Blocking corners of wrap around (half octogon) box step
#1
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Blocking corners of wrap around (half octogon) box step
I built my deck last summer, but never got around to doing the last step down to the ground. I build the deck with the corner notched off (so it is like three sides of an octogon). It is just one step down to the ground, so I am doing a box step. I will miter cut the decking at 22.5 degrees so that the angles are flush around the corner.
My particular question is regarding the blocking that I am putting in the box frame. I will want to screw down the decking at the joint so that no edges pop up. How will I put the blocking under this joint? Should I miter cut the end of the 2x6 so that it fits snuggly into the angle, or can I just cut it off straight (which would leave a little gap)? Here is an image of the two options I see.
Thanks,
~john
My particular question is regarding the blocking that I am putting in the box frame. I will want to screw down the decking at the joint so that no edges pop up. How will I put the blocking under this joint? Should I miter cut the end of the 2x6 so that it fits snuggly into the angle, or can I just cut it off straight (which would leave a little gap)? Here is an image of the two options I see.
Thanks,
~john
#2
Hi John --
Don't use a single 2X6 -- use two 2x6's side by side at each angle, each cut with the 45 degree ends. (It took me a couple of minutes to orient your drawings, but that is looking down from the top.)
Don't use a single 2X6 -- use two 2x6's side by side at each angle, each cut with the 45 degree ends. (It took me a couple of minutes to orient your drawings, but that is looking down from the top.)
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2x6 frame not high enough for box step
Ok, I actually sat down and planned this out, and it looks like I have a new challenge. I had been planning on using the example at DECKPLANS.com | How to Build a Box Step to build this. That has me making the frame out of 2x6's. The deck that I built is using 1"x4" and 1"x6" Tigerwood decking. The stuff is really strong, so the boards can be thin. If I want the step to be 7.5," then the 2x6's won't cut it for me.
I uploaded my working plan. You can see that I end up with a 1 3/4" gap. I guess I could just put 2x4's over it, but that is more like 1.5" and feels hacky.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks,
~john
I uploaded my working plan. You can see that I end up with a 1 3/4" gap. I guess I could just put 2x4's over it, but that is more like 1.5" and feels hacky.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks,
~john
#7
John,
It can be made to work in one of two ways.
You have 15-1/2" of total rise from the ground to the top of the deck. Therefore you need the top of the tread to be 7-3/4" above grade and 7-3/4" below the top of the deck. Your box need to be 7" tall since you are using decking that is 3/4" thick.
Rip 2X8's to 7" to build the box, or build the box with 2X6's and lay a 2X flat either under it or on top of it.
Doing this will also give you two equal rises. The 1/2" variation that your drawing shows is too much, especially since it will be so easy to make them equal.
It can be made to work in one of two ways.
You have 15-1/2" of total rise from the ground to the top of the deck. Therefore you need the top of the tread to be 7-3/4" above grade and 7-3/4" below the top of the deck. Your box need to be 7" tall since you are using decking that is 3/4" thick.
Rip 2X8's to 7" to build the box, or build the box with 2X6's and lay a 2X flat either under it or on top of it.
Doing this will also give you two equal rises. The 1/2" variation that your drawing shows is too much, especially since it will be so easy to make them equal.