How to build deck stairs around a corner
#1
08-11-13, 06:21 PM
How to build deck stairs around a corner
My wife wanted a deck over the patio so I'm building a small deck (15'x13') Menards took the dimensions and printed out a plan, etc... Now I'm building it out of composite lumber. The deck frame built of treated lumber is completed but my wife doesn't want a rail and a small stairway. She wants steps down on along both sides away from the house. I have the standard three step stringers (the deck is only 21 inches high). My question is how to build the steps to go around the corner and still be supported. I put the stair stringers every 16 inches along both sides but am at a loss as to how to tie the two sides together at the corner as a standard stringer is too small. To be clear, I'll have a 13' set of steps on one side and a 15' set of steps on the other. but I don't know how to tied them together at the corner. The home owners association will not allow any bigger size deck to be built. Any suggestions???
#2
08-12-13, 03:20 AM
Welcome to the forums! The more I read the more confused I got. If your deck is only 21" off the ground, how will you fit 13 and 15' steps on it. 15 steps is for a deck at least 9 feet high. 21" will only require 2 or 3 step stringers. It may really help us to see what you have. Can you post a few pictures? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#3
08-12-13, 04:47 AM
Member
Steps
Larry, I think the OP is talking about the width of the steps ( 13 ft & 15 ft). I would like to see a drawing or photo.
If the steps are on two adjoining sides, then you will need a specially constructed diagonal stringer at the corner of the deck where the two sets of steps meet. The run on the corner stringer will be 1.41 times the run of the regular stringers.
If the steps are on two adjoining sides, then you will need a specially constructed diagonal stringer at the corner of the deck where the two sets of steps meet. The run on the corner stringer will be 1.41 times the run of the regular stringers.
#4
08-12-13, 04:49 AM
Group Moderator
I would put a stringer in the corner, at a 45 degree angle, where the two sets of stairs meet. Easiest (with least thinking and math) is to get the standard stringers for your stairs in place then lay boards across and into the corner. Then you can take measurements to cut the corner stringer. If you want to do it with math the rise of your corner stringer will be the same as all the others while the run will be 1.414 times longer.
#5
08-12-13, 04:57 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Going to have to custom cut two new stringers out of pressure treated 2 X 12.
deck stair framing pictures - Bing Images
deck stair framing pictures - Bing Images
#6
08-12-13, 05:20 AM
Thank you very much. I was hoping some one made a standard three step stringer for the corner. I had to build the deck frame around a bay window and after calculating angles and modifying some hanger brackets, I finished it only to find out afterwards that there were specialized brackets for bay windows with the angles already done at Menards but when I bought the Deck Kit they didn't supply any. I though I would save some time and effort by checking to see if these corner stringers were available. Once again, I appreciate your input. Now to try and figure out how to make a stringer 1.414 times longer.
#7
08-12-13, 05:54 AM
Group Moderator
I would use a carpentry square. On the short leg you'll have your rise then on the long leg of the square mark your run with the 1.4. It helps to make a mark on the square so you don't get confused. Then just align the two marks on the edge of your wood and mark along the edge of the square for what you need to cut out.
#8
08-12-13, 02:09 PM
Thank you again all. Pilot, I appreciate your input. I am just starting working with wood and am not sure I'm following you but I have all the equipment so I'll give it a try. I inherited father-in-law's table saw and since then my daughters have bought me a band saw, drill press, radial arm saw, router table, dove tail jig, Paslode framing gun and trim gun and numerous power hand tools, most of which I have never used. I have two son-in-laws to help so maybe they can help figure out how to make the stringers 1.414 larger. I just went and bought 3 2"x12"x 6' to try and cut out a stringer. I have the carpenter square and the little brass hexagon attaching screws. I took a picture but it is too many KB to attach and I don't know how to make is less.
Either way, thank you all for your help.
Either way, thank you all for your help.
#9
08-12-13, 02:44 PM
Member
Getting the longer tread dimension (on a 45-degree skew, instead of normal) is a matter of simple multiplication. If your treads are now 10", the skewed treads will be 10 times 1.414 = 14.14 inches, or just a tad over 14-1/8". That's the value you mark on the stringer to make the tread and rise lines, using the framing square.
For your corner installations, I'd strongly recommend making "doublers" projecting out at the 45 degrees, glued and screwed to form one solid stringer. If you have just a single stringer at each corner, the treads will only have 3/4" of "meat" to land on and attach to at their ends. Also, keep in mind that you may want to bevel cut all of the angled stringers' risers (at 45 degrees, when looking down at them) instead of using normal cuts like the other risers have. Doing so gives you some decent bearing surfaces for attaching the risers, instead of just a point bearing line.
For your corner installations, I'd strongly recommend making "doublers" projecting out at the 45 degrees, glued and screwed to form one solid stringer. If you have just a single stringer at each corner, the treads will only have 3/4" of "meat" to land on and attach to at their ends. Also, keep in mind that you may want to bevel cut all of the angled stringers' risers (at 45 degrees, when looking down at them) instead of using normal cuts like the other risers have. Doing so gives you some decent bearing surfaces for attaching the risers, instead of just a point bearing line.
#11
08-13-13, 10:03 AM
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" I put the stair stringers every 16 inches along both sides but am at a loss as to how to tie the two sides together at the corner as a standard stringer is too small." --------------
Check with YOUR composite manufacturers install guide for stringer spacing; (eg.) Trex requires 12"oc with their 2x6 and 1x6, 9"oc with their "Escapes" line; javascript:showInstallGuides('Installation%20Guide%202013pdf');
Gary
Check with YOUR composite manufacturers install guide for stringer spacing; (eg.) Trex requires 12"oc with their 2x6 and 1x6, 9"oc with their "Escapes" line; javascript:showInstallGuides('Installation%20Guide%202013pdf');
Gary
#12
08-13-13, 03:31 PM
I have another stupid question. Using the information posted below, it appears that I am going to have to make my own over sized stringer. The three step stringers that I've used on both sides of the deck have an eleven inch tread (horizontal step support). This means my corner stringer should have a 15.554 inch tread (11 x 1.414 = 15.554). The 2" x 12" board is not wide enough. Do I glue two boards together? Is there such thing as a 2" x 16" wide board? Do I just move the top tread out 15.554 and leave the others at 11"? Confused again!
#13
08-13-13, 09:24 PM
Member
Don't be so hard on yourself--I suspect the majority of us who like to help people on this forum (by answering their questions) don't think there is any such thing as a "stupid" question.
But I digress. I don't know your riser height, but if I assume for the calculations that it's 7", and crunch the numbers, a 2 x 12 will probably work. The code likes a 5" minimum stringer depth remaining after tread/riser cuts, and yours will be very close to that. Based on nominal width of 11.25" and stringer slope angle of arctan 7 divided by 15.55 = 24.2 degrees. You can check my arithmetic: 11.25" minus 15.55 times sin 24.2 degrees = 11.25 - 6.37 = 4.88". This is just 1/8" too narrow based on a standard 2 x 12, probably not enough to squabble about. If your riser height is 6-1/2" instead of the 7" I presumed, you'll have more than enough width using 2 x 12 stringers.
But I digress. I don't know your riser height, but if I assume for the calculations that it's 7", and crunch the numbers, a 2 x 12 will probably work. The code likes a 5" minimum stringer depth remaining after tread/riser cuts, and yours will be very close to that. Based on nominal width of 11.25" and stringer slope angle of arctan 7 divided by 15.55 = 24.2 degrees. You can check my arithmetic: 11.25" minus 15.55 times sin 24.2 degrees = 11.25 - 6.37 = 4.88". This is just 1/8" too narrow based on a standard 2 x 12, probably not enough to squabble about. If your riser height is 6-1/2" instead of the 7" I presumed, you'll have more than enough width using 2 x 12 stringers.
#15
08-14-13, 02:38 PM
Member
Once you start laying the cut lines out on your 2 x 12 stringers, with a framing square, you should start seeing things fall into place. Just use the same rise as the normal stringers have, but with a tread dimension of 15.55".
#16
08-15-13, 03:05 PM
Another question. Assuming I'm successful in making the double corner stringer and installing it, the composite lumber on the bottom step will be farther then the 16 inch centers on all the other stringers for support. the end of the corner stringer may be 20-24 inches from the last stringer in the row. Won't the step bow? How do I sure up the longer space.
#17
08-25-13, 03:53 PM
Thanks for all the help. We fabricated a couple risers (stringers) for the corner and had to make a couple refining cuts when we attached the composite deck boards but it turned out terrific looking and very solid. I appreciate all your help. Someone should design a corner stringer and paten it and just sit back and collect the royalties or set up a die and cut them yourself and sell them to home improvement stores.
Once again, Thanks to all who helped me.
Once again, Thanks to all who helped me.
