Anyone who can help on deck construction?

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-08-14, 06:18 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 124
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Anyone who can help on deck construction?

I'm going to expand my current deck and I need some advice on how best to do it.

I've got a couple ideas and now need more specifics.

What size beams? Glue lam beams or no? How to set the posts that support the beams? How to lay the footings for the framing?

It's an upper level deck and I want to extend it 8 ft. Move a beam and add a beam.

It will be fully framed on the lower level to make it look like part of the house.

Before I get into many more details I want to make sure there are people here who can help. If not I will maybe try to find a forum more specific to decks.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-08-14, 06:22 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
OH, we're here. We don't sleep. It would help to post pictures of the proposed site so we can see what you see. From there, we can advise on the aspects. While you are getting things together, here's some light reading that will keep you on top of code and practice issues. Most of your questions can be answered by this, but we can certainly help with your deck, so fire away.

http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf
 
  #3  
Old 07-08-14, 07:07 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 124
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks.

I'd like start with the actual structural framing. You can see what I currently have, and there is one sketch of what I'm going to have.

I'm not sure yet if I am going to angle the ends, or square them. This is noted with 'option' on the proposed sketch. Let's assume for now I am not going to angle the corners.

The plan is an 8' extension to an existing 12' span at the longest point.

Specs are currently-

2x8 joists 24" OC. Hung to a lag bolted ledger board which should be bolted to the main structure framing.

There is a beam at aprox. 7' out from house. It is supported by three 4x4 posts as illustrated in the sketch. This beam is 18', so the new beam will be the same.

There is then two more posts at the end of the span, and they are simply screwed to the 2x8s.

What I am thinking is this -

Replacing all posts and beams, their locations, etc... Stairs are gone, and won't be replaced.

12' PT 2x8s will extend out 8ft after being sistered to the current 2x8s at a 4' overlap.

Replace current beam with proper beam. But, what beam? 2x8s 24" OC will need some support. The replacement beam will be moved forward to approx. 10', where the the 2x8 extensions are sistered to the current 2x8s.

This replacement beam will be supported with two posts, one on each side of the deck. Beams will be even with rim joists. Posts will be even with even with edge of beam, not inset at all. It will be a drop beam.

A second beam at the farthest span, 20'. Same as first beam. It will be even with rim joist. Posts even with beam (this will allow construction to match the house I could have beams coming out if it's imperative just rather not if I don't have to). Drop beam.

If you look at the real life pictures you'll see I have a patio to deal with. It's also a patio that is not even. I'm thinking the best way is going to be cutting the concrete and doing some sonoform piers or the like.

Hopefully, combined with the pictures and sketches, this will make some sense.


Name:  Current Sketch7_8_14.jpg
Views: 228
Size:  39.4 KB
Name:  Propsed Sketch_7_8_14.jpg
Views: 224
Size:  30.4 KB
Name:  Deck Picture Side View.jpg
Views: 305
Size:  48.7 KB
Name:  Deck Side looking out view.jpg
Views: 238
Size:  43.3 KB
Name:  Deck looking at house view.jpg
Views: 201
Size:  27.7 KB
 
  #4  
Old 07-08-14, 07:14 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 124
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Couple more notes -

The lower level will be a shop complete with electric etc.
The exterior as mentioned above will match the house
The top will be a tongue and groove type of sub-floor material coated with a waterproof, decorative epoxy.
Black iron railing all around the top
It's possible a hot tub will go on the top as well, at some point.
 
  #5  
Old 07-08-14, 07:37 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Pictures and drawings help. I will skim over the comments you made with certain things you may need to correct.
1) Posts may need to be increased to 6x6. Check with local code enforcement officials.
2) Why eliminate stairs. No one wants to be caught high up in the air with a house burning and no way to exit. By code you will need an egress on the back of the house and it must lead to the ground.
3) Your ledgers should be carriage bolted to the rim of the house. In some instances lags are accepted. again check with authorities.
4) How do you propose to waterproof the lower shop area from the deck?
5) If all you have is 24" OC joisting, I'd consider adding joists to bring them closer. I you use plastic such as Trex, you will probably need 12" oc spacing anyway.
6) You will need to core and pour proper footings as a patio does not have the strength to hold a deck.

