Help with 10x50 deck

This deck will be 10' deep and 50' wide and will be freestanding. I want the decking to run perpendicular to the house so of course my joists will be parallel. I will have 6 built up beams running perpendicular made of 2x10x10 and these beams will rest on top of support posts attached to concrete piers. I can't decide whether to put the floor joists on top of them beams as a drop beam or whether to hang them from the sides of beam flush. The beams will be bolted together with 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts. If I put them on top I will use hurricane ties and if flush I of course will use joist hangers. I wanted to set my support posts in 1' from each edge but if I do this, it will give me a 1 ft joist on each end if I choose to go off side of beams. Is this ok? Also, without a ledger board I'm not sure how to start framing with such a long deck. I built a deck 15 years ago but it wasn't cantilevered so everything was different. Any guidance, tips or advice is appreciated.

 

So, the 10' edge will be attached to the house and the deck extends 50' out from the house. If you have a ledger board you will not have a free standing deck. Part of it will be supported by the house. Contact your building inpsections dept for guidance on what they want to see. Deck construction requirements have changed a lot in 15 years and how the ledger is attached to the house has seen some important changes.

There are several different methods but you will have to somehow flash the ledger where it meets the house. With whatever method you must use galvanized steel and not aluminum flashing as modern pressure treated lumber is corrosive especially to aluminum.

Both methods you mentioned for the joists and beams are acceptable. Butting the joists up to the beams and using joist hangers is probably the most popular as it's easy and it naturally helps "box in" the edge of the deck. It also minimizes the height of the deck if elevation is an issue. With this method it is easier to have your support posts/columns at the beams and not set a foot in.

 

The deck will extend out from the house 10' and will run 50' parallel with the house. I will not be using a ledger board because the deck is freestanding. That's where I have one of my questions: most framing begins at the ledger board and then to the header and rim joist. I'm not sure where to start the framing without the ledger board. The 2nd question is that I really like the look of the beams set in 1' rather than at the edge, but if I do this it leaves the 1 ft space between end beam and rim and I'm unsure if that's ok.

 

Ah, I get it now. By moving your posts in you can also stay away from the house's foundation. Your joists will need to extend to the end of the deck to support the deck boards but the beam can be set back (cantilevered). Many span tables list 24" is the maximum cantilever distance for standard (not Engineered) construction.