Old deck joists setting on wall plate


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Old 02-06-11, 12:24 PM
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Old deck joists setting on wall plate

I am wanting to replace or repair my old deck. its about 28' x 12', 8 ft above a concrete porch for the walk out basement. The 2 piece solid beam (4 x 10's) is rotting, I was wanting to replace it and the 4x4 posts with 6x6. The decking also needs replaced. I was debating on replacing the whole thing, since the joists and railing are whats left and the joists may be soft on top in some places and the railing wouldnt pass building codes of today. The deck must have been built with the house in 1972 because the joists set on the wall plate, and the first floor joist is nailed to the ends of the deck joists. On the outside there is the plywood type siding (t111?) around the joists, sealed with caulking.
If I was to replace the deck joists, how would I do that? I am assuming the deck joists are load bearing for the wall above it. I dont know if there's blocks between the joists yet, there's insulation between them and there's only a 1/4" gap between the first floor joist and the wall plate. Also, the posts now set on cast metal bases on the concrete slab, then there's metal angle brackets screwed to the posts and concrete. if I replaced them would I have to dig up the slab and put footers in first? I dont know how thick the slab is but was thinking of using the Simpson post bases with the 1" diameter bolts drilled into the concrete and post.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 02-07-11, 04:26 PM
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The best way to do it is to remove everything & start again. The correct footings have to be installed to the frost line. The way to go these days is free standing, so no ledger board is used & the deck is about 2 inches from the house. L brackets can be used if you want extra support.
The posts that sit on the footings continue about the deck & are used for the railing.

Do you intend to file plans with the building dept?
 
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Old 02-07-11, 08:32 PM
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If I replace everything, I will draw up plans and get a permit. But if i just replace the beam and posts I dont think I need to get a permit, will have to check on that. So, if I have to put footers below frost line (36") for the posts, I'd have to replace the whole concrete porch under the deck? it's 28 x 12 feet also. If I made the deck free standing I would have to put another row of posts and beam on the porch under it, a foot or so from the house, also, it's a walk out basement and would take up space on the porch. Would a building inspector give me tips on how to do this or do I need to consult an engineer or contractor? The plans I draw up will show how the joists are now, and would it help to take pictures inside the house to show how the joists are?
 
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Old 02-08-11, 12:18 PM
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No, you don't have to replace the entire concrete patio to install footings. Rent an electric jack hammer & do it. I installed 18 footings in the same scenario, a few months ago. Install temporary supports first if you don't demolish the existing deck.

If you file with the buildng dept, don't try to draw the plans yourself. Hire a local architect who knows the inspectors. He'll know what to do.
 
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Old 02-10-11, 08:17 PM
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The deck boards are rotted. The beam is rotted. The posts are rotted. I'll go out on a limb and guess that the joists are rotted as well. (THEY are the first thing to go on a deck, so that's not too ahrd to figure!)

Tear it out and start new.

Besides, the deck boards, the posts and the beams are over 90% of the cost of a new deck. You're going to do all of that and keep the old joists??
 
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Old 02-12-11, 12:14 AM
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Heres a diagram of my existing deck, hopefully it will show up. I understand a free standing deck will be safe with the necessary diagonal bracing. The basement wall has a door and 2 windows, the windows will have posts in front of them if I make it free standing.



PANELS, CANVAS, ETC.
 
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Old 02-13-11, 12:04 PM
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Diagram didn't show up. Post spacing is determined by the size of the beam the posts are supporting. The larger the beam, the farther the posts can be spaced apart. Depending on the width of the windows, you may be able to do some adjusting and get the posts out from in front of the windows by going with a larger beam.
 
 

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