Like I said, these are just some preliminary observations. Others will be chiming in (if they haven't already beaten me to it by typing faster ) so hang in there.
 
  #6  
Old 07-08-14, 08:06 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 124
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the quick response and suggestions. Let me try to address each one number for number.
  1. I don't see a problem with 6x6 posts. A little more intrusion into the shop area but no big deal there.
  2. We never use the stairs, ever. If anything we block them off so our wiener dogs with back problems don't can't have access to them. There are tons of homes two and three storie high without stairs on the back side of the house, lots of them with decks, so your comment about egress and code confuses me. Maybe a local thing? Guess I could just call the county to verify.
  3. Will do on the lag bolts/carriage bolts.
  4. I added a bit of info after I posted the pictures. The top will have a tongue and groove sub floor of proper material, and that will be epoxied. I'm told there are some neat decorative epoxies for this type of thing, but have not started to investigate. *Think - tropical vacation in very nice hotel type deck flooring*
  5. See above. No decking, no composite. I could still add 2x8s if I had to. I could also add some blocking. Would blocking help?
  6. Yep - that's another section of this thread. Already have come to accept the fact I'll be cutting up the patio in three spots.

What kind of beam would you suggest to go across the joists? They are 18' long.
 

Last edited by stickshift; 07-09-14 at 05:32 AM. Reason: Removed quoting of entire post
  #7  
Old 07-09-14, 03:29 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
I built and decked a deck for a client once with Advantech subflooring, doubled. He wanted to apply a waterproofing to have what you propose. It was basically, from what I understood, like a fiberglas resin with mesh embedded, then more of the resin. Probably 4 coats in all. Then the last coat had some sort of traction stuff built in which took away the "slick" of the resin. If I can, I will find out what he used. It worked fine, and still doesn't leak after 5 years.

You mention an 18' beam. It still will be supported on ends and middle as you have, now, correct? If so, doubled 2x10's should suffice. Don't forget to include proper Simpson Strongtie post-to-beam connections as well as your bases and joist hangers.

I know that link led to a plethora of information, but it will be invaluable should we not address things in the forum, so refer to it as well as your local authority on it.
 
  #8  
Old 07-09-14, 10:56 AM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 124
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Any info you can provide on the Advantech / epoxy combo would be very much helpful! That will be a very important part of this project and there can't be too many ideas or too much information.

RE: the 18' beam. No posts in the middle, just one on each end. Middle posts in a shop just won't work. It's like having that middle post in your garage. Sure you can park your cars but it's a PITA and always in your way.

I know it's going to be possible, it's just going to be a matter of what type and size of beam. Then there is code vs. what will make a stronger deck. From what I've read, correct me if I'm wrong, decks to minimum code sometimes leads to a less than desirable end result.

How much does blocking help?
 

Last edited by pdxrealtor; 07-09-14 at 11:31 AM.
  #9  
Old 07-09-14, 12:47 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Blocking always helps with stability. Are you planning on a continuous 18' beam, or lapped? Can you find 2x12x20 pt? They will need to be doubled at least.

I'll check when I get in this evening on the coating and post results.

Building to code is the very least quality you can get away with legally.
 
  #10  
Old 07-09-14, 02:59 PM
P
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 124
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Continuous is obvious, but what is lapped? Is that like a sistered joist?

I was thinking one solid continuous beam. Open to suggestions.
 
  #11  
Old 07-09-14, 06:50 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 6 Votes on 6 Posts
Solid, continuous is best. Got home too late to call the guy, but will try tomorrow.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: