Need advice on deck support repairs <pics>


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Old 05-12-12, 06:26 PM
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Need advice on deck support repairs <pics>

Hi All,

We bought a house late 2011, knowing full well that the deck needed repairs (it was the only house in the area with a decent in-law apartment, which we needed).

We can't afford to replace the deck - so for now, I'd like to fix the supporting structure so that it is safer and we can at least get some use out of it until we can afford to rebuild.

It's a fairly large deck as you can see in the pictures. As far as I know, it was built at the same time of the house (1987). If it matters, I live in CT - nowhere near the ocean though.

Here are the things I am planning to do to help. I am looking for any advice that you can give based on the pictures.

1) The deck is only nailed to the house. Since the basement is unfinished, and I can get to the rim joist, I plan on bolting the deck to the house using deck-lok brackets.
I will probably use some kilz paint on the outside too - I do see some flashing used but an unsure how protected the rim joist is.

2) I am replacing all of the supports with 6x6 posts. I will use the existing cement footings - the current posts just sit on top of them. I will either get bottom caps for the 6x6 posts or drill into the footings and attached some sort of galvanized bracket. Any thoughts on this?

3) I will add joist hangers, hurricane ties, etc. to try to shore up the structure.

4) I am leaving the rails and current floor boards. Can't afford to replace em right now. I will add brackets to those as well where needed to firm it up.

Here are the pics:

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I do have someone who is helping me that is far more knowledgeable than I am. That said, I'd appreciate any further advice you can give me based on the pictures as well as my plans.

Thanks,
Andrew
 
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Old 05-12-12, 06:29 PM
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I probably should also say that the deck is about 6 feet off the ground at it's highest point.

It's about 600-800 sq ft total size (haven't measured it yet, and it's now dark out).

Is there anything else I should think about doing to repair the deck while we're at it?
 

Last edited by andrewsi; 05-12-12 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 05-13-12, 02:53 AM
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1) Dek locks are a little expensive, where carriage bolts with washers on both ends through into the unfinished rim area spaced every 3' would suffice. Note the washer on the head side will need to be larger to accommodate the square in the head.
2)Use these: Product Category: Post/Column Bases for your base.
3) Yeah, one joist hanger doesn't make a deck Add as necessary, including the skewed one.
4)No pix of those, so do it safely.

Make a repour of a footing where they have that cripple holding up the world, jack the deck up and let it back down on a vertical support. You have one problem....you can't attach a deck to a cantilever. You will need to independently vertically support that portion to new footings and a post and beam set up. I have never seen a deck supported directly on top of a monolithic wall like that. Usually the rim joist is sitting proud of the concrete. With that said, I would be concerned with flashing. It may help to remove the deck board closest to the house and inspect it, posting pictures here if you want.
 
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Old 05-13-12, 06:45 PM
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I agree w/ chandler, especially getting rid of the ledger attachment at the house's cantilever, replacing with a free-standing arrangement on new columns and footings. It will require another main beam running the full length, not quite as beefy as the middle beam (it will only carry half the load of the middle one). As an interim measure, I'd also suggest stiffening up the main beam's splice (at the column location)--center your new 6 x 6 column/bracket on the footing, then use a flat 2 x 6 about 2' long on top of it, to provide more beam bearing onto the column. I'd also sister a few 2 x 10s on each side of the beam splice, using through carriage bolts to tie things together. Doing so will stiffen the main beam by making it continuous instead of separate simple spans. Some carriage bolts snugged up with heavy plate washers at all beam "warp" locations wouldn't hurt, either (i.e., beam photo, at end). Doing so will make the beam act more as a unit instead of 3 separate members.

Needless to say, use all pressure treated members. And dress any cuts with a strong preservative before buttoning things up.
 
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Old 05-14-12, 04:55 AM
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Just wanted to drop in and say thanks - I'll post some more pictures later, I have a couple of questions on what you said that they might help clear up.

Take care,
Andrew
 
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Old 05-26-12, 01:19 PM
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This may help

I don't know, but this may help you. I do hope it helps you.


how to replace boards on a deck with Bobby The Builder - YouTube
 
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Old 05-29-12, 08:45 AM
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Doh! Video removed by user.
 
 

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