exact opposite of what you are trying to accomplish. So in my opinion, it will be better for you to lay the flashing flat against the house, and get it as high as you can under the threshold (in the event there is no existing flashing or building paper) so that you can seal it. In many cases, the bottom of the threshold will be "hollow" and your metal will actually be able to go up into the threshold and will be above the level of the floor inside.
It's a tricky detail to do when the door is already installed, so you just have to do the best you can. Good luck. And good idea about dropping the ledger.
So I guess the first thing I'd suggest is that you tear off any siding or ledger that is underneath the door, and get back to the building paper or sheathing.
If the door was installed correctly, you "should" be able to cut the building paper horizontally about 2 or 3" below the door threshold, and simply tuck the flashing underneath the building paper.
If there is no building paper below the door, and no pan flashing under the door, well then we call that "out of luck". The best thing you could do is lay the flashing against the sheathing up to the bottom of the door and seal the top edge as best as you can with sealant.
The problem with trying to tuck underneath the door is that it will do absolutely no good if you can't seal the front edge. If you tuck under the door and don't seal the front edge well, you'll actually be helping to direct water under the door- the exact opposite of what you are trying to accomplish. So in my opinion, it will be better for you to lay the flashing flat against the house, and get it as high as you can under the threshold (in the event there is no existing flashing or building paper) so that you can seal it. In many cases, the bottom of the threshold will be "hollow" and your metal will actually be able to go up into the threshold and will be above the level of the floor inside.
It's a tricky detail to do when the door is already installed, so you just have to do the best you can. Good luck. And good idea about dropping the ledger.
#3
06-05-06, 05:35 AM
Thanks for the reply XSleeper.
There is no paper. The sliders each have a tube of sealant on the bottom. The bottom of the slider was used as the drip edge for the 3/4 trimboard. Also, there are 3 -2 foot sections of siding and those have each have drip edge flashing tucked under the siding for the 3/4 trimboard.
I will take the flashing as high as I can and seal between the slider/siding and new flashing. The cheap copper flashing I bought at Lowe's does that need paper behind it. The old deck is 12 years old and the new ledger board is ACQ.
There is no paper. The sliders each have a tube of sealant on the bottom. The bottom of the slider was used as the drip edge for the 3/4 trimboard. Also, there are 3 -2 foot sections of siding and those have each have drip edge flashing tucked under the siding for the 3/4 trimboard.
I will take the flashing as high as I can and seal between the slider/siding and new flashing. The cheap copper flashing I bought at Lowe's does that need paper behind it. The old deck is 12 years old and the new ledger board is ACQ.
