Best wood to avoid warping, for a patio cover.

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-31-13, 10:39 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Best wood to avoid warping, for a patio cover.

I'm going to be building a patio cover. This will be attached to the house on one side, but the other side will have a beam, probably 6"x8"x14'. Rafters will be 4"x6"x11'. Posts will be 8" round. I'm wondering what the best wood to use is, that would result in the least amount of warping. It will probably be Ponderosa Pine or Douglas Fir. Green or dry? I might be able to get KD Doug-Fir locally but I haven't checked. I'd rather not use a glulam or LVL. Suggestions?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 08-01-13, 03:51 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
It's really best to keep posts on the same subject together in the same thread. All your questions and subsequent pictures, etc. help with answering other questions. Mods may move this post to this thread.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/de...tio-cover.html
 
  #3  
Old 08-01-13, 10:28 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
OK, I got it. I figured it was a different subject, with maybe different people who knew more stuff about types of wood.
 
  #4  
Old 08-01-13, 10:23 PM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,196
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
While I don't know much about "types of wood," one thing I do know is that using green wood of any species is likely to result in warping, as the wood dries and reaches its equilibrium moisture content. Using kiln-dried, pressure-treated wood (in your dry climate), should result in minimal warping.
 
  #5  
Old 08-01-13, 11:04 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yeah, out for a walk I spotted what looked like a 4x12 beam, so twisted it looked like the whole patio cover was about to collapse. I'm sure that was built with green wood.
I'm going to check with a local lumber place this weekend to see what they have. I've seen other lumber places (not local) advertise dry DF, so I know it can be found.
 
  #6  
Old 08-02-13, 09:58 AM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,196
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
When I lived in Alb., and put a few additions on houses, I used J.C. Baldridge (up in the N.E. Heights, on Indian School) almost exclusively for my lumber needs. They consistently carried quality stuff, had people who knew lumber, and also provided absolutely free delivery--very handy when you're using 20'+ stock. If they're still there, you might want to check them out.
 
  #7  
Old 08-02-13, 10:08 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks Bridgeman. Baldridge was here for 124 years (since 1881). In 2005 competition from the big box stores cause them to sell it, and it became Stock Building Supply. Now they just sell to pros.
 
  #8  
Old 08-02-13, 11:03 AM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,369
Received 54 Votes on 51 Posts
I would only use PT or something rot resistant like cedar or redwood outside. Wet PT is going to warp, you don't want that. Kiln dried is the best option, IMO.
 
  #9  
Old 08-02-13, 11:18 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I've read that kiln drying only dries the outer 1" or so, which is why you don't often see the larger sizes in KD timbers or lumber larger than 4x. I think they have an RF process (like a microwave oven) that penetrates deeper.
 
  #10  
Old 08-02-13, 02:08 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What about Tru-dry timbers?
Tru-dry
 
  #11  
Old 08-06-13, 12:52 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I plan to have 4x6 rafters bearing on a 4x6 ledger (on the house) on one side and on a 6x8 beam on the other side. The rafters will be lag-screwed through the top of the rafter in to the ledger and beam. The roof slope is 1/2" in 12". Do I need to cut a bird's mouth on the rafter? IRC says I need a 1.5 inch bearing length, which I'm not going to get without the bird's mouth, but I've heard that you don't need it with a 1/2 in 12 slope.
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-13, 11:34 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I found a 6x8 18" DF #1 at a local lumber yard. The guy said it's been sitting outside (covered) for a couple of years and they haven't sold it because one end (about 1 foot of it) is a little deformed. I'm thinking this is perfect if I can get a good price on it, as it's totally dry by now. I only need a 14 footer, and I can just cut off the end(s).

What do you think?
 
  #13  
Old 08-14-13, 03:50 PM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,196
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'd go for it. Especially if you can sweet-talk them into making the end cuts with their huge chop saw for no extra charge. With you keeping the "drops."
 
  #14  
Old 08-15-13, 12:02 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks again BridgeMan. I might also see if I can find somebody to make corbels out of the drops.
 
  #15  
Old 09-04-13, 04:30 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well, I went back to take a look and it has more warp in it than I thought. Maybe 1" at the center, which is a little more than I'd like to deal with. If I could use that as the "crown" that would be cool, but it's on the long side.
Now I'm looking for some good timber. I think what I want is Doug Fir #1&Btr FOHC KD. Now if could just find it.
 
  #16  
Old 09-04-13, 09:49 PM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,196
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Only a 1" camber? In close to 20' long? That's next to nothing, in the real world. Just remember, you're not building a Swiss watch. If the price is right, I wouldn't give up on it.

Here's an easy trick to straighten any timber member having excess camber (or sweep). Simply place the member on blocks near the ends, camber up, then place a significant concentrated load (preferably 200-300 lb. of concrete blocks, scrap steel, even 5-gal. buckets of water) at the center high point. In a short period of time (usually a week or less, depending on the species of wood and its moisture content), the member will deflect downward to the point you want it to be at. Taking it slightly past "level" will account for any residual creep upward after the load is released. You can hasten the process by wetting the bottom of the member occasionally, but letting it dry between wettings.
 
  #17  
Old 09-04-13, 10:36 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks again BridgeMan45. Swiss watch, eh, that's funny. I guess I'll go back and talk to them about it. Since it will be about 7' up, nobody is going to be up there to see it on end like I did. From the ground I guess you wouldn't notice it.

I got a quote today from a place in Portland OR, for a #1&Btr FOHC KD Doug Fir timber, 6x8 14', mill sawn rough. $475 delivered. Yikes.

The green Ponderosa Pine I first looked at was $48 for a 6x8 16' but that thing would probably warp like crazy. Plus, that stuff is ungraded and I have to show grade on the drawings for the permit.
 
  #18  
Old 09-09-13, 11:36 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well I went back to take another look. This time I measured it. 5 1/4 to 5 3/8 on one side and 7 to and 7 1/8 on the other. Seems a little undersized for a dimensional 6x8, even if it is S4S. I may go up to a 8x10 to avoid sag. The calculator I use (WWPA) uses 5.5x7.5 actual for a 6x8.
 
  #19  
Old 02-11-14, 06:38 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
to garya505 your porch cover

Gary I read with interest the patio cover that you built. I live in AZ and I have a similar situation as you. I wonder if you would mind answering a couple of questions.

Thank,

Bob
 
  #20  
Old 02-11-14, 09:41 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 250
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
rjkok - I actually didn't build it yet. It got too late in the year to finish it last fall, so I decided to wait until this spring. Well, here we are. I'm going to start working on the plans soon, and then get the permit. So, your timing is good.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: