Countless Questions: staining PT deck

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Old 09-02-08, 05:19 PM
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Question Countless Questions: staining PT deck

Okay, so I built a pressure treated deck 13 months ago off the back of my house, facing north, a part of which surrounds an above ground salt water pool. I have not treated the wood at all, but I would like to get it stained before this winter. A ton of questions: Do I need to worry about a mill glaze cleaning solution after its been exposed for so long? Should I simply lightly sand with 80 grit paper. Perhaps I should skip this step and simply use a wood brightener. Or skip all of these steps and simply power wash (700 psi). I've narrowed it down to Sikkens or Superdeck, but which is best? I've heard I can simply recoat over the Superdeck when required, but I's have to strip the Sikkens each time. And should I consider Cabot or Olympic? I'm thinking transparent/tranlucent, but will it stand up? I'm thinking "natural" or "cedar", but will the cedar actually turn out too dark (as seems to be the case with PT wood) - I'm really just looking for that "wet" look with lots of wood grain showing through....
 
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Old 09-03-08, 03:31 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

Either sanding or washing is needed before staining - I'd wash because it's easier and unless all the nails are countersunk - you'll go thru a lot of sandpaper.

I normally wet the deck, spray on a bleach/water solution and then rinse with a pressure washer. Pressure washing alone may be good enough [depending what the wood looks like] but care must be used so you don't damage the wood with too much pressure.

I've not used silkens or superdeck [that I remember] but both have a good reputation. Since I buy most of my coatings at SWP, I usually use their waterborne deck scapes. It is best not to buy any coatings at a big box because they usually stock the coatings with the lowest price = lesser quality

Generally the heavier and more pigment the coating has, the longer it will last. Price is usually a good indicator of quality.
 
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Old 09-03-08, 05:07 AM
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The Sikkens and Superdeck are both around $55 Cdn ($60USD), but I can pick them up with my discount around $40 Cdn; both single coat applications and covers around 250 Sq Ft. I've been told that with the Sikkens, I'd have to remove or strip it clean when the time comes to reapply, but with the Superdeck, as it fades all I need to do is simply reapply another coating - sounds easier. Plus, the Sikkens Cedar looks pretty "orange" and doesn't seem to be as "translucent" for showing the wood grain (I've tested a couople of boards). Any opinions out there?

Thanks to all,
Paul
 
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Old 09-03-08, 01:40 PM
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SWP's waterborne sealers/stains need to be stripped before recoating........ but it really depends on how it's weathered. The way these type stains are formulated, they must be recoated [as in 2nd coat] with in a specfic time frame or you must wait until it is either worn away from weather or stripped. These types of sealers do an excellant job of repelling moisture but it also prevents subsequent coats from bonding to it. I think this is true of all waterborne stains but I don't know for sure.

The stains labeled translucent or toner will show more wood grain/color than a semi-transparent stain. Solid stains give the best protection but they look similiar to paint.

It can be hard to estimate coverage with deck stains. It is really dependent on the condition of the wood. New, tightly grained wood will take less stain [sometimes 300-350 sq ft per gal] while an older very porous deck may only get 150 sq per gallon. Obviously the heavier the coat you apply [and still look good] the longer it should last.
 
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Old 09-04-08, 06:22 PM
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There is a company up here with a stain salled SANSIN that I considered, that is water based. But, I have been warned to stay away from water borne stains? I was told to look for "oil and alkyd resin formulas", which I believe the Olympic, Sikkens and Cabot stains all contain.

The Superdeck brochure says, "The three oil finish contains linseed and tung oils....and transparent oxide pigments and a high solids formula that penetrates deep into the wood", blah, blah,blah. It would be really nice not to have to strip and just have to clean/sand and reapply as the stain fades or loses its water repellant. I'll double check with the store/manufacturer and let you know. Maybe, I'm dreaming.

By the way, what is SWP?
 
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Old 09-05-08, 03:54 AM
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SWP = sherwin williams paint

Most of my painting experience is in the S.E.USA. Here the sun can be hard on oil base coatings [especially florida] Years ago, oil base was superior to latex but water based coatings have improved while oil base may not be quite as good as it used to be due to gov't regulations. When I lived/worked in fla I learned first hand that latex would outlast oil base - but fla has some intense sun!

I don't know if the same is true in your neck of the woods. It is always best to get advice locally. You might inquire at a few localpaint stores as to which type of stain will last/protect the longest.
 
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Old 09-08-08, 04:44 PM
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The professionals would say:

PW and use the Superdeck
(bleach raises the grain)


fred
(used to PW pt and be on a number of pw forums)
 
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Old 09-09-08, 03:28 AM
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Too strong of a bleach solution will destroy wood fibers but a bleach solution is a good inexpensive cleaning agent for decks - especially if there is any mildew! Bleach water solution should never be stronger than 50/50.

