Improving outdoor stairs
#1
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Improving outdoor stairs
I have a set of wood stairs leading to a side entrance. Stairs are approximately six feet wide with a handrail in the middle and right hand side. Left side is butted against the side of the house.
Since only the right side leads to a door (between the handrails) and the left side simply goes into a wall, I have half a mind to move the left stringer in between the middle and right one, and just have steps that lead to the door.
Because the steps are uncovered, they get slippery in the rain and snow. I'd like to try to fix that problem. Options as I see them are;
1) run a circular saw lengthwise through each tread so water has a much better way to drain.
2) and/or use some sand-filled paint to add texture to the treads
3) move the above-mentioned stringer and put in new steps
3a) composite?
3b) two pressure treated 2x6s so water can drain (as in #1)?
Any observations or suggestions for this project?
Since only the right side leads to a door (between the handrails) and the left side simply goes into a wall, I have half a mind to move the left stringer in between the middle and right one, and just have steps that lead to the door.
Because the steps are uncovered, they get slippery in the rain and snow. I'd like to try to fix that problem. Options as I see them are;
1) run a circular saw lengthwise through each tread so water has a much better way to drain.
2) and/or use some sand-filled paint to add texture to the treads
3) move the above-mentioned stringer and put in new steps
3a) composite?
3b) two pressure treated 2x6s so water can drain (as in #1)?
Any observations or suggestions for this project?
#2
If you only have three stringers on a 6' wide set of steps, you're already in trouble. If you leave the steps as they are, you need a stringer on both middles. If you modify it to 3' wide, yes, move the other stringer to the middle and support it properly.
1) Nope. It won't help. Your wood is cupped and is retaining water.
2) Sand filled paint is a good additive.
3) Move the stringer.
3a) Up to you as far as decoration goes. It won't help in the snow.
3b) Yes, 2 ea 2x6 with a slight space between will work fine.
Of course I was working this blind, as only you can see the steps. If you want to post pictures, please do so.
1) Nope. It won't help. Your wood is cupped and is retaining water.
2) Sand filled paint is a good additive.
3) Move the stringer.
3a) Up to you as far as decoration goes. It won't help in the snow.
3b) Yes, 2 ea 2x6 with a slight space between will work fine.
Of course I was working this blind, as only you can see the steps. If you want to post pictures, please do so.
#3
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Grit added to paint helps a lot BUT it wears off..... sooner than the paint does. Not trying to discourage you from using the sand additive, just want you to be informed that it will wear away with traffic.
#5
How would you run the saw all the way through the 2x12? The saw will hit the balustrade before it makes a complete cut. I have seen what Marksr says on the grit. Especially with a darker paint. The tips of the grit look like.....well like the tips of chicken poop, you know (Rory Calhoun in Pure Country). It'll need repainting.
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Here are images of the steps in question. (not sure why they are formatted this way)
The treads measure six feet across at present. After looking that their condition, I think that a replacement of the treads is in order. I'll probably add a riser too.
Question on Code;
We seem to Follow New York State's code. Anyone know the minimum width the steps can be, given that this is a secondary means of egress? If it's 36", I will probably shorten them. If it's 44"+, I'll keep it as is. I want some idea before I bug the code officer again so I can make sure I provide all the information needed.
#7
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I'm not aware of any code that covers the overall width. There are codes that cover the railing and treads. Treads must be a minimum of 10" wide and the rise to the next step can't exceed 8" [11"and 7" is the norm] I don't remember what the railing requirements are but there is a minimum/maximum height and the balusters must be a certain measurement or less apart. Your current handrail wouldn't pass inspection.
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I found nothing in the residence code. The building code (not sure it applies to residences) spoke of specific widths. I've requested information from the local code officer, since his is the only voice that matters.
Just thought someone else might have the info off the top of his head.

#9
Michael. I had envisioned a second story set of steps. Thanks for the pix. IMO, replace it all. No more money than is involved.....3 stringers, 2 ea 2x6x10, 2 4x4x8, and balustrade material and you have a new set of steps. Definitely lose the left half and concentrate the support in the middle.
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Thanks for all the thoughts. I think I'll redo it all (possibly reuse the stringers). I hate having to spend money on a permit just for this, but I do want it done right.
The part at the bottom of the steps creates a large puddle when it rains. This dries up pretty quickly once it stops, but I cannot force people to use a different door just because it's a little we outside. I see no reason to pour new concrete to get it up above the grade of the yard. Any thoughts on a 1" to 2" platform at the bottom of the steps?
Naturesort Bamboo Composite Deck Tiles (8-slat)-N4-OT01 at The Home Depot
Of course, I'll have to use new stringers if I lay down a platform so that the rises for each step are equal.
The part at the bottom of the steps creates a large puddle when it rains. This dries up pretty quickly once it stops, but I cannot force people to use a different door just because it's a little we outside. I see no reason to pour new concrete to get it up above the grade of the yard. Any thoughts on a 1" to 2" platform at the bottom of the steps?
Naturesort Bamboo Composite Deck Tiles (8-slat)-N4-OT01 at The Home Depot
Of course, I'll have to use new stringers if I lay down a platform so that the rises for each step are equal.
#11
Absolutely do the landing. Now, factory cut stringers may not fit in your allotted space. Just remember the total rise and run of steps should be about 17 to 18 united inches. Short rise, longer tread. The old addage of 7:11 is basic. However since you want them all to be the same, if you can only use a 6" riser, then you need to extend your tread to about 12". Experiment with your measurements to see what you come up with.
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Chandler,
Thank you for the 17 to 18 inch statement. I did not come across that in my limited reading on making stairs.
I'll figure out my landing first and do my measurements and calculations after that.
Thank you for the 17 to 18 inch statement. I did not come across that in my limited reading on making stairs.
I'll figure out my landing first and do my measurements and calculations after that.