Best filler for cracks wider than 1/4" (for wood)


  #1  
Old 05-05-10, 11:56 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 15
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Question Best filler for cracks wider than 1/4" (for wood)

Yes, I always try to avoid large spaces or seams, but sometimes they happen.

I know that for a wood project like a shed, narrower gaps can be filled with a good quality exterior caulk before painting, but what about larger cracks? I'd like to not do the "just pump a whole tube of caulk into it" routine.

I'm aware of products like Durham's Water Putty and such, but they seem really brittle and easy to crack if there's expansion later.

What do most people use in situations like this?

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 05-05-10, 01:57 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 48,158
Received 407 Votes on 363 Posts
What kind of crack are you needing to fill?

You can use a 'backer rod' to stuff in wide voids and then caulk it.
 
  #3  
Old 05-05-10, 02:23 PM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 15
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by marksr View Post
What kind of crack are you needing to fill?

You can use a 'backer rod' to stuff in wide voids and then caulk it.
I'm going to be putting up some 1x4 as a fascia board along the edges of some 2x4 rafters. I have a feeling there will be some gaps where the two ends of the 1x4's meet.

But was also curious as to what's available for things like that in general. Anything besides caulk stay flexible after it dries?
 
  #4  
Old 05-05-10, 02:41 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 48,158
Received 407 Votes on 363 Posts
Caulking would be best! ..... and as long as you keep on top of your measurements - you shouldn't have any wide gaps to caulk
 
  #5  
Old 05-05-10, 03:15 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,112
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Remember also...wood dries out. Here in AZ even kiln dried whitewood shrinks a ton when used outside. PT and cedar even worse. Let it acclimate, measure well, and butt it tight as you can.
 
  #6  
Old 05-05-10, 04:30 PM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,581
Received 13 Votes on 11 Posts
The ends should be beveled 45 not cut 90. If you have a miter saw that will give you a good 90 cross cut with the 45 bevel. If you use a circular saw the bevel can be set to 45 and use a cut off square to guide the saw so it is a good, straight cut. The bevel will to some extent hide a gap. I also like to put caulk on the ends before butting then wipe off the excess caulk that squeezes out off with a damp sponge.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 05-05-10 at 04:49 PM.
  #7  
Old 05-05-10, 05:32 PM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 15
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ray2047 View Post
The ends should be beveled 45 not cut 90. If you have a miter saw that will give you a good 90 cross cut with the 45 bevel. If you use a circular saw the bevel can be set to 45 and use a cut off square to guide the saw so it is a good, straight cut. The bevel will to some extent hide a gap. I also like to put caulk on the ends before butting then wipe off the excess caulk that squeezes out off with a damp sponge.
Thanks for reminding me about the 45 bevel cut. That will help for sure.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: