Elevated Covered Deck Post Replace

Old 03-17-14, 04:51 PM
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Elevated Covered Deck Post Replace

I am looking to re-surface an existing deck at my home. As I pulled away the decking it was apparent that the joists are full of dry rot and need to be replaced.

My problem is I am not sure how to replace the two ends of the deck. On each side I have a 6X6 post on the ground. On top of this is a triple bean of 2X12's running 22 feet across the length of the deck. Sitting on top of this beam is a 9 foot 2x6 triple joist running out from the house. Sitting on top of the joist is a second 6X6 post that supports the roof to cover the deck. The deck sits approximately 9 feet off the ground

How would I go about replacing the joists? I assume I need to brace the room, remove the beam, and then replace the joists, but how to I properly brace the roof? Do I need a hydrolic jack? Can I just hammer in a 4X4 temporary post and relive the pressure? Can the temporary post just sit on top of the main 22 foot beam after I take the decking off?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Old 03-18-14, 07:20 AM
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I would build a temporary wall to support the load while you replace the beam. The photo below shows a small simple one that could carry the joists temporarily. The big problem in your case is that the beam you want to replace is also supporting the column and roof load above. I hope someone else will chime in with an idea for that.

Old 03-18-14, 12:13 PM
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I can't get into specifics without a few more close-up pix of exactly how the upper column load path works (how it's attached at its base). But in general, I'd first build the temporary support wall under the rotted joists as suggested by Pilot Dane, then install a temporary support member near the upper-level column. Maybe running a long diagonal brace from the top of that column downward towards the ledger at the house, keeping it out of the way when working at the column's base. Then remove the rotted built-up member at the column base, and install a permanent stub in its place, combined with the new built-up member to be installed for supporting all of the replacement joists.

I would not recommend using a hydraulic floor jack while doing any of this work. Primarily because they are designed to move substantial distances (often more than an inch) with each handle-stroke, something you shouldn't have to do when you're only needing to move things small fractions of an inch. Instead, just wedge-fitting members into place with some persuasion from a 10-lb. maul should work, making sure to use a sacrificial "beater-block" against the member being struck to avoid damaging it.

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