Attached pergola ledger board question

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Old 11-06-14, 01:23 PM
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Attached pergola ledger board question

So I recently put up an attached pergola I purchased as a kit. The whole thing is attached to my concrete block house via a single 2x8 ledger board that is secured by several sleeve anchor bolts. The rafters are notched and each one is secured to the top of the ledger board by a single screw. As all the rafters have a slight amount of twist to them (I haven't installed the top slats yet), I decided to look into joist hangers.

I came across the Simpson Strong-Tie HUS26 joist hanger. Seems to fit the bill, except they recommend doubling up on ledgers in order to use 2-1/2" SD screws.

So this is a bit of a problem, seeing as to how the structure is 90% complete.

Should I:

1. Take down all the rafters, attach a second ledger over the first, and reinstall all the rafters
2. Leave it as is and use 1-1/2" SD screws

I called Simpson and was told that they have not tested this hanger with 1-1/2" screws and recommended I add another ledger so I could use the longer screws.

I'm leaning towards option 1, but that presents another problem: Those sleeve anchors aren't coming out. So I was thinking I could simply leave the current ledger in place, drill sufficiently wide holes in the new ledger over where the current anchors are so that it slips over the anchor ends, then install longer sleeve anchors that will clamp down on both.

Thoughts?

EDIT: On the detail page for the HUS26, it states:

With 2x carrying members, use 10d x 1 1/2" nails into the header and 10d commons into the joist, reduce the load to 0.64 of the table value.
Not sure why they didn't recommend using the 1-1/2" structural screws if 1-1/2" nails are OK...
 

Last edited by AintNoThing; 11-06-14 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 11-06-14, 02:52 PM
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From your description it sounds like that the kit you bought didn't recommend doing anything except what you have already done. The Simpson strong-ties you are planning on using our something to provide additional strength past what the designer of the structure specified. If that's the case then I don't see why just using 1.5" nails or screws would work since neither one of them is going to be providing a lot more strength than the original design. Obviously the option of doubling the header and using the longer screws is the perfect solution but it sounds like it's probably overkill in this case.
 
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Old 11-06-14, 05:43 PM
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Correct, the manufacturer did not call for any additional hardware. The reason I want to do this is because the rafters can be twisted a bit at the ends. I also don't have much confidence in 3 screws providing sufficient uplift resistance.
 
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Old 11-07-14, 12:17 PM
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Solid blocking between rafters near the ends, offset to enable easy installation, can take care of the rafter twisting issue.
 
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