how to prepare old deck for semi-transparent stain?

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Old 06-27-12, 04:59 AM
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how to prepare old deck for semi-transparent stain?

already tried oxygenated bleach with scrubbing, then Mold Armor, the a Behr deck conditioner/brightener with sodium hypochlorite; several applications each, but solid stain remains along with some mildew. Ive been recommended to use TSP and bleach for round 4...Will TSP and bleach work any better? and must all solid stain be removed before applying semi-transparent?
thanks!
 
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Old 06-27-12, 05:04 AM
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How old is your deck? could you post a few pics? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

99% of the solid stain will need to be removed in order for a semi-transparent stain to look right. A bleach/water solution is good for cleaning especially if mildew is present. TSP is a great detergent for exterior cleaning. I often mix the two when cleaning decks/exteriors for stain/paint.
 
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Old 06-27-12, 06:47 AM
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Personally, I lean toward solid body stains on old decks in the first place and given this one already had a solid stain, that's definitely what I would use.
 
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Old 06-27-12, 06:13 PM
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pictures of deck

ok here's pics...this deck is a long way from 99% bare. i'd say maybe 15%.
rails are latex paint. deck is solid stain; latex i believe. i've been warned against solid stain, which only lasted one winter before peeling. but this deck has had multiple applications each of oxyclean, Behr conditioner/brightener with sodium hypochlorite, etc. thanks
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Old 06-27-12, 10:10 PM
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As long as all of the attachment screws are recessed, I'd be tempted to hit it with a floor sander. The areas under the handrail would need to be done with hand sanders, unless you remove and replace the railing.

Just remember, pdoyle (aka deck slave)--the clock is ticking, days are getting shorter, and summer is winding down.
 
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Old 06-28-12, 04:37 AM
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Who warned you against a solid stain?

Usually a solid stain will last longer than semi-transparent or translucent stains. Prep is important but it's also important to use a quality stain. Generally the coatings found at a big box paint dept are stocked more for low price than quality. Your local paint store will have quality stains, just make sure you buy their best because they also carry cheap coatings like the big box does.

If you really want to go with semi-transparent you'll need to do as BridgeMan suggest - sand the deck down to fresh wood.
 
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Old 06-28-12, 06:39 AM
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All other things being equal, you should get more life out of a solid body stain than a semi-transparent. If you had peeling after a year, I think there was something wrong with the application or you used an inferior product.
 
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Old 07-15-12, 08:26 AM
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if you have an old deck next to a new deck (figure about 14 years of age difference), what would be the best product to paint or stain to make them look uniform?
 
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Old 07-15-12, 01:03 PM
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with an old deck involved; unless you can remove all finish/dirt/ mildew down to bare wood;
seems solid stain is the best and only option.
I spent more time on prep this time around, and used solid; kept traffic off it for several days.
thanks for all the advice from the forum!
pdoyle aka deck slave
 
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Old 07-16-12, 03:22 AM
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I don't think you'll ever get a new deck to match an old one next to it. Solid stain will show the least. While the color will be good match the old deck will show signs of weathering that will be different from the new deck.
 
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Old 07-16-12, 08:00 AM
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Paint will make them look most similar but I wouldn't paint a deck. Solid body stain, as previously mentioned, would be my choice.
 
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Old 07-16-12, 07:06 PM
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Thanks guys. The old deck is in pretty bare shape so I will give it a try with solid stain.
 
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