Too much pressure [wrong tip, too close to wood, etc] can also hurt the wood, most notably by making it 'fuzzy' The only fix is sanding = more work
 
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Old 09-09-08, 03:38 AM
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Sodium percarbonate would still be a better agent.
fred
 
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Old 09-14-08, 06:13 PM
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Okay. Away for a while. Received the replies - thank you.
So, I purchased Superdeck's Cleaner, although I may not have needed to. It contains: Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, and Sodium Metasilicate. I cleaned a few boards from the back steps, rinsed and tested them with a couple of stains from the store: Superdeck's Natural, Golden Valley, and Cedar. And I also tried Sikkens Cetol SRD Cedar (had a can around that I had purchased to stain some deck furniture, but never opened). So, too much of the PT green shows through the Natural; and the Golden Valley wasn't much different. Both the Superdeck and Sikkens Cedar look good and are "warmer" to the eye. I noticed that the Superdeck seems to bring out the grain more and has a bit of sheen to it, while the Sikkens is more of a flat "matte" type finish. Any experience or opinions between these and should I look at Cabot's Australian Timberwolf?
 
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Old 09-14-08, 06:55 PM
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The Pro's would use the Superdeck.
if you like it, use it.

fred
 
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Old 09-15-08, 03:30 PM
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Question

I know that it is largely a personal preference, but if it were you, would use the "Natural" or the "Cedar"?

Also, a fabulous landscaper installed a paverstone patio that wraps around the west and back (north) sises of my house, leading up to this deck that surrounds my pool. I have heard that there are sealers or clear stains that are made for concrete and patios What is the purpose of this - to seal the pavers/patio?? And how does this affect the natural ebb and flow of the frost in the spring?
 
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Old 09-15-08, 04:56 PM
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I prefer natural or a little darker/browner but it is all about personal preference

I very seldom use any clear masonary sealers. When I do, I go by job specs [if any] or I discuss the job with the paint rep at my local paint store.
 
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Old 09-19-08, 03:54 PM
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Question

So, I'm running out of sunny days and we just dried out after the remnants of Hurricane Ike passed through a few days ago. I'm running out of sunny dry days to get this done. I was originally going to apply a wood cleaner to the deck and then PW clean, let dry for two days and then apply the stain with the hopes that at least 24 hours would pass after applying the stain before any rainfall. Although our local forecast isn't calling for any rain for 6 days (perfect), I'm curious if I can make this process much simpler, but it may involve a little more sweat. Do you think I can get away with just a light sanding of everything with 60 to 80 grit paper, then blow the deck clean with a leaf blower, then apply Superdeck stain??? This way, I'm not pumping more chemicals into the wood, and I don't have to wait 2 days for the moisture content to come back down. Daytime hghs are expected to be around 75 to 80.
 
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Old 09-22-08, 04:49 AM
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Sorry for the delay in getting back to you - I've been on vacation

Without seeng your deck it is a little hard to give a good answer although the wood will accept the stain ok without PWing and there shouldn't be any adhession issues after a light sanding. It may or may not affect how it looks.
 
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Old 09-22-08, 05:05 AM
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Marksr,
I had already Pm'd PaulEd, but it too was a bit late - I was on a golf trip to Pinehurst.
He found what I suspected by sanding, some of the boards were slightly cupped and the sanding results were uneven.
I suggested he PW to lighten/clean the entire deck before staining.

fred
 
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Old 09-23-08, 07:07 PM
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Hi guys,

Well, after spending the better part of a day tightening down all the deck screws to be properly recessed by 1/8 inch. Then I spent the better part of a day sanding by hand with a pole sander and 50 grit paper. It did a beautiful job of bringing out the grain, but as Fewalt mentioned is was a bit inconsistent because of minor cupping in some boards. So, the next day I cleaned the wood with Superdeck's wood cleaner, following the directions carefully, (applied by brush to a wet deck, let sit for 25 minutes while mist spraying to keep moist, then manually scrub clean using a scrub brush, and then PW completely with a low 500 PSI at 45 degrees no closer than 2 feet). It has now been dry for two days and looks absolutely awesome with no inconsistencies that jump out at you. Plan on manually brushing on a thin coat of Superdeck's Cedar PT Transparent Stain on Thursday. Forecast has nor rain for the next few days! I'll try to get before and after photos up.

Thanks for all of your help!
 
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Old 09-24-08, 04:20 AM
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It might make your job faster/easier if you put the stain on with a roller [small section at a time] and then brush it out.
 
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Old 09-24-08, 04:37 AM
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The last thing I want is too thick of a coating because I fear that I might end up with "pooling" and a "tacky" look, especially with any boards that a re cupped. I figured that a roller may apply too much stain, where with a brush I control how much goes on. I'm probably too anal, as I can always back brush the roller application as you say, but my plan was to apply by brush as long as it takes.

Forecast has changed though, expecting rain in two or three days, so I should start today and maybe a roller would speed things up. Are my fears with the roller founded do you think?

Thanks
 
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Old 09-24-08, 04:44 AM
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It is possible to apply a thicker coat using a roller although thicker usually = longer life. You should be able to control the amount you apply - maybe don't get as much stain on the roller cover or brush it out a little further.

If it looks good while wet it should look fine when dry.
 
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Old 09-25-08, 04:52 PM
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Eleven and a half hours with a brush, non-stop -- and it's done at 8 pm Thursday night. Forecast is 60% chance of rain on Saturday..........hope it dries enough.
 
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Old 09-26-08, 03:59 PM
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much more "orange" than I thought. should have gone with the "golden oak" or "natural" i guess. oh well, next time
 
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