Treated wood Deck Preparation
#1
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Treated wood Deck Preparation
3 years ago I stained a new deck with Sikkens Translucent. Last year I applied a coat of Waterproof. Need to restain. Verticles in good shape. Horizontals are smooth and show little or no stain. Handrails a little rough. Splash test identifies a only a few areas where water doesn't penetrate in a few seconds. Having heard that sanding closes pores and Cleaners/Brighteners open them,
Questions:
1-Should I lightly sand deck to remove any areas of waterproof & stain and smooth handrails BEFORE using Cleaner and Brightener or AFTER?
2-Should I sand at all or only use Cleaner/Brightener?
Questions:
1-Should I lightly sand deck to remove any areas of waterproof & stain and smooth handrails BEFORE using Cleaner and Brightener or AFTER?
2-Should I sand at all or only use Cleaner/Brightener?
#2
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Welcome to the forums!
What kind of waterproofer did you apply?
The odds are that washing the deck with some TSP and bleach/water will remove what's left of the waterproofer [especially if it's Thompson's WaterSeal] After cleaning with TSP and bleach - you can better evaluate the need for a deck brightner. I rarely ever do any sanding when restaining a deck although I would sand the handrails a little if they are rough.
What kind of waterproofer did you apply?
The odds are that washing the deck with some TSP and bleach/water will remove what's left of the waterproofer [especially if it's Thompson's WaterSeal] After cleaning with TSP and bleach - you can better evaluate the need for a deck brightner. I rarely ever do any sanding when restaining a deck although I would sand the handrails a little if they are rough.
#3
Except for some minor smoothing on the hand rails if needed, I wouldn't do any sanding on PT wood.
Stain/sealer -- you're going to get what you pay for. Generally, the higher the cost, the higher the quality, and the longer it will last.
Stain/sealer -- you're going to get what you pay for. Generally, the higher the cost, the higher the quality, and the longer it will last.
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Marksr, thanks. The Waterproof was Olympic. I'm trying to stay away from a stripper by using a Cleaner since there is very little Sikkens stain remaining, if any, on the horizontals and I've heard that strippers including TSP/bleach/water are somewhat caustic whereas the Oxegen bleach cleaner is not. But, if I use the TSP formula, I wouldn't also use a Cleaner---correct? Just the Brightener to restore the ph and, regardless of what I use, your recommendation is, no sanding, except lightly on the handrails. Do I sand them before or after the TSP or Cleaner? Thanks again.
#6
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Do your sanding after the cleaning, just a light sanding to knock down the burrs.
I hardly ever use any of the commercially prepared deck cleaners. Bleach/water [and TSP if needed] is cheaper and just as effective. The bleach solution often negates the need for a brightener. Oxygenated bleach is more diy and environmentally friendly but I don't think I've ever used it. Rinsing any run off areas well [before and after] dilutes the cleaner enough so it doesn't cause any damage.
Regular bleach can damage wood fibers so it should never be mixed stronger than 50/50. I usually use 40-50% bleach.
I hardly ever use any of the commercially prepared deck cleaners. Bleach/water [and TSP if needed] is cheaper and just as effective. The bleach solution often negates the need for a brightener. Oxygenated bleach is more diy and environmentally friendly but I don't think I've ever used it. Rinsing any run off areas well [before and after] dilutes the cleaner enough so it doesn't cause any damage.
Regular bleach can damage wood fibers so it should never be mixed stronger than 50/50. I usually use 40-50% bleach.
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Thanks again. Just one more question. The paint store person (27 years experience) said I should use a powerwasher to moisten the deck before applying any cleaner (Defy, or TSP solution),spray it on and rinse off after the cleaner after about 15-20 minutes. He also suggested scrubbing with a deck brush.
A big box store guy (who was very young and had only worked 3 weeks in the Paint dept) says not to use a powerwasher since it can harm wood, don't scrub with brush since the cleaner, not sripper, will do the work, and to use a garden hose to rinse cleaner off. Interestingly, both recommended a Brightener be applied immediately after rinsing the cleaner to assure proper PH.
What do you recommend---powerwash or not?
Thanks.
A big box store guy (who was very young and had only worked 3 weeks in the Paint dept) says not to use a powerwasher since it can harm wood, don't scrub with brush since the cleaner, not sripper, will do the work, and to use a garden hose to rinse cleaner off. Interestingly, both recommended a Brightener be applied immediately after rinsing the cleaner to assure proper PH.
What do you recommend---powerwash or not?
Thanks.
#8
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I use a PWer washer, mainly because it's quicker and I own one. Care must be used with a PWer because too much pressure can chew up the wood If you have a PWer - use it, otherwise a garden hose is fine.
I always wet the wood first, then apply the cleaner, let it set but not dry and then rinse it off. There are times when scrubbing can be beneficial - mainly hard to clean spots. I generally use an old broom if I need to scrub..... my old back doesn't like bending over
I seldom use any brightner so it might want to read the label
I always wet the wood first, then apply the cleaner, let it set but not dry and then rinse it off. There are times when scrubbing can be beneficial - mainly hard to clean spots. I generally use an old broom if I need to scrub..... my old back doesn't like bending over
I seldom use any brightner so it might want to read the label
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marksr,
Thanks for all of your advice, I'll hook up my powerwasher, wet the deck, use the cleaner, try the brightener, scrub a little, PW rinse off, let it dry, sand lightly on the handrails, blow off any sanding dust, apply 1 coat of Sikkens Translucent, let dry, and then, in complete exhaustion, sit on the deck with a freshly made martini knowing that I won't have to do it all again for a while---the deck, not the martini. Getting too old for this stuff.
Sounds like a plan thanks to you.
Thanks for all of your advice, I'll hook up my powerwasher, wet the deck, use the cleaner, try the brightener, scrub a little, PW rinse off, let it dry, sand lightly on the handrails, blow off any sanding dust, apply 1 coat of Sikkens Translucent, let dry, and then, in complete exhaustion, sit on the deck with a freshly made martini knowing that I won't have to do it all again for a while---the deck, not the martini. Getting too old for this stuff.
Sounds like a plan thanks to you.