40 x 10ft covered porch

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Old 12-08-14, 07:49 AM
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40 x 10ft covered porch

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I am going to start building in spring. Im in south central pa so I need to account for snowfall and frozen ground ext. any recommendations, adjustment welcome. interested to hear input. will run the length of my small rancher home.Name:  Screen Shot 2014-12-08 at 9.46.56 AM.jpg
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these drawing rough, not final.
 
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Old 12-08-14, 09:43 AM
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Before getting too far along with your project, you'd best contact your local AHJ to see what they want you to do. For starters, I'd consider making it free-standing, instead of drilling holes in a perfectly good exterior wall to attach a ledger system. I would also make sure it conforms with (most of) the requirements of DCA 6, including using 6 x 6 columns instead of the smaller ones you're showing. The characters in your sketch are too fuzzy to clearly see, even when zoomed up, so I may be missing things.

I'd also use concrete instead of cement for the footings.
 
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Old 12-08-14, 09:53 AM
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yes Im only in the planning stages as of now, also going over plans with a contractor. he mentioned i may be over engineering, but with unpredictable amounts of potential snow fall each winter id rather be safe than sorry. all are 6x6 posts minus the 4x4s attached to ledger and 4x6 under center floor joists. i have connected the ledger to my cinderblock foundation rather than have it free standing due to the roof, the less shifting i have due to "freeze, thaw" the better i would think. my posts will be 44in into the ground. it may be hard to see how everything is called out in the legend, this site doesn't allow very large file size attachments.
 
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Old 12-08-14, 09:54 AM
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Is this a single story house?
If so your drawing might be fine for a pergola but not for a pitched roof.
You want that roof at as steep an angle as you can get.
Building the roof so the rafters sit as far as possible upon the house roof, not using a ledger attached to the side of the house is the way to go.
Need to have the post sitting on top of Sono Tubes set below the frost line and sitting on post bases.
Need to notch the sides of the 6 X 6's and double through bolt the outside rim joist or set them on top of them using post caps.
Ceiling joist should be sitting on top of the house top plates, not attached to the old fascia.
Here's the closest picture I could find.
shed style porch roof pictures - Bing Images


Going to need to add a gutter is your going to have that patio sticking out that far beyond the roof line.
 
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Old 12-08-14, 10:01 AM
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one story house.
i will add that this porch will only be 2 1/2 ft above grade at the highest distance. there is a slight grade running down away from the foundation. so at the foundation I'm looking at only a couple inches of ground clearance from ledger.
 
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Old 12-08-14, 10:06 AM
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this houses roof pitch is considerably more steep than mine, but its generally similar to the approach I want to take. however i would have both the roof of house and porch flush.
 
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Old 12-08-14, 10:32 AM
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also, i could reduce the depth dimension of the porch from 10ft to 8ft to get my rafters to stretch up higher on the houses roof to achieve that steeper angle you had mentioned.
One more thing, Im seeing rather conflicting suggestion on setting 6x6 posts in concrete directly due to moisture trapping in the wood= rot. how common is tarring the posts.
 

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Old 12-09-14, 09:40 AM
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I'm not sure where conflicting information is coming from. It's pretty standard to pour concrete footings and attach the posts to them above grade! Tarring the posts won't help a bit because it will still hold the moisture in the post the same as embedding them in concrete does.
 
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Old 12-09-14, 02:12 PM
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You don't need to use a narrower porch width to get the rafters landing higher up on the roof; just use longer rafters. Going with 20-footers at 3/12 pitch should put them adequately higher for a 10'-wide porch. There shouldn't be any noticeable shifting with a free-standing structure at the roof junction, as long as the new footings are adequate and below the frost line. Also, another reason the tarring idea is not a good one is that it will act as a bond-breaker, causing the columns to be loosely embedded in your footing concrete.
 

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Old 12-12-14, 09:20 AM
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Right on. So which brand post anchor is everyone finding to be the most adequate for the job?
Yesterday i saw another little obstacle in my way. my outdoor faucet is in the way, i will have to relocate it just around the corner, which doesn't look like too hard of a job. I located my main and valve, may just change the filter while I'm at it.
 
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