My Deck Project

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Old 07-13-10, 05:30 PM
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My Deck Project

Here is my design using google sketchup. It was time consuming about 20hr, but kind of fun. I'm not sure it will take me that many hours to build the deck lol.

I have one question. For the concrete pads that are landings can I just expand them back under the deck to support the railing posts that will be extending though the deck at the tops of the stairs, or should I dig separate pilings for them. The pads are 4" thick. For the beam supports I'm using 3' deep concrete piers.



 
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Old 07-13-10, 08:40 PM
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supraman215,

I wouldn't waste the time and expense on all of that extra concrete -- you don't need it.

Simply teminate those posts that you show going to the slabs at the same level as those you show NOT going to the slab. Bolt each of them solidly in both directions at the corner formed by the deck joists and rim joists and they'll be fine.
 
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Old 07-14-10, 05:16 AM
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Overall, your deck plan looks good.

Based on personal preferences, I would consider the following changes:

1. Verify local code compliance as to whether an open side is permitted with an elevated deck since deck height not shown. You may be okay, but easier to verify height in advance than to later find you could have built a lower height and be in compliance if open side is important to you . . . while an adult might not be injured if falling off open side, the code is designed to also protect toddlers whether you have any or not.

2. Eliminate raised concrete pads under deck steps. Use in-ground concrete pads (level to ground) or pavers in front of deck steps, and at area where wheeled trash bins are located. Assuming reasonable use of deck, foot traffic will eventually wear down indentations in ground, and dirt/mud will be tracked onto deck. Sometimes best to hold off until frequent foot traffic shows where the path is created, and a walkway may prove a better long-term choice rather than an apron in front of steps.

3. Eliminate platform step at one deck step; check stairís rise-run as the one w/ platform step looks to have very short steps. There should be labor savings by replicating deck stairs alike rather than customizing each one differently. Verify local code compliance.

4. Where trash bins are located, I would make them unobservable if sitting on deck by using something solid to hide them. Posts at deck steps next to trash bins could either be eliminated as they serve no useful purpose or add rails as you did on other steps. Drawing shows open trash bins . . . if thatís the case, I might build a cover over top of them (or an enclosure) to keep out rain or get some w/ tops unless these are required use by your town. Buying an already made enclosure probably more cost effective than building one. Consider whether flies are a problem at your place as trash bins next to deck may prove to be an annoyance.
 
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Old 07-14-10, 08:38 AM
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Lefty: Thanks for the tip. I'll just bolt them up. I was thining since they are supporting the stairs that I should have extra support there but I like your recommendation better. :-)

Rob R.
1. That's the house side of the deck :-) forgot to mention that.

2. The concrete steps are not raised they just look that way in the drawing since there is no ground you can see the thickness of them. But the surface will be at ground level. I envision them being more support then an actual landing for the stairs on the left side.

3. This is a great observation, for the larger set of stairs the rise of final step is 6.5" while the other ones are 4.5". I'll have to even this out across the steps. However I will keep that final platform step with no railings I like how it looks and I think not having the railings on it all the way to the end makes it seem more inviting. Perhaps I should bring the concrete out a little further on this one.

4. I was thinking the same thing. Trash bins next to the deck when you're sitting out there doesn't sound like too much fun. I was thinking that instead of putting an open railing in front of the trash cans, on the deck side that is, I would put a solid one of some kind. Covering the top is not a great option because then I would have to pull them out to put stuff in each time. Also those stairs will also have railings soon :-) just haven't put them in yet.

Right now the deck you see is 20' wide and 16' long. Depending on the cost difference I'm also thinking of possibly making it 20x20 but I think the cost diff from 16' to 20' 2x12 may be a lot.
 
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Old 07-15-10, 06:37 PM
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The rim joists that the stair stringers are attached to will be what supports the top of the steps.

For extra support, you could extend the posts down, but rather than extending the slab, I would simply install an extra footing for those posts at those points.
 
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Old 07-15-10, 07:41 PM
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I suppose I could turn the rim joist into the support beam. Im using 2x12 SYP joists which can go like 18' unsupported and my deck is only 16'.
 
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Old 07-16-10, 07:08 PM
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Given the span of the rim joists, I would put a post and footing under each rim joist at about the center of each set of steps just for extra support.
 
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Old 07-17-10, 06:03 AM
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My only comment would be to second RobR's comment on the rise and run of the steps(and, of course everything Mike said, too). You need 17-18 united inches for rise and run. If you have that, you just have shallow steps with long runs. Not common, but it just makes for a longer staircase.
 
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Old 07-28-10, 09:00 AM
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I have 18" united rise and run so I'm ok there. For attaching the bottom of the stairs to the concrete pad, what should I use? I know I can use post base connectors but I'd like to use something a little less obtrusive.

Thoughts?
 
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Old 07-28-10, 03:49 PM
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Drilling into a thin pad may not be in your best interest. You may can just set the stringers on a line of PL adhesive. It won't infiltrate the pad and will hold it still. Mike may have a better solution, so hang on.
 
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Old 07-28-10, 09:50 PM
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Framing + railings.





A detail of what i'm doing for the picture frame look.





Should I buy the deck boards like a few weeks in advance so they have time to dry out. so when I put them in they are closer to actual size. I was thinking that it might be a problem if they are just sitting in the driveway and that they might warp as they dry.
 
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Old 07-29-10, 04:29 AM
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Buy them and put them down immediately. You know what will happen if they sit for any time. Some advocate spacing the boards with a 16 penny nail shank. With the wood we have to put up with nowadays, I jam my boards together. Within a week they will already have shrunk to leave at least a 1/4" gap.
 
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Old 07-29-10, 06:39 AM
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Yeah I know what will happen if I let them sit :-) Yeah I was planning on butting them together, no space. What about the ends though? if the sides shrink 1/4" how much space will I have ad the ends after 6 weeks?
 
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Old 07-29-10, 07:00 AM
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Haha, I forgot to lengthen my railings on the short stairs. I moved the railing supports on the main deck in 1.5" to make the rim joist 2 full length 2x12s.

For the railings would it make my job easier to get something like this for the pocket holes?

Kreg MKJ Mini Jig
 
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Old 08-11-10, 07:01 AM
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Sorry no new pics but I made this cool 3, 4, 5 tirangle chart for those trying to make right angles over distances bigger than your average framing square. I think I might laminate it and carry it with me. Not sure what else I should put on it yet though:

15' 0 " 20' 0 " 25' 0 "
12' 0 " 16' 0 " 20' 0 "
10' 0 " 13' 4 " 16' 8 "
7' 5 7/8" 10' 0 " 12' 5 7/8"
6' 0 " 8' 0 " 10' 0 "
5' 0 " 6' 8 " 8' 4 "
3' 9 " 5' 0 " 6' 3 "
3' 0 " 4' 0 " 5' 0 "
2' 5 7/8" 3' 4 " 4' 2 "
2' 0 " 2' 8 " 3' 4 "
1' 8 " 2' 2 5/8" 2' 9 1/4"
1' 5 7/8" 2' 0 " 2' 5 7/8"
1' 3 " 1' 8 " 2' 1 "
1' 3/4" 1' 5 1/8" 1' 9 3/8"

This was made in Excel. Accurate to 1/8" (can you really be more accurate with PT lumber :-) )
 

Last edited by supraman215; 08-11-10 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 08-11-10, 07:05 AM
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^^^^^^ sorry guys I guess the whitespace didn't carry over. You can copy and paste it and then add spaces it's supposed to be 3 columns.
 
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