Looking for input on covered porch over elevated deck build...

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Old 05-30-13, 02:46 PM
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Question Looking for input on covered porch over elevated deck build...

I'm looking to build a covered porch over my elevated deck. Will be redoing the deck at the same time in composite Timbertech decking/railing.

Here are some shots of the situation (clicking on picture should enlarge it):







The current posts are 6x6s, the beam is 2x12 (doubled up), and the joists are 16" OC. Deck should be currently up to code fine, was built and inspected when home builder built house.

I'd like to use vaulted trusses and do an beadboard ceiling. I know I'm going to have to extend the direct-vent (propane) fireplace out through the ceiling of the porch for sure right, no way it'll pass code underneath an open covered porch?
 
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Old 05-30-13, 02:53 PM
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Arrow

Excuse my "crude" drawings.

Yellow - beam
Blue - engineered vaulted truss
red - posts




Could I replace the 2x12s with a treated glulam (for more strength) and use a new one in the rear?
Rosboro Treated Glulam

I know I'll need more posts (probably 2) underneath to support the weight. On the right side I can probably dig and pour a proper pad for the post to sit on, however I'd have to run the beam out past the "outside" edge of the deck to do this. On the left side you have nothing but the large concrete patio pad. Would a post support (like the one pictured below) bolted/anchored in pass?


On the upper posts, can I notch them, and rest them on the same beam the lower ones are sitting on? Like right next to it on the beam?



Attachment at the house isn't going to provide me any support or anything I suppose with just the osb sheathing end wall. Maybe some help from flexing and side wind loads?

I'm in Ohio (45036) so frost depth and snow/wind loads will come into play. I think these values are either correct or darn close:

Ground Snow Load: 20 psf
Flat-Roof Snow Load (Pf): 26.88
Wind Speed (3 sec gust): 90
Wind Exposure: C
Soils: SW, SP, SM, SC, GM, GC
Seismic Zone: B
Frost Depth: 30

http://www.co.warren.oh.us/bldGinsp/...eckdetails.pdf
 

Last edited by R_Willis; 05-30-13 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 05-30-13, 06:08 PM
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OK, wow. A super intense project you have there. As with anything you have to start at the bottom and work up. It appears (and we can't see it all) that your deck posts are bearing on the patio below. They need to be sitting on individual 12" at least x whatever your frost line is (36") deep, and sitting on Simpson Strongtie post bases. If they are, then we'll move on to the next step.

You will need a structural engineer to look over any plans you have, as you need to have vertical weight of the new roof figured in, along with new floor coverings, windows and doors, etc. Your post and beam set up may suffice, but having it "right" will mean more. Your permit department will also need his blessing in order to issue your permits.
 
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Old 06-03-13, 09:15 AM
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Those original front there posts are not resting on the concrete patio, it appears the patio was poured right around 3 sides of them, however. Like I state earlier, I'm sure I'm going to need an additional 2 posts are the rear of the deck and one would HAVE to sit on the concrete patio. That won't cut it?


Concerning a residential structural engineer, where do I go looking for one? ..in the phonebook, online, etc? Do they charge by the hour or what? He isn't going to draw up plans for me, just tell me what would suffice right?
 
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Old 06-03-13, 04:09 PM
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Your posts must sit on a 12"+ footing poured to the depth of your frost line. Placing them on the 3" patio won't cut it. You need to cut out a section of the patio, dig the footing hole, insert the sonotube and pour it, including the post base for the wood to sit on. Do you know if the present posts are on proper footings or not?

Not sure about your area, but you should be able to locate a structural engineer and have him look at your situation and give advice (no drawings) for about $250-300. He won't be there but an hour, so it isn't cheap. You may find a reference for one with your local permit department. His findings will help with your application for your permit, anyway.
 
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