deck patio ledger flashing

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Old 07-31-10, 04:24 PM
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deck patio ledger flashing

heres the deal...the preivous guy that owned my house didnt put any flashing behind the ledger board He has made the ledger with 2x12 and then there is another 2x12 nailed to that as a frame and that is where my deck stringers are attached.

My question is......it is sealed up pretty good to the house (nailed).

can i leave the ledger board as it and run some z metal flashing over this and then up and behind my siding or does the stringer mounting board and the ledger have to come away from the house to get a piece of straight metal flashing installed behind the whole thing?

I have heard of z metal flashing going over the ledger but i have also heard behind and over.....



I know what i want to do.....but i also think i know what the answer is....

im working on some pics so you know wth im blabbing about
 
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Old 07-31-10, 04:47 PM
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Hopefully these help
 
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Old 07-31-10, 05:22 PM
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let me also say this.

The deck is not up against the cement wall. The house actually comes out from the concrete about 3+ feet.

Not sure if this changes things....

my guess i no.

what a mess.

dude used 14 foot deck boards too. i should have fun trying to find those and haul them. I destroyed 3 of them closest to the house trying to get at the ledger setup. The screws were completely striped on 3/4 of them
 

Last edited by scale21; 07-31-10 at 06:26 PM.
  #4  
Old 07-31-10, 08:24 PM
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You will have to remove the first row of siding, but yes, you can install an L flashing that is long enough to protrude onto the joists. A z-flashing is nice, but that's best installed over a single ledger before any of the joists are installed.

If your L flashing is long enough, you can caulk the bottom of it to the ledger to make durn-sure that nothing will blow back behind.

One caution is that ledgers that are simply nailed onto the house are a giant no-no. Lefty could tell you more about the requirements for attaching ledgers, but if the ledger is only nailed you might want to locate your studs and install some additional ledger lock lags through the ledger and into the studs before you put the new floor boards back on.

Free standing decks where the ledger is spaced away from the siding allow for better drainage behind them and when they are on their own piers you don't have to worry about attaching them to the house at all.
 
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Old 07-31-10, 09:11 PM
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thanks!

if my L flashing is as deep as 2 ledger board......how the heck do i attach my top deck board. Ill have to screw through it to get that top deck board onto the joists / stringers....whatever they are called.

ALso...my first deck board butts up hard against my first piece of cedar siding. It sort of tucks under tight. Should i run a bead of silacone along this wood edge as well or let it alone?

as it sits right now i have a piece of Z flashing that i purchased tonight. It sits up under my siding a good 3 inches and then caps the first Ledger well. This seems like the water that gets that far will run into the seam of the first and second leger piece. Not sure if that woudl be a problem since they are both vertical and green treated. Moisutre sitting in a seam just strikes me as probably wrong.

I may change it up for a larger / wider piece of L flashing as suggested to cover the tops of both ledgers. im heading back to the store in the morning to get more supplies

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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Old 08-01-10, 07:09 AM
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Personally, I wouldn't worry about 1 row of screws piercing the flashing. If you are worried, then what you could do is mark all your screw locations, predrill a series of 3/16" holes through the deck board, then lay the board down where it will go, and chase all your screws with silicone (butter the screw with silicone and then drive it in. This will make a gasket of sorts for the screw. Put some masking tape over the hole if you don't want silicone smeared all over your deck.)

About the first row of siding, like I said, I'd suggest you take that row off to install your flashing, which should be about 3 1/2 x 3 1/2. Then I'd suggest you rip that siding (make it more narrow) so that you will have about 1" of clearance between the siding and the first deck board.

I wouldn't like the idea of flashing only one ledger, for the reasons you mentioned. Where your pieces of flashing overlap be sure you overlap 2-3" and caulk the seam, pressing the next flashing into the sealant.
 
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Old 08-01-10, 07:44 AM
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THank you for the help! Time to go to the home store and gather more stuff
 
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Old 08-01-10, 09:55 AM
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While you're at the store getting the metal to flash it properly, get a box of Ledger Loks as well so you can attach the ledger properly. (They are a Fasten Master product -- you'll find them with the deck screws.) Also get a roll of 4" or wider Vycor and place that on the top of the ledger before you flash it. It will seal the deck screws where they penetrate the flashing.

My prejudice would be to remove the ledger totally and make the deck free-standing, but that would involve digging a row of footings under the existing joists. You probbly don't want to go there until you are replacing the entire deck -- joists, beams and all.
 
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