porch choices

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Old 08-31-09, 09:27 AM
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porch choices

I am hoping for direction on replacing porch floor. This is a turn-of-the-century Victorian. A large front porch that is the width of the house with a roof and big shade trees.

Contractors have difference solutions. Which is best?

1. pressure treated decking - paint just top next summer.

2. tongue & groove - mahogany. Should the wood be painted all sides or just top OK?

3. It seems for T&G that mahogany is much preferred over pine?

Paint per all is to be Cabot oil primer, then two coats Cabot latex solid stain.
 
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Old 08-31-09, 01:15 PM
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Given the choices that you have mentioned, I would go with the T&G mahogany. I would paint just the top, since that would also seal the joints, and the bottom isn't exposed to the elements.

Additional choices which I would include looking at would be a composite or Azek. Either can be had as a T&G product, although not all composite mfgrs. offer it. That would eliminate any painting, EVER!
 
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Old 08-31-09, 01:39 PM
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Someone said I would have cupping of the floor boards if I did not paint all sides of the boards.

Someone else said you don't want to paint the bottom so any moisture can escape.

Does any of that make sense - do I have to worry about "cupping"? Again, north NJ and the floor is very high with good circulation.
 
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Old 08-31-09, 01:41 PM
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Personally..I can't imagine painting mahogany..I always thought that was more of a clear stain type wood. Solid stain/paint..kinda the same to me. If its not letting the grain show, same-oh same-oh.

If you plan to cover it up, why spend more and lose more rainforest? No, not a tree hugger..just don't see the point. And if its T&G, you will have to pre stain/seal edges before install.
 
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Old 08-31-09, 01:50 PM
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Wood has a grain. Painting all of the sides will probably REDUCE the likeihood of cupping, but it certainly won't eliminate the possibility of it happening.

If I went with the mahogany, I would use a clear stain or sealer. Like GG said, WHY spend all the extra $$ for mahogany, then cover it with paint??
 
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Old 08-31-09, 03:17 PM
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I am trying to prevent reoccurance of the wood rot I now have, and also lower maintenance.

I am told the primer / solid stain will last longer than clear stain, as a clear stain would have to be redone every 6 months to a year. A solid stain could last a few years.

What would you recommend? Is not mahogany a more solid wood that would last longer, less likely to rot than pine or ?

And can one prevent cupping - what is that anyway, a sort of warping?
 
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Old 08-31-09, 03:33 PM
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You want to prevent the rot -- also lower maintenance ... all the more reason to look at a composite or Azek.

When I build a deck, I cover the joist tops with Vycor. The joist tops are the first thing that will rot on a deck -- a flat surface with no way for the water and debris to get off of them. Protect them and you will double the life of the framing.

As far as twisting, cupping, bending, twisting, etc., a composite (or Azek) can't do tht -- they have no grain.

As far as cost, they are equal to or probably less than mahogany.
 
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Old 09-11-09, 06:26 AM
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Thanks, everyone for your advice. I took a cue from you and found a great local well-known contractor who specializes in Azek. I am going with that. Also the Azek website is very educational. To me it is a no-brainer to go with a non-wood product (not using wood or composite) when I think about it. I do know a friend of mine is a wood-only person, but I sure like the no maintenance route. And Azek looks great and is not as expensive as I imagined it might be. Consumer Reports likes it too.

He gave me quotes on Azek and also wood to compare. In comparing the project cost to other contractors (wood), he also gave me a good discount for both his options. He was very confident and I felt immediately he would provide excellent work. He understood I am unemployed and he said he needed to keep his team working. So a deal was born.

Thanks again.
 
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