Is this high price for a DECK ????

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Old 10-01-08, 02:25 PM
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Is this high price for a DECK ????

the deck will be 8 foot off the ground and attatched to the house. it will be all wood and NO STAIRS. it will be 210 square feet 14 x 15. they are charging me $4400 for just labor; which is about 21 bucks a square foot.
they said material will probably be about 2000?
also i want a sliding door put in which will lead to the deck; they have to put a whole in the wall,frame out the door and install it. they are charging me an extra 1500 for that.
1500 is JUST labor.
 
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Old 10-01-08, 02:58 PM
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Well, I'll comment on the door.

IMO, thats actually pretty much on the mark. If it was replacing a door, or changing a window to a door, then it would be high. But if they do it right, that involves removing siding and/or drywall, new header, framing, flashing, replacing/repairing interior and exterior, interior and exterior trim, permits. Mat'l is maybe $100 or so, not incl the door. This is assuming common int and ext mat'ls, no brick or plaster.

One suggestion, do not go cheap on the door, you'll regret it. Andersen Narrowline (or equivalent) at a minimum.

Just my take


EDIT: Thought of this on the way to the store and back. I'd much rather have a deck builder do my deck, and a carpenter do my door. Not that a deck builder might not be a great carpenter and vice versa. I'd just prefer someone who specializes in a field do the work, if I was hiring it out. Might also make a diff in the prices quoted as well. And good advise from Lefty...could be 10% diff in pricing depending on workload.
 

Last edited by Gunguy45; 10-01-08 at 03:35 PM. Reason: add thoughts
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Old 10-01-08, 03:20 PM
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taser,

The only GOOD way for you to find out if that estimate is high or if it's reasonable is to get a couple of others to compare it to.

On the surface, it seems to be on the high side to me, but I'm in an area with low labor costs. A bid for a deck or patio cover that I do here would probably double if I were to bid the same project in the SF Bay area -- only 200 miles away!
 
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Old 10-01-08, 03:42 PM
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I agree,

Always get three or four estimates.

fred
 
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Old 10-02-08, 06:20 PM
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Here on the right coast and in our area specifically decks 8' high and lower will run about $24-28 a square foot (materials and labor using PT lumber). But we have so few that low to the ground, we have to almost do them on a materials/labor type bid.
 
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Old 10-03-08, 05:38 PM
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taser,

Tell us more --

At 8 feet off the ground you've GOT to have railing. Was that included in their labor bid??

If so, it's making their bid sound pretty cheap!! (Expect to pay as much for the railing as you do for the deck. Railing costs usually blow most homeowners away!)
 
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Old 10-04-08, 05:58 AM
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Mike's right. And depending on how elaborate that balustrade is, the cost is affected. I do deck additions on new houses once the owners move in and feel they need more. One deck builder I follow insists on a 3-2-3-2 baluster configuration with 1 1/2" between the 3-2 groupings and 4" between the set. He uses 3 times the number of balusters needed, but in order to make it match, I have to figure that extra cost in, at $1 per pop, so it can get expensive.
 
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Old 10-12-08, 08:02 AM
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You can always save some short term money, by doing it yourself.

Other then that it sounds like a pretty decent quote for the labor involved. What you may feel is easy and won't take long, may be labor intensive and people that work doing this for a living need to make a livable wage and a profit for the business to stay in business.
 
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Old 10-13-08, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by chandler View Post
Mike's right. And depending on how elaborate that balustrade is, the cost is affected. I do deck additions on new houses once the owners move in and feel they need more. One deck builder I follow insists on a 3-2-3-2 baluster configuration with 1 1/2" between the 3-2 groupings and 4" between the set. He uses 3 times the number of balusters needed, but in order to make it match, I have to figure that extra cost in, at $1 per pop, so it can get expensive.
Chandler, could you explain what this means? I just installed balusters on the deck I'm building - I just figured out the spacing based on the code (must be less than 4") and maximum equal spacing. Worked out to 3 9/16 or 3 3/4 depending on the run. What's a 3-2-3-4 config?
 
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Old 10-13-08, 10:30 AM
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too much

at eight feet off the ground make sure they are using 6x6 post instead of 4x4, in my experience you should be able to get the labor for no more than the price of materials. this is really a simple project, have you considered doing it yourself?
 
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Old 10-13-08, 11:08 AM
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Craftydad....could be wrong but I think chandler was talking about something like this.... (hope this is clear). The capital "I's" are ballusters.

III-II-III-II----III-II-III-II as opposed to I----I----I----I----I

Very fancy but laborious and much more material.


Edit....hmmmmm didn't show up correctly. Lets try some dashes instead of spaces.
 

Last edited by Gunguy45; 10-13-08 at 11:11 AM. Reason: example not clear
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Old 10-13-08, 04:15 PM
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Exactly right, GG, thanks for the demonstration and superior graphics.
ALOT more materials and a PITA to install.
 
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Old 10-14-08, 04:42 AM
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So you actually gang together 3 balusters side-by-side, with no spacing... then a 1.5" space... then a gang of 2 balusters... then a 1.5" space, then repeat ... and then a 4" space before the next set? ??? I've never seen this before... sounds like it's a decorative privacy railing? Any pics of what this turned out like? It wouldn't work for me and the wifey... we wanted maximum "seeage" through the railings... I'd of used long toothpicks if they were stong enough :-)

Hey, here's something that might help others when doing balusters... when I did mine, I created a double sided spacer.... two short 3 9/16" wide spacer blocks (made from 5/4 decking) .. one sits on the deck for the lower rail spacing, the other is at the top rail height... held together by a 34" 1x3, then I flipped it around and screwed in two 3 3/4" spacers. I stapled a bit of folded over flashing over the top with the sides bent in about 1.5" out on each side...so I can just put it on the deck next to a baluster and the flashing catches the top rail and holds it in place... made installing them all very easy... the drill never left my hand as I put them in. I did pre-drill all the holes though and stuck the screws in the holes before I started... so it was basically put up the spacer jig, position the baluster next to it...drill in screws, move spacer to other side, add baluster, drill in screws, repeat for that run.
 
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Old 10-14-08, 05:01 AM
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The 3-2 groups are 1 1/2" apart. I use a baluster to do the spacing. Then there is a 4" space between the groups of 3-2. With no soliciting intended and no work accepted (that's a disclaimer) go to http://www.chandlerscarpentry.com/projectsthree.html and scroll down the page. You will be able to see the the design on one of the deck balustrades.
 
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Old 10-15-08, 05:06 AM
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Now I see.. yep, I agree its pretty cool looking. gotta tell ya, I went to your site a while back... thought it was a pretty nice site .. even stared at those particular pics for a while (the rock work, the railings...) and to be honest, I didn't notice the different configuration... D'oh... I must be as blind as my wife says I am (btw, who's maiden name is Chandler, and who's grandfather, father, and brother were/are carpenters or house builders).
 
 

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