New deck, did a lot wrong, too flimsy?! Need some hand rail advice

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Old 09-09-14, 06:37 PM
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New deck, did a lot wrong, too flimsy?! Need some hand rail advice

Okay, so I know I did a few things wrong. I'll take the positive and constructive criticisms please. Would love to know what some other people think. Need some pointers on handrails, kind of late in the game, but I guess all I can do is notch a 6x6 on the outside? If so, anyone have recommended cuts for the base and also the decorative top cut?

Deck is 16x36
All posts are 6x6, everything else is 2x12. the only thing missing on the bottom is the completion of the box beam.Name:  20140907_132146.jpg
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Old 09-09-14, 07:18 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I'm not the pro here but I have a question. Did you get the plans approved by your town or is that not required there ? Do you need to get an inspection ?
 
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Old 09-09-14, 07:35 PM
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See page 19. http://www.awc.org/publications/dca/dca6/dca6-12.pdf

You can't notch a 4x4 but I believe they let you notch a 6x6 a maximum of 2".

As an option to notching and through bolting the handrail posts to the exterior of the deck, you can also cut 6x6 holes in the decking and drop them down inside the rim, add blocking on all sides, plumb them up and bolt them. (figure 25 notation... guard rail posts may be located on either side of the outside joist)

(Also see figures 25, 26 regarding hold down anchors)

I would probably just miter the top of the post and dogear the bottom corner to match. Doing this on a miter saw is best, unless you're really good with a skilsaw.
 
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Old 09-09-14, 07:44 PM
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Thanks! Def going to use 6x6 post for hand rails, just like the bulky strong look.

No, no plans were approved and inspected. Just got in the mood, thought it out and consulted a master builder construction builder I knew. Private road back in the woods, and I don't plan on moving.
 
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Old 09-09-14, 08:10 PM
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Also see figure 23 regarding lateral load devices. Most decks are also squared up with some diagonal bracing criss-crossed underneath the deck to prevent it from racking, prior to the installation of the decking.
 
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Old 09-09-14, 08:46 PM
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Could you be more specific regarding how the deck is "too flimsy?" Does it bounce, sway, deflect, or do something else? One questionable thing I see are single 2 x 12s acting as individual beams, supporting 2 x 12 joists. You should consider strengthening the single-member beams.

I would never notch a load-carrying member (such as a railing post), as it creates stress-risers in the member, weakening it under loads, can cause cracking at the re-entrant corners, and also allows water to accumulate where the preservative treatment isn't present, resulting in quicker deterioration. If you follow DCA 6 for post anchoring, you will do all right.
 
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Old 09-10-14, 03:58 AM
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Page 8 of the DCA will explain why your post to beam attachment is incorrect, but it is a little late, now. How are your posts terminated at their bottom? Embedded in concrete? Sitting in post bases on footers?
 
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Old 09-10-14, 06:17 AM
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Its actually not flimsy at all. That was sarcasm on my end. It had SOME sway before putting up the "Y" braces. Once they were bolted in everything feels very very solid. I thought I was going to have to run a V under all the bottom to brace for racking. Not the case. I understand I did a few things wrong especially the lack of over hang to the front. I built it with free standing in mind ( No idea, just can't stand attaching it to the house and screwing that up, rather if the deck fails it doesn't hurt the house as bad as that sounds I suppose)

With this lack of over hang on the front; when I went to ponder out the railing post situation I run into trouble on the corner post. They're in the way of notching the decking board and bolting the 6x6 rail post to the inside of the outer board. To be clear the railing post is going to be a 6x6 so notching it SHOULD be okay correct? The deck is about 10FT up so I just want to make sure.

This is my first deck that wasn't built directly on the ground I posted it on here so I could get a little feedback I appreciate what I've gotten so far the links have been helpful for future reference. Kind of late for a few changes now lol

BridgeMan45,
You're looking at the bottom of an incomplete box beam. Those single 2x12s between the 6x6 post have a 2x8 at the top and soon a 2x8 at the bottom to complete the beam. It was left open incase I felt I needed to brace a bit more. Think that's ok?
 
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Old 09-11-14, 09:47 AM
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Using (completely enclosed) box beams in decks is rarely seen simply because it's not a good idea. That's because you are now creating confined spaces having little if any air circulation, but where water is sure to enter and be trapped. It won't be long before the interiors of your box beams will be thriving mold and fungus colonies, resulting in both an unhealthy environment for deck users and a considerably shorter deck life. Over time, the smell alone could become nasty enough to make just using the deck an unpleasant experience.
 
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Old 09-11-14, 10:36 AM
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It's too bad that you didn't let the posts come up 3' above the deck. They could have been used for the railing. I don't know if you can add posts outside the rim joist, then fill the spaces between them with 2x12s & build the railing.
 
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Old 09-12-14, 06:42 AM
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BridgeMan45,
Wow very valid point. That could of been a horrible mistake. I'm glad the bottom is still off of them.



chandler,
Didn't see your post until it was a little late. Posts in the ground are over 2 feet down. Each post was about 3 bags of 80lb concrete .

Pulpo,
It is too bad. After reading around a lot It appears I wasn't thinking ahead or at all in some cases. I think I found a solution for railing posts. Tension Ties ( Simpson DTT2Z ZMAX), so no notching the posts. At the corners I will just have two 6x6 at either side but up. Should look okay... I hope!

Thanks again for the help and feedback all.
 
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Old 09-15-14, 08:01 PM
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So after finishing up the hand rails. I'm noticing vibration in the deck. No sway at all even if I get three people to shift the same way at the same time no wiggle at all. But if I were to walk across it while someone is standing on the other side they feel it pretty easily. Is this common? Is there any bracing I can do underneath? Say, between the two 2x12's sandwiching the 6x6 post sistering a 2x10 to them? There is no beam sag anywhere, to the eye or a 8ft level. I did not notice the vibration at all until finishing the hand rails.

btw hand rails are 6x6 posts carriage bolted to the outer board with tension ties on the upper bolts (no notches) between them are two 2x4s for baluster mounting and a 2x6 top rail.
 
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