Stripping redwood stain + recommended brand for staining deck
#1
03-18-12, 02:28 PM
Stripping redwood stain + recommended brand for staining deck
Hello,
We bought a house a few years ago that has a deck with what looks like a
redwood stain on it. We don't much care for it, and there's very obvious mildew
coming through the stain.
Is it feasible to just sand away the stain and apply a new stain (we want
something much lighter like a chestnut). It's not that large a deck (about 14' by
7' maybe).
Also, what's the best brand of stain to use?
Thanks,
Andy
We bought a house a few years ago that has a deck with what looks like a
redwood stain on it. We don't much care for it, and there's very obvious mildew
coming through the stain.
Is it feasible to just sand away the stain and apply a new stain (we want
something much lighter like a chestnut). It's not that large a deck (about 14' by
7' maybe).
Also, what's the best brand of stain to use?
Thanks,
Andy
#2
03-18-12, 02:45 PM
Meant to also mention I'm considering flipping the main deck boards over, but I'm not sure how hard it would be to get the boards up. Anyone ever done that before? I'm just concerned about breaking the boards. Is there a good technique to get the nails up from above, or is it best to hit the boards from below (which will be a bit of a challenge, as you're only talking maybe 4' of clearance at best).
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks,
Andy
#3
03-19-12, 04:20 AM
I'm not fond of flipping the boards. They should be installed with the crown up and damage is likely with removal..... and you'd still have to deal with the difference from the lack of exposure and nailing every 16"
How to prep the deck depends a lot on what type of stain you intend to use. If you just want to change the color and use a solid stain - cleaning is all that is needed. If you want to use a translucent [toner] or semi-transparent stain - you'd need to strip the current stain. IMO using a chemical stripper would be better than sanding. In order to sand you'd need to countersink all the nails/screws and would still need more sandpaper than sanding a comparable size interior hardwood floor.
The way I like to clean/prep a deck for stain is to wet it down and then apply a bleach/water solution [never stronger than 50%] with a pump up garden sprayer, let it set but not dry and then rinse with a pressure washer. A garden hose can be substituted for the PWer.
You'll find your best stains [as well as any other coatings] at your local paint store, not a paint dept in a bigger store.
How to prep the deck depends a lot on what type of stain you intend to use. If you just want to change the color and use a solid stain - cleaning is all that is needed. If you want to use a translucent [toner] or semi-transparent stain - you'd need to strip the current stain. IMO using a chemical stripper would be better than sanding. In order to sand you'd need to countersink all the nails/screws and would still need more sandpaper than sanding a comparable size interior hardwood floor.
The way I like to clean/prep a deck for stain is to wet it down and then apply a bleach/water solution [never stronger than 50%] with a pump up garden sprayer, let it set but not dry and then rinse with a pressure washer. A garden hose can be substituted for the PWer.
You'll find your best stains [as well as any other coatings] at your local paint store, not a paint dept in a bigger store.
#4
03-19-12, 06:31 AM
Mark, thanks for your reply. I thought I had read somewhere that using bleach wasn't recommended, as it can damage the wood. Is that not been your experience? We're looking to put a lighter color on it (something like a chestnut). So, I'm guessing we should strip off what's on there now, correct?
Also, I've heard the terms "stain" and "paint" when referring to painting a deck. Are these terms interchangeable, or is there a difference? If so, which is better?
thanks,
Andy
Also, I've heard the terms "stain" and "paint" when referring to painting a deck. Are these terms interchangeable, or is there a difference? If so, which is better?
thanks,
Andy
#5
03-19-12, 08:33 AM
A diluted bleach mixture will have little affect on the wood, as long as you don't get it too strong, and as long as you don't let it dry on the deck. Be careful with it though -- it can destroy surrounding landscaping.
Paint is paint, and stain is stain. They are not one in the same.
Stain comes in several types, ranging from tranparent to solid. Transparent will let you see the underlying wood, only changing it's color, wheras with a solid, you can see the grain of the wood but the color will look more like paint. Generally speaking, solid stains offer more UV protection to the wood and will last longer.
I'm not a fan of flipping the boards. By the time that's done, the nail/screw holes are usually larger than the screws you re-install the boards with and the boards can't be held tightly in place. If you install the screws in new holes, you leave the old holes exposed. That gives a whole new meaning to the word "ugly"!!
Paint is paint, and stain is stain. They are not one in the same.
Stain comes in several types, ranging from tranparent to solid. Transparent will let you see the underlying wood, only changing it's color, wheras with a solid, you can see the grain of the wood but the color will look more like paint. Generally speaking, solid stains offer more UV protection to the wood and will last longer.
I'm not a fan of flipping the boards. By the time that's done, the nail/screw holes are usually larger than the screws you re-install the boards with and the boards can't be held tightly in place. If you install the screws in new holes, you leave the old holes exposed. That gives a whole new meaning to the word "ugly"!!
#6
03-19-12, 09:52 AM
Thanks lefty. The boards are in ok shape, but not the best, so I think I'll go more towards the solid to (hopefully) hide some of the imperfections. I'll do a test with the bleach on an inconspicuous spot to see how well it lifts the redwood stain.
Andy
Andy
#7
03-19-12, 10:20 AM
Bleach is a cheap effective product for cleaning exterior wood BUT it must never be used stronger than 50/50 and needs to be rinsed off. I suspect if you get much less than 30% bleach it's cleaning ability will start to disappear. There is a bleach alternative that can be used to clean decks - it won't harm the wood or any nearby vegetation..... but it's more expensive and I've never seen the need to spend the extra money. Keeping it wet and rinsing well usually prevents any harm to the nearby vegetation when using bleach.
Bleach shouldn't lift the stain, it's more for removing any mildew. TSP does a great job of cleaning wood prior to painting/staining but isn't all that effective on mildew/mold. TSP and bleach can be mixed together but the mixture needs to be at least 50% water. The current stain [provided it's adhered well] doesn't need to b e removed if you intend to use a solid stain.
Sometimes staining is referred to as painting - the application is similar but the coating is different.
Bleach shouldn't lift the stain, it's more for removing any mildew. TSP does a great job of cleaning wood prior to painting/staining but isn't all that effective on mildew/mold. TSP and bleach can be mixed together but the mixture needs to be at least 50% water. The current stain [provided it's adhered well] doesn't need to b e removed if you intend to use a solid stain.
Sometimes staining is referred to as painting - the application is similar but the coating is different.
#8
03-21-12, 03:52 PM
Group Moderator
IMO, solid body stains are the best choice on older decks, semi-transparents are better on newer ones.
Like Mark, I use a 50/50 bleach/water solution to clean my deck.
Like Mark, I use a 50/50 bleach/water solution to clean my deck.
