Lots of questions on patio, septic field, entry door, and skid steer

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Old 09-05-14, 08:37 AM
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Lots of questions on patio, septic field, entry door, and skid steer

Skid Steers: Do you have to have any special type of operators license to use one? What's the typical rental rate per day? My guess is I would probably need it for 1-2 days. I plan to use it for the porch and doing the grading and base laying for a patio that's about 550 sq feet.

Septic Tank & Field: All of the construction is in the back yard, and I think I have to drive about half over my septic tank. I've got an F150 that'll be loaded down with up to 3k pounds of stone/concrete. Should that be a cause for concern?

I need to know where my septic field is buried. Where can I find that info? I have a rough idea because how the grass grows. My worry is that I may be planting trees over it, or worse, my patio may extend over it. Now the patio stone is close to 2" tall, and I planned to do a 4-6" gravel base followed by 1-2" of leveling sand. So, I'd have to go 8-10" deep. How deep are the septic drainage pipes typically buried? I'm in mecklenburg, co, nc if code has anything to do with it?

Patio: My steps for the patio are as follows. Please let me know if I'm missing anything or need to change something:

1) Outline patio with spray paint, twine and stakes.
2) I need some tips on excavating. My back yard slopes toward my house, so it has a very slight grade towards the side of the house. The patio will extend 20' from the house. To keep water from running into the foundation of the house, I was planning to drop 3/4" every 4'. At what level should I start this slope - at the bare ground level, the gravel base level, or when I add leveling sand? I assume I should install this slope at the bare ground level before adding the gravel or leveling sand base?
3) Tamp the ground down with a motorized tamper, and then measure for depth and ensure proper drainage sloping. Then add 4-6" of gravel base, tamping after adding about every 2" of gravel.
4) After gravel base is complete, add 1-2" of leveling sand and ensure slope is correct. Smooth sand by placing two 1" pvc pipes in sand, and using a board to smooth. Then tamp sand down.
5) Install pavers. Should I use some kind of spacer? I assume I should work from the areas closest to the house and work away from the house? Ensure pavers follow slope and are level. Tamp with rubber mallet or add sand if need be.
6) Once pavers should I just used more leveling sand in between them or should I use the bucket of polymeric jointing and polymeric sand?

I think that should complete it for the patio installation step. Any additional tips or advice?

Entry Door: I'm not sure how I should measure the studs for my prehung entry door. Here are the measurements that came on the side of the door. Should I use the rough opening measurements or actual opening measurements? I assume the measurements are for the door frame that the door came prehung on, and not the actual door itself correct? Here's the specifications on the door I got at lowes...


Glass Style Clear
Glass Caming No
Glass Insert Shape/Style Full lite
Brickmould Yes
Door Swing Inswing
Masonry Opening Height (Inches) 82.25
Masonry Opening Width (Inches) 34.5
Lockset Bore Yes
Collection Name N/A
Prefinished No
Primed Yes
Paintable Yes
Caming Option N/A
Construction Insulating core
Glass Insulation Dual-pane insulated glass
Lockset Option Ready for lockset and deadbolt
Look and feel of real woodgrain No
Fire Resistant No
Lowe's Exclusive No
Blinds Between the Glass No
Prefinish Color None
Optional Additions Available Sidelites
Sidelite Width (Inches) 0.0
Transom Shape None
Door Style Full lite
ENERGY STAR Qualified Northern Zone No
ENERGY STAR Qualified North/Central Zone No
ENERGY STAR Qualified South/Central Zone No
ENERGY STAR Qualified Southern Zone No
Iris Technology No
Door Handing Left
Rot-Resistant Frame No
Slab or Prehung Prehung
Hinge Finish Polished brass
Common Height (Inches) 80.0
Common Jamb Width (Inches) 4.563
Common Width (Inches) 32.0
Height (Actual) (Inches) 81.75
Jamb Width (Actual) (Inches) 4.563
Width (Actual) (Inches) 33.5

 
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Old 09-05-14, 04:26 PM
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Use the measurements posted by the door manufacturer. I wouldn't drive 3,000 lbs over a septic tank. The building dept may have plans as to where it is, if the house isn't that old. If not, the top of the tank should be high enough to find it with a probe. How you correct the pitch depends on a lot of things. Some pic might help.

Edit: You should be able to rent a bobcat without a problem.
 
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Old 09-05-14, 04:35 PM
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Where can I find that info? I have a rough idea because how the grass grows. My worry is that I may be planting trees over it, or worse, my patio may extend over it.
Your looking for a heap of trouble.. It may not rear its head now, but what you propose may cost you $30K plus down the road..

Go to the health dept and get the layout of where the septic is.. before you do anything?

Heck, when and if the field fails from lack of a lawn for evaporation, you may be ripping up the new patio to replace... Add that to the $30K ....
 
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Old 09-05-14, 04:44 PM
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I have to drive about half over my septic tank. I've got an F150 that'll be loaded down with up to 3k pounds of stone/concrete. Should that be a cause for concern?
And if the top of the tank dont hold the weight and the F150 falls through add another 10K -15K to replace the tank....
 
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Old 09-06-14, 04:46 AM
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Framing

Masonry Opening Height (Inches) 82.25
Masonry Opening Width (Inches) 34.5
These are the dimensions for the framed rough opening.
 
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Old 09-06-14, 05:38 AM
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An F150 carrying 3'000 pounds??? Yes, that is cause for concern. Your truck will be WAY overloaded. Also you should never drive over any part of your septic system. That includes the tank and leach field. You risk collapsing your tank as others have mentioned and compaction of the leach field is also bad and can be more difficult/expensive to fix.

Never plant trees over a leach field. Never build a deck or patio over a leach field. Their depth does not matter. NEVER do anything over your septic system. If you screw it up you can be in for major expense. If your home is older it's possibly built on a lot that does not have room for a repair field if you screw-up your system which can force you to a more expensive engineered system. Basically don't kill your septic system. You're house is almost worthless without it.
 
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